Ultrasonic Cleaning of Carbs

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mcgovern61

Well-known member
Staff member
Moderator
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
10,952
Reaction score
220
Location
Kingsport, Tennessee
My Bike Models
Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
I recently purchased a fairly small ultrasonic cleaner specifically to clean a set of '81 carbs that were pretty rough. There are quite a few tutorials on Youtube for using these cleaners and lots of ideas on the formula for the actual liquid to be used as the agent. The most common liquids are distilled water alone or mixed with either Dawn dish washing liquid, Simple Green, Pine Sol, Ka-Pow or some have even used those products full strength.

I chose to first use distilled water only. Most of the work is performed by the ultrasonic waves and the heater really helps to loosen dirt. It worked fairly well. Next I used 1 oz of Dawn dish washing liquid plus the heat and the results are really good. I will use this thread to show the results.
 
Here is the new inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner from Ebay ($88 shipped):

1. Tank Material: Stainless Steel SUS304
2. Heating Power: 100W
3. Ultrasonic Power: 120W
4. Frequency: 40kHz
5. Power Supply: AC110V 60Hz
6. Tank Capacity: 3 L
7. Time Setting: 1 - 30 minutes (LED Digital Display)
8. Temperature Setting: 0-80 degrees Celsius
9. Transducer Quantity: 2 set
10. Tank Size: 9 1/2"×5 1/2"×4" (L x W x H)
11. Ultrasonic Cleaner Size: 11"×7"×8 1/2" (L x W x H)

It is bigger than the Harbor Freight unit. This unit should go a long way in helping to clean up the carbs. You can only fit one disassembled carb at a time, but I have seen the results on various videos using this machine and it seems to work good for them.

image.php


image.php


image.php
 
These Carbs need a serious cleaning and rebuild and are the going to be my first test cleaning.

There are leaks at almost every seal. One of the idle pilot screws is broken off. There is nasty black bits and goo stuck all over the place. There is that wonderful green nasty slime from carbs that sat for nearly 2 years with gas in them. The float valves are all stuck in place. With some careful persuasion, I got them out only to find even more nasty black goo.

image.php


image.php


image.php
 
Started the carb cleaning process. First, pull the intakes off, then linkage, then split the plenum. Next, pull the individual carbs. I have layed out containers for each carb. We will be dismantling and cleaning one at a time.

image.php


image.php


image.php


Opening up #4:

image.php


#4 primary jet might be a bit clogged? :hihihi: :doh:

image.php
 
I was not able to get the idle jet out with either an easy out or drywall screw. I dropped the carb into Chem Dip to soak for a while to get the worst junk off.

image.php


Some of the other parts have been placed into the new ultrasonic cleaner with distilled water and a bit of Dawn.

image.php


Check out the cleaning action just 1 minute into the process:

image.php


Round one! Ten minutes of cleaning:

image.php


Once these parts are done, I am moving one half of the plenum in as is with no advanced cleaning. I want to see how well this device will clean this up with just heat, water and Dawn.

image.php
 
I am officially impressed with this little ultrasonic cleaner! It was well worth the $88 bucks! :clapping:

Look at how the plenum halves turned out with only 15 minutes each in the mix of hot distilled water, an ounce of Dawn dish washing soap and the ultrasonic waves with no pre-treatment:

image.php


image.php


image.php
 
I soaked the #4 carb body and bowl for 1 hour in the Chem-Dip. I was then able to pull the idle jet out. All into the machine for 15 minutes and look at the results:

image.php


image.php


image.php


image.php


image.php


image.php


I checked each passage with a can of carb cleaner and everything is clear and smooth. I am impressed! :yes: :yahoo:
 
Nice!

I used HF version for my Bridgestone carbs.
They didn't go quite right so ended up buying new ones.
Capacity is one thing. Not sure HF item lacks ultrasonic power.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186990#p186990:2brkhng4 said:
joedrum » Mon Feb 13, 2017 10:38 am[/url]":2brkhng4]
pistol Gerry at work .... :builder: :smilie_happy:
:smilie_happy: I am trying to make Pete proud! He is working on getting me the new carb kits for when we put these back together.
 
Excellent Gerry.. :clapping:
And I am still jealous of your new cleaner.. :yes:
 
Very Nice ! Works awesome .. Glad to see you got that slow jet out ! here is a help post to get that little sucker out

Postby daves79x » Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:36 pm
It's probably been covered here before, but here goes: 3mm will work, but SAE 4-40 is a better fit. Anyway - you need a screw of either of the above sizes, nut and a couple of washers. Then you need to tap the pressed-in jet a few threads. You don't have to drill a pilot hole, the jet has several mm of 'pilot hole' already drilled in it, before you get to the actual #35 passage. I've had a couple of guys tell me that the 3mm was pretty hard to get tapped without drilling out a bit, but the 4-40 will tap very easily.

Anyway, get as many threads tapped into the jet as possible, thread the nut up on the screw, put a washer on and then screw the assembly down into the threads you tapped. The tower the jet is pressed into makes a perfect pulling platform. Just tighten the nut down on the tower and the jet will pull right out. I've never ruined a jet this way and never had one I couldn't get out. And I've removed dozens of them.

Then you can properly clean the jets and the passages behind it. Just make sure you get all the debris blown out of the carb body. Then you need a small brass drift to reinstall. Just tap them back in with the drift. Good luck
 
Great thread. If your going that deep into carbs that's the way to do it. Just one question. How did the chem dip do on the throttle shaft seals. Jerry
 
The ultrasonic cleaner does a fantastic job at breaking up almost all of the hard stuff. But there are still some areas of the carb that need to be checked and cleaned. The acc jet in each carb is a tough one since it faces back inward and you really cannot see if it is clear. Spraying carb cleaner through the small cross tube port (which connects the acc circuits) will let you know it it is clogged.

I found that using a small safety pin stretched out and then curled back again to be the easiest way to clear the jet. I only "poke" a pinhole in the clog and then spray carb cleaner from the passage to blow the clog out.

image.php


image.php
 
Top