Alternative alternator location, maybe.

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mortiki

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I was doing work on Acadia and was looking at the battery to relocate it to maybe enlarge the fuel tank when it dawned on me that if I removed the battery and electronics to the space between seat and tail light I would have room under the side cover to put an alternator. My question is this. Can you put a shaft extension on the bolt we normally use to turn the motor by hand? I know the stator is driven by the primary chain so it could handle the extra load but how to put an extension on it is my problem.
 
Hmm, interesting idea.
Maybe a collar could go over the bolt head then tie into the alternator shaft.
A small spray of oil does come out that hole, maybe a crank seal of sorts could be fitted on the collar and pressed or threaded into the threaded cap hole.
I wonder what the speed ratio to crank of that bolt is.
 
did not know about the oil. Good to know. Speed is enough for the stator so maybe only need 1 to 1 on an alternator. Next hurtle would be the frame cross member behind it but I think a small shaft would clear it.
 
im sure it would work that way....i dont think the drag could be enough to hurt a threaded shaft into the stator bolt hole then widen to the altinater to drive it as long as everything was line up right .... :mrgreen:
 
That's a real interesting idea. I've been reading on these but didn't like the idea of messing around the timing belts. On a dresser the battery could be relocated to any of the bags. Could even put a bigger battery in the system too.
 
I thought about eliminating the original stator all together and putting a small 1 wire alternator in its place. I know it would involve some machining.. wonder if the flywheel is internally balanced ?
 
joedrum":1vkalblo said:
as long as everything was line up right ....

And THERE'S the problem...getting the alt to line up, and stay in perfect alignment with the stator bolt. ANY flexing/movement out of whack will break something, usually the smallest/weakest link. You would need some sort of CV(constant velocity) coupling...something like a rubber coupling between an electric motor and a pump. This would allow a little movement and not hurt anything.
Or, you could rig some sort of driveshaft/u-joint arrangement. Seems like the front mount set-up would be easier in the long run, but trying to engineer one for the rear might be fun, too. It's an interesting concept. :yes:
 
A good quality socket flex joint or wobble joint might work for slight movement it would have to be something to hold up at speed though no walmart specials. If it moved much you would have to go u joint or cv for the grease.

Could use a Impact universal joint for a socket and maybe make your own boot to hold some grease in it.


or maybe something like this dohicky... Looks like it will handle up to 7 degrees misalignment.

https://www.zorotools.com/g/0005371...ium=organic&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping+Feed

[EDIT]

these are more expensive and only go to about 6000rpm but look like a real universal.
https://www.zorotools.com/g/Universal Joints D-Type-Bored Needle Bearing/00071142/
 
AApple":2zq66h7p said:
And THERE'S the problem...getting the alt to line up, and stay in perfect alignment with the stator bolt. ANY flexing/movement out of whack will break something, usually the smallest/weakest link. You would need some sort of CV(constant velocity) coupling...something like a rubber coupling between an electric motor and a pump. This would allow a little movement and not hurt anything.
Or, you could rig some sort of driveshaft/u-joint arrangement. Seems like the front mount set-up would be easier in the long run, but trying to engineer one for the rear might be fun, too. It's an interesting concept. :yes:

Another option would be to use the space there but mount the alternator to the engine somehow so if there was engine movement the alt would just move with it. Although until i look I think the swingarm might prevent that.
 
I floated a similar idea on NGW and consensus was that it might hurt overall balance. The stator is spinning opposite direction to the crank and most felt that is the Goldwing's magic bullet as to keeping them so balanced as far as torque shift. I still think it could be done if the direction of rotation was right in the alternator. My idea was to remove the stator, modify the case to close it in, and add the alternator where the stator "hump" is now. The only way I could see it done, would be to cut off the hump portion of the case and have a flat plate welded in. Then a bearing with an output shaft set into the plate. A lot of work, but an alternator that would last and be easily replaceable might be worth it. I am not sure what rpm the stator is turning at.
 
I think the very first question that needs to be answered is if the stator spins fast enough.
If not I don't think its an option.
All the same its fun to talk about.

I would think it does spin fast enough since the stator needs that speed.
This has my curiosity up so I'll look at the stator and rear parts i have loose and see if i can figure that out.
 
I wonder if relocating the battery set up to the front where these guys are putting the poorboy system in.. instead, might be easier to access...
 
Well from the research I've done the space available and the current rotor design is the limiting factor in pulling any more than 350 watts from the stator.
I checked in with a motor rewinder and a couple alternator shops who said the same thing.
I'm not saying it can't be done but it looks like the rotor would have to be modified also.
 
If not fast enough then a gear box or pully set up will get it right.

I was thinking of using a small splined coupling with a plate on one end drilled for stator bolt and a splined shafted U joint like the drive-shaft. That would cover all 3 axis of possible movement. If the other end of the shaft was mounted to the cross-member frame you could put a pulley system under the side cover.

If you take the old stator off the bike then the new alternator would put almost same load on motor.
 
I feel strange messing with radiator and timing belts and in the end the alt is hanging out the side up front. I am overly cautious and do not want road debris and water splashing up on it. Also I would like it to look like I do not have one.:) I also love a challenge.
 
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