the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134187#p134187:3pq9afx1 said:

joedrum » Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:10 am[/url]":3pq9afx1]
seems that the drain is a bit to small to work on the 2 barrel carb....seems carb base is 2 5/8 x 4 i/4" base

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darn, so close. It still might work with a slightly bigger plate glued on it. Only the holes need to be over the manifold. Storing for future ref.

I hit the local cycle salvage today to take a shot at finding intakes that would match the Goldwing's bolt holes. I got a couple that could have worked but not 4 the same. However I did find a perfect flange for the Solex. Exactly the right dimensions to mate a Solex 34 carb with a 1" PVC coupler. I mean, like it was made for it, except I will have to enlarge the holes a bit. I guess they are for 6mm and the wing's are 8mm. Now that I have some money from selling the goldwing I got a few weeks ago I'll order the Mikunis tomorrow.

What is the flange for the solex off of?

its always nice to find something to work at the salvage yard

FYI, the flanges from a '77 Suzuki GS750 will bolt right up to the GL head. Probably other early GSs too. And a nice fit for 1 1/4" OD runner.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134276#p134276:1r6dixz0 said:

canuckxxxx » Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:55 am[/url]":1r6dixz0]
FYI, the flanges from a '77 Suzuki GS750 will bolt right up to the GL head. Probably other early GSs too. And a nice fit for 1 1/4" OD runner.

suzuki intake boot

• canuckxxxx
• Feb 23, 2014

Click to expand...

That's a great tip! Any time an available part number works for any design I want to hear about it. When I'm done all this experimenting and data collection I want to put it all in one post for easy future reference. Broken down by runner size, material, and carb. If you've got it, feed it to me. I'll collect the commonly used carb flange patterns too.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134259#p134259:13g4yjiw said:

slabghost » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:48 pm[/url]":13g4yjiw]
What is the flange for the solex off of?

Click to expand...

No clue. It came out of a box of hundreds of unmarked ones. This junk yard is not organized and almost nothing is marked. You just have to dig. It's a pain.

A few years ago I needed a chain guard for my 1980 Suzuki GS450 so I went there in the faint hope of finding something close enough I could adapt to it. "Chain guards are behind the building. Big pile." Wonderful. It's been there so long the ones on the bottom have most likely returned to Mother Earth. I'm not exaggerating. The third one I picked up was marked "80 GS450" and the chrome was 95%. I couldn't believe it and neither could the guys that worked there. I bought lottery tickets on the way home but apparently I'd used up all my luck for that year. On a chain guard. Hey, I'll take it.

Looky what the mailman brought me today!

I'm ashamed of myself for not noticing sooner but the bolt holes are slightly off center of the port. 1 or 2mm.

Will it fit?

Yes! :rocks:
The coupler OD is 1.61" and the ID of the flange is 1.57" (40mm) so it's very snug but it will go in. It expands enough that the supplied hose clamp won't work, it's just 1/8" too short. I don't want to stretch them too much so if I can I'll take it to work to shave a bit off the coupler for a better fit. Now that I have the real items I can adjust my CAD model for the height of the flange. I was guessing that number. The PVC parts should be here any day.

so ...do you think 1 1/2"od will seal up in one of these deals ...?

Maybe. I will try it before I hack anything. There's a raised bead on the ID the shrinks it down a bit so it probably gets really close to 1.5". I'm using 1" which has an OD of 1.3" so I'm using a coupler. It's only needs to have about 1mm cut off to be a nice fit. I'm pretty sure it would work as it is.

I cut the height down as low as possible and the manifold should clear the coolant tubes on top of the engine with a nice gap but I have to measure again to confirm that. While waiting for the pvc parts I'll try to figure out the cable holder.

The flow in these runners isn't going to be very smooth but I think I'll help it by putting a heavy chamfer [bevel] on the ends of the straight pipes. It's not much but it's got to be better than a flat face.

Chamfered seems logical.

These Mikuni manifold flanges fit the OD pf 1-1/4" copper pipe perfectly.


That black and copper is sexy, ain't it?

Correction. That's a 1-1/4" to 1" reducer so it's slightly larger than the OD of pipe but not by much. I'm sure it would seal on pipe.

Tonight I did a bit of surgery on the old flange I got for the Solex. It needed the holes enlarged and a bit shaved off the sides to clear the linkage. It now fits very nicely. As I expected there is aluminum molded inside the rubber of these flanges. The PVC parts are due on saturday. I won't be able to glue them because I want to take them to work monday and do a bit of work on them using the lathe.

If I get the pvc parts ready and still have time I might cut copper too. Using the 1" to 1-1/4" reducer I can use the same intake flanges. The only part I still need is a carb flange that fits the copper pipe. I might be able to use the aluminum one I have.

I got the pvc parts yesterday. Tomorrow I should have something to show you.

opcorn:

I didn't get as far as I'd hoped today but I'll show what I did. I discovered there's just enough clearance to do without the straight coupler between the elbow and the intake.

The pvc is only a millimeter or two above the screw head that holds the coolant tubes, the one in almost the center of the engine. It drops the carb by 2 or 3"' from my first one using the stock intake horns. It should be a bit easier to work on the carb.
The carb won't fit the normal way, the bowl is touching the frame. I guess it could be nudged 1/4" forward to clear it but there's no need. I'll just spin it around as many others have. The manifold looks really good. I did trim about 1/2" off two legs of the 5-way and two of the 45s but I've still got a solid 5/8" or maybe 3/4" of straight pipe to connect them. That's plenty.

The elbow ID is a great match to the Mikuni intake.


Centered. It seems best adjusting the lengths of the two runners I had to cut (#2 and #3) and once those are good adjusting #1 and #4. I quit for the day because it was too darned cold.

I got larger hose clamps for the intakes and one for the carb flange. I had to bend the carb linkage out just a little bit to clear the flange. I'll have to put the flange on the carb first, drop it on, then tighten the hose clamp. I also got new hardware the right length for the Mikinis.

Coming together nicely.

looks good opcorn: