shock treatment

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joedrum

joedrum

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seems hooch has a short somewhere ...it effects the charging ...but stator checks out good ...what a mess sheesh i just love this so much i might rewire the whole thig LOL ...
 
well thats a 80 1100 combind unit there .. seems it might be in solenoid ... it is a magnetic switch has to have possitive and negitive ... going to try switching that out ...well the wiring is stategiclly out in the open guys nothing running behind the battery on purpose so i can get at it ... :headscratch: :builder: :nea: :hihihi:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=155517#p155517:dfxipau0 said:
mcgovern61 » Sat Aug 08, 2015 2:31 am[/url]":dfxipau0]
Joe, I see the problem!! You need a battery!! :smilie_happy:
Click to expand...
+1 and with all the extra wiring it looks like you have rewired Hooch Joe :doh:
And the yellow helmeted men are multiplying :smilie_happy:
 
pics ...trying to put 1100 solenoid on 1000 wired bike
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i have two wires to hook up and four plugs ins ... im thinking one of these is ground ... im guessing the green and red one ...the yellow and red one seems to be hot ....everytime i hook it up the oil light comes on like i switched the key ....

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this the 1000 solenoid ...im sure im doing something stupid but need help to see it ....and what is yellow and red wire and what is green and red wire ... :headscratch:
 
I would make up a + and - wire lead from the battery to check the solenoids which wire it needs connected, then use your volt meter to check which wire gets a + when the start button is pushed. I don't know without looking if the 1000 uses a diode in the neutral start circuit but wrong connections here could burn that out among other things.
Use your meter and draw it out.
 
well it seems there must major problem in wiring or something ... or the stator shorting out under load or something ... might be a motor out deal ... ive took a break from it lately for my sanity ... i wish i had more of a grasp on this funky honda wiring ... i must admit ..i dont think much of some of honda wiring procedures...having hot wires carrying lots of load in wire connections buried under the black tape is just ignorant practice... this bike has suffered already from one of those connection by honda ... and it seems something like this is going on again ....i guess if conditions were right for one connection to deteriate ..it makes sence other connections could fail ....may get somewhere on it today if im up for it .. :thanks:
 
well the title of this thread is shock treatment .. it was shocking me faintly ..so far everything is going downhill ...so my next move is to take the vetter off and go through all the wiring and connections looking for a short or something ....sheesh :builder:
 
hmmm... ha ha. yellow/red is the power . it comes from the start switch. it turns the solenoid on.
green/red is the earth/ground. it is tied in with the neutral switch, and the clutch switch on the clutch lever.
theres a diode or two as well somewhere in there. :BigGrin:
electrickery ........... :head bang: :head bang:

ps
i doubt that end of the deal will affect the charging tho........ :read:
 
calling down under ... tony please ... when it come to electrics the man down under is who i go to for proper aim at what im doing .....as before on this bike and issue of charging ive been whip up on pretty good again .... las time this happen with tony guidanced ..i was able to figure that stator from a 1000 would work in 1200 motor ....also found out honda splices wires inside ther wiring harnest that can cause hiiden bad connections ...on 1000s one of these hidden connection was on a stator wire going to voltage regulator and also to rectifier ... this wire caused big time heat and would fail to charge right or caused regulator not to work right ...

anyway tony i need guidance again on winding test with headlight bulb test to carry load ?

calling down under ......TONY HELP SOS ...IM SINKING IN LOW VOLTAGE......
 
viewtopic.php?p=125022#p125022
That was the original stator testing on the 1200. Use a 55w headlight bulb as a 4.5 amp load for your circuit testing by connecting one side of the headlight to a positive supply battery the other side of the headlight bulb to the circuit to be tested and the end of the circuit to ground. It can also be used to find a short more easily by having the battery hooked up to ground and feeding the battery positive through the headlight bulb and then into the circuit in question. If the headlight lights up brightly you have a short ( if it is not a high current circuit ( headlight, cooling fan etc)) and by wiggling the harness/wire you should be able to make or break the short ( headlight test bulb goes off and on accordingly). If that doesn't help Joe PM with your phone number and I will call you :yes:
 
ok very nice tony ive got it all now ... i will load test stator wires with battery in a bit being carful not to hang to long on connection .... out come of that will be major fact to look at on whats next :thanks:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=155803#p155803:2xrmgcjn said:
joedrum » Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:10 am[/url]":2xrmgcjn]
ok very nice tony ive got it all now ... i will load test stator wires with battery in a bit being carful not to hang to long on connection .... out come of that will be major fact to look at on whats next :thanks:
Click to expand...
I just arc it out quickly, remember no combustible items close by when creating a source of ignition ( big spark) :doh: :good:
 
Yes, you're checking to see if the wire can carry a current.
A volt meter is basically useless here since voltage can be read on a wire but not tell you if it can supply a current.
 

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