My SCC adventure

I think we are both confusing colors. Brown /white is what I was looking at.

I don't want to risk the integrity of my switch. I'll study the diagram some more and compare to my wiring

I'll study the shelter to see where to tie into the brown /white wire between the fuse and switch.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193489#p193489:2jlb0vai said:

cmyoch » Fri Jul 21, 2017 1:51 pm[/url]":2jlb0vai]
I set my fuel and air mixture screws at one and a half turns out. Is this a good starting point? And how should I adjust these once the bike is running? Turn both directions until the bike starts to stumble?

Click to expand...

This is what I used to set mine...

https://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

Does the 1000 fuse block have an accessory connection?

When in doubt add a relay for the ignition circuit

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193617#p193617:3uc0ypk7 said:

brianinpa » 36 minutes ago[/url]":3uc0ypk7]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193489#p193489:3uc0ypk7 said:

cmyoch » Fri Jul 21, 2017 1:51 pm[/url]":3uc0ypk7]
I set my fuel and air mixture screws at one and a half turns out. Is this a good starting point? And how should I adjust these once the bike is running? Turn both directions until the bike starts to stumble?

Click to expand...

This is what I used to set mine...

https://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

Does the 1000 fuse block have an accessory connection?

Click to expand...

I don't believe so. I am missing the cover off my fuse block. I looked one up online. I'm in for the day so I'll be looking over the bike this evening.

Are these type of connectors sufficient to tie into my wire harness or should I do something different?

They work... but, if you have the skills and tools, it is better to solder the "y" split.



Then heat shrink over the solder, and it's good as new.

After I posted the question, I came to the realization that soldering is going to be my best bet. I need to buy the better splicing tool that separates the wire insulation.

I have been using a butt connector that has solder in the center and the cover is already heat shrink. I make the wire connections by just weaving the wires together in the connector and hit it with the heat gun (propane torch or solder torch works too).

Example:

I'll be soldering and using heat shrink to make nice waterproof connections.

Meanwhile I tested my connections and the brown/white wire is the correct wire. Thing is, I am getting 11.5 volts at the battery (bike has been sitting all winter) and only 9.5 volts at this wire. I connected to another wire on the handlebar switch and it's still 9.5 volts. I'll throw the charger on the bike and get it charged up. My only concern is that at lower voltage, the fuel shut off solenoid will not open up which could potentially be an issue if by chance I have lower voltage to get the bike started when away from home. Is there anywhere else I can tie in to ensure max voltage to the solenoid??

Any time you need battery voltage to a component and stock wire isn't delivering. Use the stock wire to activate a relay and run fresh wire from the battery to the component through the relay. Doesn't take much to activate the relay.

So, in essence there's 2 wires? One to battery, one is switched power, and one to the solenoid all through a relay? is there any particular relay I need to look for? I assume the local auto parts store is where I need to look?

Correction... 3 wires on the relay?

Relay has 4 or 5 connections. One is feed from the circuit to activate (stock feed wire) One is ground other side of feed. One is power from battery one is to the component. Single pole single throw relay is what I use which is 4 pin.

Gee this is getting involved ....on my SCC I have no choke or anything that uses power on the carb....as for the choke ...I felt the choke plates just hindered the air flow of the carb ...and I needed all the air it had ...as my main problem was to rich at low rpm idle ....the solenoid fuel shut off the carb had ...I took it off also ....so carb has no power anything ....but it not a solex carb and I'm saying it applies to you ....keep up the good work...

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193740#p193740:3e0h0zbv said:

joedrum » 59 minutes ago[/url]":3e0h0zbv]
Gee this is getting involved ....on my SCC I have no choke or anything that uses power on the carb....as for the choke ...I felt the choke plates just hindered the air flow of the carb ...and I needed all the air it had ...as my main problem was to rich at low rpm idle ....the solenoid fuel shut off the carb had ...I took it off also ....so carb has no power anything ....but it not a solex carb and I'm saying it applies to you ....keep up the good work...

Click to expand...

I thought the same thing as I was putting it all together. I have contemplated removing the choke and shut off valve all together. Since everything is functional, I tend to keep it. If there is a threaded plug for the shut off valve I'd be very happy. It would be one less component to worry about. Without ruining or damaging the solenoid, How can I plug that port?

I'm not sure that removing the shut-off solenoid is the right answer on the Solex. I made it through this past winter without the choke, but it's reassuring knowing that when you turn off the ignition or hit the kill switch (depends on how you have it wired) all fuel flow in the carb is stopped.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193760#p193760:42xj7g5z said:

brianinpa » Today, 9:32 am[/url]":42xj7g5z]
I'm not sure that removing the shut-off solenoid is the right answer on the Solex. I made it through this past winter without the choke, but it's reassuring knowing that when you turn off the ignition or hit the kill switch (depends on how you have it wired) all fuel flow in the carb is stopped.

Click to expand...

I do agree with that. Since I'm this far, It's no big deal to add a relay.

I agree also. Having a way to shut off gas flow is much preferred over not.
On the dft the solenoid closes off idle gas only to prevent run-on. I Don't know what it closes on the Solex.