Aluminum intake manifold

Looks good!

Looking more & more like a plug & play set up, all the time. :yes: Nice work! :good:

Plated and ready for paint. It's so rainy here I don't know when I'll be able to do it.

Man that looks great!

Here's a sneak peek at my next design.
Like the one I'm finishing now the carb riser is 2" high. The runner ID will be 1.375", just a tiny bit smaller than the stock intakes which are about 1.40" That large ring on the end of the runners is 1.62" OD to fit nicely into the stock intake horns. The biggest difference is the plenum box. It's made of bent sheet metal and I used the largest radius bends practical so it has few internal sharp corners. Less dead space for gas to condense and hang around. I think it looks much better than the simple rectangular tube. Please tell me what you think. I'll have a price next week. If I sell any here CGW will get a cut.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=181489#p181489:33k0te18 said:

slabghost » Fri Sep 30, 2016 4:45 pm[/url]":33k0te18]
Man that looks great!

Click to expand...

It's almost too pretty to paint, right? That's a lighter shade but they can get it a nice dark gold. The surface won't get white and flaky and it's the best primer for paint you can have. They can also do clear if the color doesn't suit you.

New design looks very clean. The only zinc chromate I'm familiar with is a green primer. Being all aluminum I'd be tempted to polish it and clear coat it. Black hammered finish will look great. Could paint the carb to match. Should look almost OEM.

I think that green is a dye added to make it more visible so there's no question about its condition or presence and to make scratches or damage more visible. Clear alodine is invisible but the etching would ruin any polishing. If you want shiny you'd have to clear coat it as you said.

Painted! The intake horns got a fresh coat too. They have taken a beating as they were used to hold the parts in place for welding and those darned things just roll off the table when you set them down. Good test of the paint tho, and it held up as good as you could ask for. That hammered finish just doesn't come across well in pics. Trust me, it's good.

I wonder about heating. That big flat bottom should pick up radiated heat from the top of the engine. I wonder if that will be good enough. It wouldn't be hard to make a little wind guard to go between the manifold and engine to reduce air cooling.

Looks great from here! No heating will be needed once carb is set up.

It went on with minimal effort. It started as soon as it got fuel. This part is finally done!

Looks like it belongs there.

now for dial in ....what is runner ID ...seems you came up with a super version this time chuck ,,,now time to dial it in good

Runner ID is 1.407 which is real close to the ID of the intake.

its good for people to see runner size many think it a huge thing ...i agree with runner size being bigger as oppose to smaller ...

Locking good. :good:
You could extend the cable location mounting point so that on full throttle the cable is more central.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=181658#p181658:1kthy08g said:

Ansimp » Sun Oct 02, 2016 5:42 pm[/url]":1kthy08g]
Locking good. :good:
You could extend the cable location mounting point so that on full throttle the cable is more central.

Click to expand...

I agree. It needs a bit more bend and moved 1/4"-3/8" back. But since this one won't see full throttle very much, it will rarely come that close.

I think it's important to mention to anyone doing this to make sure the spark plug wires and such are tied down so they won't interfere with the large throttle arm. It swings a pretty large arc. Also make sure the other throttle cable is tied down and can't catch on anything. It's probably best to cut the end off so it doesn't have anything to hook. It would be bad if you ran it wide open and that other cable caught something and the throttle couldn't close when you let off.

I got it up to operating temp and the manifold was so cold it had condensation on it, while the stock intakes were cozy warm. A good bit of head heat is being conducted up those but the rubber insulates the manifold from it. Got me thinking of an insulated spacer between the intakes and the head to keep them cool too. Probably overkill.

lol thats hooches set up ..i have plywood gaskets there to stop the heat totally from getting past the heads ...it is my way to keep runners totally the same all the way to the heads ...before thay get any heat