different way to bleed brakes on 1000 forks

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joedrum

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well went through mu brakes on the hooch bike ....bleeding brakes is such a pain it seems...so tried something else and it worked great and was instant compared to other ways ....

ill call this the back bleed method ...ok the way to push the most fluid at one time ...is not with the master cylinder or at the bar ...its very small and also works agains gravity when trying to get air out of line and also ..on front systems you habe the y in the lines where air can hang up...and never bleed rigjt ...

so what i did was use the caliper piston as my pusher of fluid ...volume is huge com pared to master lever...it has the absolutlely fantasic bonas of clearing the return hole in master ...wiitch can be a nightmare to do other ways....it pushes fluid uphill and air travels stait to resevor and out ...you dont have to keep filling the fluid level......

by leaving one brake on rotor on front set ups....you can take other off ....take pads off ...qnd using c clamp push piston all the way in .....then pump brake piston back up ...using c clamp to relax piston without pushing it all the way out.....now you have fullest load of fluid to push in right direction for air to get out of resivor at master....first thing that happened was ..it locks other brake up on rotor and then was hard to push ...return hole was blocked ..so i applied all the pressure icould on the c clamp to piston ...in less than a minute return block gave up... and piston cranked down all the way....filled piston again and repeated ...them reassemble brake on that side...them took other side brake off and did same thing ...never added fluid at all ..went out and tested on a test ride ..front brakes were totally air free and solid as lever as ive ever had ...i mean no air in system at all ...sheesh i was amazed how well this ...thought id past it on to forum....
 
I see how that worked but the old fluid and junk in the line is still in it, which is one of the main reasons to bleed brakes by replacing the fluid. Maybe flush then do it to get that last bit of air out.
 
I can see that working well. By having the caliper off, you can also tip it so the exit is most upright allowing air to easily find the exit. I did it this way for my clutch. I also remove the splitter and tip it in the right direction also.
 
your right dan i should changed fluid and this would have been thing to do first but i didnt the nee fluid on hsnd and fluif was that bad but your right pump out old fluid first with master ...out bleeders on cwliprts and do as posted in first post ....then fluid be new....it was the quickest time ever for me to solid lever ever....
 
Great idea Joedrum ! just rebuilt my calipers on my Cbx and master complete, having a heck of a time with a spongy lever, cracked open the spliter on both sides and bleed the master at the lever also , same system as the wing in 1979, gonna do that tomorrow, all brake fluid is new anyway .
 
Since I had issues with my '81 brakes early on in my oldwing life, I have since learned the easiest way to work on these calipers is to clamp all of the pistons all the way in and then bleed as needed. Also works as an easy way to flush the system since air cannot get trapped in the cylinders.

I have taken the calipers and brake lines off completely, and started from scratch using this method and in minutes I have the lines flushed and bled through with no air.
 
that the way ive done in the past gerry but it dosnt really get air out of Y junction well ...and your to air the bleeders and it wants to nsturally go the other way ...and also dosnt do anything to help clear return hole.....
 
You can use a large syringe with a hose on the bleeder, to push new fluid into the system after flushing. :headscratch: I still like the vac pump the best, if given the option. :yes:
 
Change the fluid often enough, so no worry's about the return (relief) hole being pluged. :nea: Any issues with the master show's up, :roll: tear it apart, clean, rebuild it, & works like new. :hihihi:
 
sheesh dever people buy oldwings all the time that hwve sat....this info about being able to power blast return hole and clear it is huge info for oldwingers ....sheeeeh....let the thread breath its message....
 
They need to put things right b4 trying to ride a death trap. :popcorn: Bought more than my share of used bikes, :thank_you: seen how others do things, :smilie_happy: seen how i do it. Have more work offered to me than i can keep up with, :whistling: head mechanic at the dealer asked if i wanted him to send me the older stuff that they turn away because they won't work on them. :yes: Had to turn him down too sick to work that kind of pace anymore :oops:Not trying to be an a--hole, i am real good at it :roll: I take care of any issues b4 trying to ride any new to me bikes, :salute: just stupid that way i guess :heat:
 
I was thinking this is a good way to get the air out and clear the return hole, but that junk that was obstructing the hole should be cleaned out of the fluid so it doesn't plug the hole again.
 
your right denver l..should take care of things ...not thr point ..if hete a method to clear the return hole on old bike in minutes ....it good info... wll the yrs ive read threads ..ive nevrr came across a better method....

gee i give up
 
Works the same way on the clutch, syringe is cheep as is a piece of hose, same principal, air is lighter than brake fluid.
 
gee what foolish posts drnver ....you remind me of the worthless shedevil i got away from...agter the kids got of age....if you eant to post about your methhod of brake bleeding ....do it in another thread.....
test rides have comfirmed good solid pedal......at least one poster seen the advantages to this nee method ...that makes thread worth it ....and the hell with the discounters .....ttuth is the fluuid in my bike eas fine ...didnt need to change it ....i hope readers can get the dumb posts as fastix did and get some use from this thread

this thread was tatgeted to single piston brakes ...as title suggest...and makes the best clearing of all tjhings in one operation ...thanks
 
Just a thought, maybe a bad one. What about removing the master cylinder and turning it upside down in a container, flush lines by filling from Calibers, once you get clean fluid coming out of the MC install master cylinder and continue filling from calibers. I have a gallon can of DOT 3 with a pump, but any pump should work just fine.
 
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