Valve Clearance Adjustment GL1000 and GL1100

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Roady

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Engine must be Stone-Cold . . . that's overnight-cold.

1. Remove the valve covers by loosening the four 10-mm bolts evenly and in a diagonal pattern. This helps to avoid distorting the covers.

Orient yourself to the piston numbers. The first time on an unfamiliar engine it's a good practice to make numbered masking tape labels and stick them near the set of valves for each cylinder.

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2. Remove the spark plugs. Remove the timing mark cover and rotor bolt cover.

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3. Place your 12-mm offset-box-end wrench on the rotor bolt. Rotate the engine clockwise until the intake valve on #1 cylinder opens and closes. Pull up only! You do not want to loosen that rotor bolt. #1 Intake is the upper valve on the right front cylinder.

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4. Continue rotating until the flywheel's T-1 mark is aligned with the index marks on the case. #1 is now at TDC (top dead center).

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5. Check the clearance on the following valves by running the correct size feeler gauge between the valve stem head and the adjusting screw.
  • #1 Intake - - .004" (.10 mm) - - - right front, top
    #1 Exhaust - .005" (.13 mm) - - right front, bottom
    #3 Exhaust - .005" (.13 mm) - - right rear, bottom
    #4 Intake - - .004" (.10 mm) - - - left rear, top

6. If the gap on a valve is incorrect, loosen the nut with a 10-mm box wrench and screw the adjuster in or out with your screwdriver. Use a light touch here and don't push in on the screwdriver. Turn the screw in until the feeler gauge won't move, then back off slowly until it just starts to move. You want just a little resistance to movement here. When it's correct, the next size larger gauge will not easily slide in and the next one smaller will be sloppy-loose.

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7. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the nut while holding the adjustment screw in position with the screwdriver.

8. Torque the locknuts to 9-12 lb.ft. (1.2-1.6 kgf m) and re-check the clearance on #1 intake and exhaust, #3 exhaust and #4 intake. Adjust any that are incorrect.

9. Rotate the engine 360° clockwise until the T-1 mark is again lined up the the index marks. #2 piston is now at TDC. Check and adjust the clearance on the following valves as you did in Steps 6 & 7.
  • #2 Intake - - .004" (.10 mm) - - - left front, top
    #2 Exhaust - .005" (.13 mm) - - left front, bottom
    #4 Exhaust - .005" (.13 mm) - - left rear, bottom
    #3 Intake - - .004" (.10 mm) - - - right rear, top

10. Torque the locknuts to 9-12 lb.ft. (1.2-1.6 kgf m) and then re-check the clearance on #2 intake and exhaust, #4 exhaust and #3 intake. Adjust any that are incorrect.

11. An additional check should be done at this time as described in Steps 12 -15.

12. Rotate the engine 360° clockwise. #1 intake will open and close. Align T-1 to the index marks. #1 is now at TDC. Check #1's intake and exhaust valve clearance and re-adjust if needed.

13. Rotate the engine 180° and align the T-2 mark. #3 is now at TDC. Check/adjust valve clearance on #3.

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14. Rotate the engine 180° and align the T-1 mark. #2 is now at TDC. Check/adjust valve clearance on #2.

15. Rotate the engine 180° and align the T-2 mark. #4 is now at TDC. Check/adjust valve clearance on #4.

16. Inspect, clean/replace gaskets and refit the valve covers. Torque the 10-mm bolts to 6-9 lb.ft. (.8-1.2 kgf m) evenly and in a diagonal pattern.

17. Inspect, clean/replace O-rings and refit the timing mark cover and rotor cover. Do not overtighten!

18. Go for a ride and enjoy the weather.

NOTE: Valve clearance varies on GL1000 and GL1200. Consult your manual for details. Also, on a GL1000 you should follow this with ignition points and timing adjustments.

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:salute: Hey thanks for the easy tutorial, Ive been putting off adjusting the valves cause she was my only means of transportation other then the city bus but now i have an 81 F150 with a 300 inline 6 plus the 4 speed stick shift, Not much HP due to the single barrel carb but it should get much better mpg then the 5.0 V-8 that most of the 80's ford trucks have
 
Hi Roady well i just did mine and was asking on other sites if i had done it kind of right . Now if i had seen this it would of helped me loads .Did mine as the book Clymer said but you say to do the no4 off of the t2 timing mark just asking why
 
BigAndrew":u3faxl5q said:
:salute: Hey thanks for the easy tutorial, Ive been putting off adjusting the valves cause she was my only means of transportation other then the city bus but now i have an 81 F150 with a 300 inline 6 plus the 4 speed stick shift, Not much HP due to the single barrel carb but it should get much better mpg then the 5.0 V-8 that most of the 80's ford trucks have


