I'll start this with some of the designs I've sketched out.
This one uses the stock intake horns. The shape is not right, the 36mm offset isn't there. From what I can tell now that I have the parts in my hands and can measure them, this will give me some problems. Like the PCV, the fittings are too long and have to be cut down to get the spacing right. The difference is when I solder them they will seal and stay that way, even if they are only overlapping by 1/8". Also the 1" to 1.25" reducers are made to slip over the OD of the pipe and are too big to get into the rubber of the intake horns. I'll need short pieces of tube to do that and the reducer will stay entirely outside the rubber.
These two with flanges mounted directly to the heads. I'd need to make flanges which is not something most people can do but it's so tempting. They eliminate the annoying 7* angle of the stock intakes and give me much more room. I'm thinking of sawing off a set of horns to get the flanges and filling the gap to the copper with high temp silicone. It would allow the needed "give" for heat expansion.
This uses 2 standard 45 fittings. The real one isn't very pretty, it's a brass casting, but this shows the geometry works with off-the-shelf parts. Smooth and straight flow, too.
I like the simplicity of this one.
This one uses the stock intake horns. The shape is not right, the 36mm offset isn't there. From what I can tell now that I have the parts in my hands and can measure them, this will give me some problems. Like the PCV, the fittings are too long and have to be cut down to get the spacing right. The difference is when I solder them they will seal and stay that way, even if they are only overlapping by 1/8". Also the 1" to 1.25" reducers are made to slip over the OD of the pipe and are too big to get into the rubber of the intake horns. I'll need short pieces of tube to do that and the reducer will stay entirely outside the rubber.
These two with flanges mounted directly to the heads. I'd need to make flanges which is not something most people can do but it's so tempting. They eliminate the annoying 7* angle of the stock intakes and give me much more room. I'm thinking of sawing off a set of horns to get the flanges and filling the gap to the copper with high temp silicone. It would allow the needed "give" for heat expansion.
This uses 2 standard 45 fittings. The real one isn't very pretty, it's a brass casting, but this shows the geometry works with off-the-shelf parts. Smooth and straight flow, too.
I like the simplicity of this one.