Wrong intake runner

I don't know how this happened, but for five years, I have a had a problem at lower rpm. I had done the off-idle jet fix, and was on my third set of carbs for my 77 trying to get it right. I was adjusting my choke the other day and when tightening the intake runners, I was using a ratcheting wrench. I got to one runner and it wouldn't fit on the bolt. I started looking, thinking it was odd that it would fit, and looking more closely, it looked like an 1100 runner. I got my calipers and it was!!!. I have four that are chrome plated and that's why they were on there instead of the aluminum ones. Some where along the line I got an 1100 runner instead of a 1000.I've only put a few miles on it after re-synching, but I think that is going to do it. On the choke problem, did you guys know there is a bendable tab that kicks the bellcrank to up the idle? Mine was set to low to advance it at all. If yours screams to high with full choke, it can be bent back to lower the idle some. My first 77 would start and rev up to about 4600. I was nervous about it. I have this one set to warm up at about 2500. Time to ride!

Congrats on getting it right! Post up a pic of this bendable tab please.

Yes. a picture of that tab please. Mine has no fast idle with the choke. I plan to ride this winter and will need fast idle for warm up.

I'd like to adjust mine down a little. I can only go half choke without it revving too high for my taste.

~O~

Pics beat words, but my pic skills are poor. I will try tomorrow. There is one arm on the left side of the bike (when sitting). It is about a 90 degree bent arm which is activated by a cam attached to the 2-4 carb-choke mechanism. If you reach in and push it down by hand it will expose a slightly curved end which kicks the bellcrank to advance the throttles. It will rotate down past the throttle advancer on the bellcrank, just hold the throttle open by hand. Hold it open again when you put it back to its original position. It is hard to see until you manually push it into view where it can be reached with a set of needle nosed players. 45 or 90 degree needle nosed would be better.

I have a set of runners tat are different then the rest there heavy to so If I understand the 1100's wont work on a 1000 engine ..?

thats bs ...they work ..obviously the changed some but this is all in appearance .. they were not precision made with tight tolerances...but plenty good where they had to be

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138905#p138905:9krxazqv said:

joedrum » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:14 pm[/url]":9krxazqv]
thats bs ...they work ..obviously the changed some but this is all in appearance .. they were not precision made with tight tolerances...but plenty good where they had to be

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Okay COOL Thanks Joe

No-one said the 1100 runner wouldn't work on the 1000 engine. What ekvh pointed out was that on his engine, he had 3 1000 runners, and 1 1100 runner, creating a mis-match that he believes is causing his problem. :yes:

AApple":2i7v7yjg said:

No-one said the 1100 runner wouldn't work on the 1000 engine. What ekvh pointed out was that on his engine, he had 3 1000 runners, and 1 1100 runner, creating a mis-match that he believes is causing his problem. :yes:

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one odd intake horn AKA runner can cause all sorts of odd behavior.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138903#p138903:2i7v7yjg said:

CRAFTMAN6001 » Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:33 pm[/url]":2i7v7yjg]
I have a set of runners tat are different then the rest there heavy to so If I understand the 1100's wont work on a 1000 engine ..?

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1000 and 1100 intake horns / runners can be used on either motor as complete sets. Mixing them may not be a good idea as inside design may differ.

okay cool I have 4 of 1100 8 oh 1000