I had one with the 5 sp granny and once even got 20+ mpg (when new) going to Oxnard CA from SE AZ.... and got 17-18 regularly with a full over head camper... loved that truck .. replaced the clutch at 125k... only issue was the exhaust manifold broke between cyl s 1 & 2..
 
britman":r7czdk0v said:
Hi Roady well i just did mine and was asking on other sites if i had done it kind of right . Now if i had seen this it would of helped me loads .Did mine as the book Clymer said but you say to do the no4 off of the t2 timing mark just asking why

Just did mine.. and you can adjust from the T1 mark.. then recheck to be sure at T2 (cams do wear some and this will account for that)
 
Joep":3awdokkq said:
britman":3awdokkq said:
Hi Roady well i just did mine and was asking on other sites if i had done it kind of right . Now if i had seen this it would of helped me loads .Did mine as the book Clymer said but you say to do the no4 off of the t2 timing mark just asking why

Just did mine.. and you can adjust from the T1 mark.. then recheck to be sure at T2 (cams do wear some and this will account for that)
i just wanted to make sure ive done it right . ive got a 92 f150 that was given to me its so much fun laughing at the kids in there little Hondas with the big spoiler that dont do a thing and a big oil drum size muffler trying to beat me off the lights and im not even stomping my foot down only do it every now and again cus it loves to drink mines an v8 and ive been told the v6 likes to drink even more
 
britman":1pvqej07 said:
Joep":1pvqej07 said:
britman":1pvqej07 said:
Hi Roady well i just did mine and was asking on other sites if i had done it kind of right . Now if i had seen this it would of helped me loads .Did mine as the book Clymer said but you say to do the no4 off of the t2 timing mark just asking why

Just did mine.. and you can adjust from the T1 mark.. then recheck to be sure at T2 (cams do wear some and this will account for that)
i just wanted to make sure ive done it right . ive got a 92 f150 that was given to me its so much fun laughing at the kids in there little Hondas with the big spoiler that dont do a thing and a big oil drum size muffler trying to beat me off the lights and im not even stomping my foot down only do it every now and again cus it loves to drink mines an v8 and ive been told the v6 likes to drink even more
well guess i did my valves right no big bang when she fired up
 
When I did mine I had a no OEM cam gear on the right side.. it had a slash mark I thought was the mark.. buut when adjusting the valves it locked up when HAND turning it.. I had set it on this slash cut and when i turned the motor around it locked up.. loosened alll the valves and could spin it through the couple of turn overs.. when i looked at the gear when it was at t1 the "up" was almost sideways to the center of the bike compared with the left... then I noticed a tiny "dot spot" about 1 1/2 teeth away (above it)... so I turned it to the dot and put "up" more up and looking like the left cam.. and adjusted valves for the 8th or 9th time.. and it spins with out hitting or locking up!!! ajusted the 4 valves at T-1 and the other four at T-1 ( 1 full turn of the crank) and then checked the appropriate valves at t-2 and am good to go when i get the pipes on.. ( OEM or Harley mod..)
 
Joep":1wu95wgo said:
When I did mine I had a no OEM cam gear on the right side.. it had a slash mark I thought was the mark.

The right one on mine has that slash and so does Susie's 1200 and so do a few others I have on the shelf BUT not ALL of them. Wonder what the purpose of that slash is.
 
it sounds like a spark plug firing off but ive checked um and there ok ill wait till its dark and run it just to make sure
 
ok did this...Now I have a question. After I finished setting all 8 I went 360 degrees and then a bit more to T1 checked and all was well, then I went 180 degress (then a bit more) till I got to T2 and the lash was way tight?? did I do this wrong from the get go? when #1 pushes IN its open and when it comes back OUT its closed right? then you roll a bit more to T1? on mine that valve pushes IN and comes back OUT a little before the T1 comes around. it turns around great and hisses compression out of all 4 pretty good so I dont think anything is hitting??? after the 8 valves are set should each roll of 180 degrees yield the same set clearences for that cylinder?
I have ate my crayons before so Im just askin before I button it up and put the freshly polished covers back on.
oh and yes the cam timing marks are spot on with T1 and the belts are new gates
close to ready for first fire up after teardown and modified rebuild!!yay!!
so about my clearence issue?? I beg ye masters of wingism for direction
 
hmmm well 1 hopefuly you got the timing covers sill off ...2 take plugs out....3 turn motor with crank bolt to nuetral sppot on one cam or the other ...4 reset the belt tensioner in the no load possistion to the right defriction i think its a 1/4" each way and retighten ...do the other side the same way....as far as the valve adjustment ...turning the motor with plugs out will let you feel things to most by hand go slow and you can tell if its hitting anything...just be clean and when plugs are out you can put the boots back on to cover the holess some
 
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