Langdons 32/32 leaking float valve.

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El-Anders

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Lawrenceville, GA
Would be grateful for some advice here.

So I bought a 32/32 from Langdon. Built an intake from parts from an EMPI VW kit. (I now have a 32/36 for sale) Not the cheapest way of doing things, but I was desperate to get my bike on the road. Yesterday I was installing a new fuel filter after the pump, and after that just trying to fill up the carb. I'm waiting for 4 new NGK spark plugs caps, since 1 of them had infinite resistance, so I cant start it until I get them.

And what happens? This carb that I heard so much good about, is filling up my plenum and intake! Its just flooding out in the middle of the barrel. Can I fix this without taking of the top part of the carb, and fix/repair/fiddle with the float valve?

Didn't expect to have to repair this brand new carb!

I have some videos of my built on youtube. I can put some links here later.
 
if you haven't, you probably should check in your tank and make sure you aren't dumping trash in. Filters should catch it as long as they are serviced regularly. Have you seen the pics of the Emgo fuel filter issues?
 
good news stopping this leak is much easier than stock set up ... the 32-32 carb was mad for a low rpm economy car motor .... ive tried so hard to combat the bs out there about good out of the box carb ...it makes for some rather diappointing efforts at first .....there are pluses and minuses to using a 32-32 dft carb ... over stock .... but for sure there is to rich idle circuit in the carb ...while it seems the rest of the jetting is way lean ....in my bike witch is aggresively modded 1200 motor......the tom carb is a great mod ..but you have to be willing to play to win ...

im not making statements one way or the other...but ive been led to huge mods over stock set up on the dft i use to work for me on my bike ...outcome is better and better over stock set up

out of the box it will run ... most stock setups are easy to beat and the best are not that hard to beat ...has been my experience ...

your going to have to get where going into carb is not a big deal there are many threads here on single setup dft carb has lots of info ... id would read them ...and we can help you i am sure :mrgreen:
 
Most likely some trash got in between the needle seat from your line hookup. Happened to me too. It was a piece of Teflon tape, no fault of the carb.
You'll need to remove the top screws and cover to get at the seat.
 
Thanks guys.
It fixed it self, run the starter today for about 30 second, and no flooding. The acc pump is pumping fine, so soon as I get spark plug caps, we will see how it runs. Have to connect the throttle after that.

I was hoping yesterday that maybe it was "dry" float valve (if that is possible). Or maybe some crap is now in the float chamber, and will give me problem later. But I take that problem when it comes.

There as a good filter before the fuel pump, and I put another filter after the pump, because I seen on car's that the pump can let off some small rubber pieces.

I saw a marking on the carb: "1181" is it possible that it was manufactured November 1981? The car this carb is made for, is from that time, right?

Here are some links:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEx2eziT3Yo

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEx2eziT3Yo[/video]

I'm not good at making videos, so excuse all the mumbling, and going back and forth. The left and right confusment is something I struggle with in real life to. Don't scream to me in the car "take a left!" I will most definitely take a right... hehe. In video 2 I have a lamp, that helped.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhlDtsrPeSw

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhlDtsrPeSw[/video]
 
Bought a 4 dollar spark plug wire to be able to test run the carb. (The ...... EBay seller has not shipped my spark plug caps yet) .
It started and run, but no idle, well there is no O-rings at the heads, and no clamps at the EMPI rubber boats, so hopefully I have idle when I fixed that.

The good thing is that it didn't smoke, and it did not smell! The smell is the weirdest thing. The first time I started the bike, the exhaust smoked and smelled like shi...! Wife was complaining, I filled it up with fresh gas. But the smell would not leave even after a15 mile test run on the road, with the OEM carbs.

It was nice to have a "normal" scent from the bike, and absolutely no smoke.

Fix the throttle cables, and electrical for the choke, and hopefully a test run next weekend.
 
Its running!

But I have some weird things going on. When it went out of choke, and down to idle (hot). It was running at 500rpm, and of course died. I had to screw in the throttle plate screw so much so it is now almost bottomed out. Also had to screw the mixture screw out a couple of turns. I could see when I had the carb in my hand that the plate was opened what I would guess enough to give it a good idle, but it was not. Other people also says that they had to lower the idlle, that it was running at 2000 rpm out the box, and that the mix screw was ok.

So do I have a clogged idle system? It seems to run fine, so I don't know?

Another thing is that it started to smoke. I can't smell any coolant, any oil scent. It just smells like good old exhaust fumes. So .....I hope for residue from the old carbs.

