Rebuild '82 Standard Wire Harness and Fuse Box

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Tried the 1200 overflow tank and it did not fit. Still having a hard time finding a home for this fuse box....it really is big. :help:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179186#p179186:tm10iur6 said:
backlander » Sun Aug 21, 2016 8:39 pm[/url]":tm10iur6]
I guess you have already tried mounting it longways between the two air horns on the top of the air box cover like on the regular carbureted 1200's. ?
It does fit across the air horns. But once mounted, how would I access the air filter? I guess I need to check out some more 1200 pics to see how it is mounted.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177919#p177919:17bx57zh said:
mcgovern61 » Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:51 pm[/url]":17bx57zh]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177911#p177911:17bx57zh said:
Ansimp » Sat Jul 30, 2016 6:43 pm[/url]":17bx57zh]
It would be interesting to see the other side of the harness to see if the wiring gauge is the same. Many cases I have seen where wire gauges change in the plugs and whoever manufactured the fuse box, rectifier or other componets used whatever wires they had. I find this all the time in Toyota harnesses with wire gauges and colour codes completely different on either sides of the plugs.
You might be onto something there Tony! Follow the wires from the fuse box to the connectors in this picture and it sure looks like the wires on the lower harness side are smaller. The small upper harness are the wires from the battery and or ignition switch so they are larger.

image.php
I have found a few other pictures of GL1200 fuse boxes. One shows the fuse box located in between the horns of the air box for the earlier models and the SEi models seem to have the fuse box sitting/mounted across the air horns? Maybe that is the route to go? Make a mounting plate on the air box intake. The fuse box has long enough pigtails that I can run the wires either way. Looking at the above photo, the wires and connectors run straight out across the air intake. The fuse box itself does not have a mount with bolt holes. It only has 4 tabs that slide under a mount. No wires come in from the bottom, all of the wires come in from the side like in the picture.

So.....I am thinking that on the SEi, you disconnect the plugs, slide the fuse box out of the mount and then open up the air box to change the filter?
 
There's a small metal clip that attaches to the top of the air box, the center bolt for the air box holds it on, that holds the fuse box. The fuse box just presses down onto the bracket and the spring arms hold it in place. Heres a couple of pics to show the box in place.
Fuse Box.jpg
Fuse Box Bracket.jpg
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179216#p179216:t7oaa9y5 said:
backlander » Mon Aug 22, 2016 1:21 pm[/url]":t7oaa9y5]
There's a small metal clip that attaches to the top of the air box, the center bolt for the air box holds it on, that holds the fuse box. The fuse box just presses down onto the bracket and the spring arms hold it in place. Heres a couple of pics to show the box in place. View attachment 1
file.php

file.php
Now I wish I had gotten the older 1200 fuse box! That sure would have been easier! :head bang:

I have to assume the SEi fuse box mounts in a similar way. I'll have to check a parts fiche. The only real advantage to the SEi fuse box I ended up with is that there are already relays built in. I could most likely have used the older 1200 fuse box with just 1 or 2 added external relays. :blush:
 
Aha! I see how the SEi fuse box was mounted! All I need is an '87 air box with the fuse box bracket! Using this appears to give me enough room that I do not need to change out the overflow tank!

image.php
 
Right, the 87 uses th same fuse box as SE-I just comes with two less relays I think. If you can't make it work ket me know, I might buy it off you if you decide to sell it. I don't think the 1200 box will fit the 1100 though, may have to do some customizing.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179221#p179221:z6n0ga86 said:
backlander » Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:39 pm[/url]":z6n0ga86]
Right, the 87 uses th same fuse box as SE-I just comes with two less relays I think. If you can't make it work ket me know, I might buy it off you if you decide to sell it.
I already cut the plugs off the ends to access all of the wiring. I still have the plugs. I am contacting the guy I bought it from to see if he still has the bracket.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179223#p179223:nhg2g5c2 said:
backlander » Tue Aug 23, 2016 5:59 am[/url]":nhg2g5c2]
Doesn't matter to me if the plugs are attached or not as long as you have them.
:good:
 
After a bit of research, I ordered a '87 SEi air cleaner box with the bracket for the SEi fuse box. Guess what.......?

IT FITS THE 1100 AIR BOX TOO!! :party: :eek:k: :yahoo:

Swapped out the air box lid with the 1200 lid and it is a perfect fit (go figure Honda not wanting to have to change the size!) Tried the fuse box and it fits right in even with the 1100 coolant tank AND the 1100 fuse box! :hihihi:

I am a happy camper! This will make the new wire harness much easier for me. :yes:

Wasn't sure there would be room! Here is the 1100 airbox:
image.php


The 1200 lid installed with the bracket:
image.php


AND the fuse box fitted in place! (And yes the tank lids close correctly!)
image.php
 
Rode a lot this weekend, but I did spend some more time deciphering the 1200 fuse and relay wiring. There are a few items I wanted to add relays for in the past and also some individual circuits.:

* Stebil horn has a relay
* Add a relay for the coils to get direct power rather than via the key switch
* Add a rely for the trailer wire harness unit
* Add a circuit for the radio system
* Add a better location for the added voltmeter circuit I installed
* Add the USB/12 volt power unit to the handlebars for either GPS or cellphone charging

It is looking like many of these "types" of circuits are built into the SEi fuse box. For example, the CFI relay output wire is black with a white stripe which is the same color code for our coils. I can re-purpose that relay to power the coils directly from a battery circuit and pull the wire from the '82 harness and splice in at that location.

It is still a bit shocking to me how the main positive (black) wire from the key switch on the 1100 feeds so many other circuits via splicing with the crimps. I have a chance to upgrade those connections to have individual circuits (where needed) run directly from the fuses or relays.
 
BTW, an interesting circuit setup in the SEi 1200. The key switch supplies direct power to fuses 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7 from the 30 amp fuse similar to the 1100. But, circuits 9, 10, 11 are supplied power directly from a second 30 amp circuit connected to the battery and are not switched from the key.
 
Relay testing completed! :yahoo:

Turns out that a 12 volt power cord from an old network router was enough to trigger the relays. All seven work perfectly. Now that I know which pins/wires are the triggers versus loads, I can start to map out my schematic for the change over.

My only concern is the fact that the '82 wiring is only one 14 gauge red wire from the 30 amp fuse to the key switch and then back out to the system as the black wire. I was planning on running a new 12 gauge wire that will be triggered from one of the relays to run power to the other circuits. My problem is, I cannot find out the amperage rating for the relays in the fuse box.
 

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