the hooch bike is electricly dead in the water

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joedrum

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my new battery is toast after just a couple days of being hooked up ....i have no clue whats going on ...except to say this bike has always been total nightmare in the wiring harness

only plan i have is to try and rewire a basic system and hope all the devices involved are good

divine intervention im sure is needed :shock: :builder: my hammer is totally useless here ...that pretty much makes me useless also .... :thanks:
 
that how i figure it melted it was tight ...then it didnt start last night ...this morning the negitive battery wire was loose ...so i took off and it was melted under the wire itself that made it loose ..couldnt tell it was melted till wire was off ...it was for sure tight when installed
 
well i sent the new battery back to interstate with my brother ...guess ill find out soon what there going to do ....its rather obvious it the bikes fault ...so not to clear how the warranty thing will go ...but at least ill know soon ...
 
If there was enough of a short, or super-excessive resistance somewhere, I'd have to think that the smoke would be coming out of the wires somewhere before it would melt the battery post like that. Melting like that would seem to indicate a problem at the connection right there, but....what the heck is powered up with the bike/key turned OFF? Seems to me that if something on the bike was causing it, then you would have gotten some pretty healthy sparks when you hooked the new battery up.
I bet the dang lead(or whatever substitute they're using these days) for the battery post was faulty. But still....what is drawing power with the key OFF? Is there voltage going to the stator with the key off? :headscratch:
 
well i certainly cant answer these ? ...im looking for help .....these 1000s have the screwyest wiring i ever seen ...you cant make heads or tales out of the wiring diagram ....reserve lighting unit ...huge resistor pack looks to be connected to that with 4 different resistor ...all the lighting goes through there ....just insane stuff ..people wonder why i dog the engineering sometimes on the oldwing ...no smart person did this stuff
 
we have fan motor ... we have oil light ...we have lights and all ...we have stator and i have 1980 reg-ret ....we have c5....past this i could care less about the rest of the wiring ...
 
Given the bike's age, you could have internal corrosion in the wiring harness and not see any outward signs until the smoke escapes. Melting the terminal takes a bunch of amps, so I would look for hidden shorts on the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid and then to the starter.

Any chance the solenoid or starter developed a massive short?

My 78 has screwed up wiring (but runs) and I want to put a new harness eventually.

EBay has several harnesses starting at $13 and running up to $100.
Here is a sample https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Honda-Gold ... Se&vxp=mtr

There are wiring schematics here on the web site (you know that better than most). If you don't have a wiring schematic for the 1000, I can scan one in and PM it to you.

Tom
 
Thats a good deal on purples link for the wiring harness. I remember someone was printing poster size wiring schematics in full color, I think it was over at NGWF..That would be an easy chart to read...Maybe a small color could be blown up at staples or other print works.
Good luck with it.
 
ok its pretty obvious ...its going to be driving blind ...as mention the wiring is total bs ..that was all droped in 78yr ...and then never used again ....the reserve lighting unit ..is a massive intersection of unexplain bs ...that basically has about everything involved in it ...mine was bypassed ...but before that it caused huge lighting problems ...that seem to move around ...the whole deal now seems to be like that maybe that unit is still involve and causing the battery problem ...

it rained all day mostly here so had no opportunity to do much yet ....and as mention the info and drawing are useless and just brainless bs of unexplained nightmare of engineering ...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165912#p165912:1x8sqm4m said:
AApple » Sat Jan 09, 2016 4:36 am[/url]":1x8sqm4m]
If there was enough of a short, or super-excessive resistance somewhere, I'd have to think that the smoke would be coming out of the wires somewhere before it would melt the battery post like that. Melting like that would seem to indicate a problem at the connection right there, but....what the heck is powered up with the bike/key turned OFF? Seems to me that if something on the bike was causing it, then you would have gotten some pretty healthy sparks when you hooked the new battery up.
I bet the dang lead(or whatever substitute they're using these days) for the battery post was faulty. But still....what is drawing power with the key OFF? Is there voltage going to the stator with the key off? :headscratch:
with this problem it pays to start at the beginning. check continuity from the battery to the ignition switch. big bloody red wire. that is the only way ( logically ) that a short can occur with the key off. isolate the ignition switch first.
 
your right aussiegold ...the one thing i did yesterday was kill that red wire that goes through the wiring harness ...so now there is a completely no hot wire running through the honda wiring harness ...it still seems to make no difference ....ok my next move is to look at the wiring at the key switch ...witch was also giving me problems and the lights were going on and off through the switch ...so i ended up hot wiring the ignition switch set up ...

i basically separated the hot wire witch is now separate from the wiring harness and the rest of the ignition switch wires ...they are tied together ...to a female connector and the hot wire is on a male connector ..when i plug this in there was no more light problems and things seem to fine ....

after looking yesterday really hard in the wiring diagram ...its appears there one wire that dosnt need to be in the mix in the key on position ....this wire is the park switch wire ....and the brown and green stripe wire at the switch ....this is probably my last hope at a easy fix ...i am hoping having this wire in the mix of the other ignition switch wires somehow is the cause of a short or battery drain ... like in the off position ...when no hot wire is connected up ....seems when bike is running stator is charging lights are great ...and it will crank back up after a brief stop ...but if it sits the battery dies ...and it seems to be getting worst ...

im really hoping this is it ..i dont mind it being my fault and except the blame if this works ...but i have my doubts this is going to matter ....it is my next move ...

suns up and its fixing to happen now ....and aussie it be great to have a few beers :beer: :beer: :hihihi:
 
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