Here is the link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5q7zZRK2XY

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5q7zZRK2XY[/video]
 
the smoke is from the exhaust im sure ...it will take awhile to burn that all out ... till its back to normal... probably oil from sitting on side stand for some yrs....when like this it useally takes some time to get hot enought to start burning smoking as it has to get up to temp in muffler first ....seems to sound pretty good to me ... if i had to guess i probably a bit rich down low in rpm ...it is already running better than stock set up of carbs ..very responsive and ahead of the game instead of the always lagging behind stock feed ....this time of yr id be concentrated on getting idle great and find where its at .. if to rich it will cause blacken plugs ....

nice work ...obviously it seems you did a great job on manifold to be running this good ...congratulations :rocks:
 
Thanks. We'll the runners has some small internal mismatch, because I'm so limited when it comes to tools in my garage. Run it again today, the smoke is dissappearing. If the idle goes below 1000 it bogs down slowly.
 
small mismatch in runners has been beat to death as huge problem when it other things that cause problems ..not saying its dont make some difference it just small ... i cant say i know whats up on your bike from here ...but it f the idle slowly goes away ..its usually slowly drowning the plugs out ..from being to rich at idle ... its my opinion the dft idle circuit is to big for the oldwing motor ... personally on my very thristy and highly modded 1200 ...i have done huge mods to idle circuit to lean it out ......seems to me the the idle circuit is the only mismatch in the dft carb and oldwing motor...but others seem to do fine as is ... plus my carb is the big dft ...but i am rather sure idle circuit is the same
 
Yes. I also think it's running rich at idle. I will look in to what you been writing about lean out idle.
I will fix throttle and air filter, and drive the bike for a short time, to get a feel of how it's running, and what needs to be improved.
 
Yeah. I was putting all my efforts on sealing everything. I might have been lucky, and maybe the 2 adapters under the carb is speeding things up, just what I hoped for. Also the VW runners going down from 34mm to 29mm is speeding it up too?

Well, I need to fix a throttle hook up, and the air filter, and then ride it for a while. After that start fiddling with heat. I was thinking of going to a friend with a TIG, ask him to weld a "bottom" to the VW plenum, with 2 fittings. I'm thinking oil, it looks like an easy way to mount an oil cooler adapter plate at the oil filter, run 2 hoses to the plenum. Of course it has to be high quality hoses and fittings, you don't want to get your shoes, and engine ruined by a sudden oil leak.

Also I have 2 sets of handle bar heaters to add optional heat to the runners, (6,50 each from China) but I don't know yet how much power they draw from the system. They could be like something you turn on if you are stuck on a red light, or something, if the alternator cant handle it continuously.

Its cold in Georgia, and I have to work like crazy to start school buses 5 o'clock in the mornings, so this project has to be on idle for a couple of weeks.
 
Ok, the project stalled a bit because of cold weather, and the slight problem with idle I have.
The problem is that I have the mix screw out 4 turns, and the speed screw almost bottomed out.
I cant screw in the mix screw more, it dies.
I heated the plenum with 2! heat guns, it was very hot. didn't do anything, still couldn't screw in the mix screw.

Called Langdon to see if he could have some experience with this. He almost didn't wan't to talk to me about this issue until I have a heated plenum. He is a nice guy, I understand he's point of view.

But I have the 32-36 EMPI Weber copy, that come with the VW kit. So I put that on to see if there is an issue with either my intake, or the idle circuit in the 32-32.

That carburetor run fine (not perfect, but exactly the same as the 32-32) with a good setting of 1 3/4 turn on mix, and 1 3/4 on speed screw.

So, great! My intake is fine, something is out of wack in my 32-32. I have taken it apart, and going to clean all channels and tubes with air. I took a look at the idle jet, and it looks open, but still need to blow some air through there.

There is another issue that I have to talk to Langdon about, and that is the EVAP electrical valve. Langdon cuts the wire to the magnet, and then (at least on my carb) he leaves the blocking valve pin in there. This means that my float bowl chamber is never ventilated!
With no power to the valve, the float bowl is vented to the EVAP coal canister, but that opening is plugged by Langdon. So there is never a ventilated float bowl in my carb. That should mean that my carb always runs with a to low float bowl fuel level. Is this why my idle mixture is to lean?

Weber say's that: "if you have to go out more then 2 turns on your mix screw, then you have a lean condition in your idle circuit"

So next try with the 32-32 is to after I cleaned it, run it without the blocking pin for float bowl vent, so that it is vented through the inside of the air cleaner. If it runs with a better mix setting after this, I am going to put back the vent pin(valve) and see if it is going back to lean idle.

So anybody have any experience with the EVAP system, I will be grateful for any input, or thoughts about this, and also about the idle.
 
Here is the 32-36 on the double adapter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oxdvuyqeg9Q

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oxdvuyqeg9Q[/video]

Here is how it runs with the 32-36 carb:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T24NDPw1UC0

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T24NDPw1UC0[/video]

Kind of aggressive when that second barrel kicks in. Until it is fully warm, you can not hit the second barrel, it sounds like a dying cow (you all know that sound... hehe)
 

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