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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: November 27th, 2017, 3:30 pm

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Location: Columbia SC
Local time: December 13th, 2017, 4:31 pm
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My Rides: Kawasaki KZ440 LTD 1983
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I saw some sad folks in the parking lot last week and tried to charge their battery for them. After about 20 minutes or so, it clearly wasn't taking a charge and I told them they'd probably need a new battery.
Last night I started up and made a grocery store run with no apparent issue (that I noticed).
This morning, she barely started and I assumed it was because of the freeze last night. Once she started, though, the voltage gauge never got above 11v all the way to work, though the bike ran fine. When I stopped at a gas station, I had to push start because the starter motor didn't even try to move.
At the end of the day, though, I got a co-worker to help me experiment. We hooked the jumper cables up and let him charge my battery for about five minutes and then unhooked the cables and started it to see whether the battery was holding a charge or the stator was failing to charge the battery. The voltage gauge showed the proper 12v while he was charging it, but dropped to 10.5v once she started. This makes me think it's the stator and I'm wondering if trying to jump start a car was an extremely stupid idea.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: November 27th, 2017, 4:12 pm

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Tough one. These stators do not hold up well to jumping a car battery, there just isn't enough amperage. Would the stator short? Hmmmm...I don't really know. What type of battery? If it is a lead acid battery, you could have shorted the cells. Easy to check with a battery tester.

I have an AGM battery that ran down from parasitic load (iPod was left on for a week). The battery dropped to 10V. I put my charger on and brought it up to 12.2 and started the bike. But the stator could not charge the battery at that low of a voltage and carry the normal load of the bike.

I had to charge the battery for a good 8 hours to get the resting voltage up to 12.8 volts. Started the bike and the voltage went up to the normal 14.8 volts with no problem. It is important to remember, the stator does not replace a fully charged battery and cannot charge a dead battery.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: November 27th, 2017, 4:44 pm

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I've had it on slow charge (2A) for about 2 hours now with the battery kill switch off (disconnects the ground strap) in case of voltage drain and the gauge on the battery charger is still at 0%.
The voltage gauge on the handlebars showed 12.5v, though, and she started right up.
Don't have a battery tester, but I checked the voltage on the battery with a multimeter after I got to work and it showed 12.3 but wouldn't even budge the starter motor (and the gauge on the handlebars fell all the way left when I hit the starter button).

Also when I was trying to charge those people's battery, the voltage gauge on the handlebars showed showed 10v when I first connected the jumper cables and I didn't tell them to try and start it until the voltage had climbed up to 12v. Also that was Tuesday and I had no problem going to and from work Wednesday or last night, though I didn't go anywhere thursday through saturday so idk. Also after the electrical problems I had last year, I kinda have a habit of checking the voltage gauge regularly, so I'd like to think I'd have noticed if it was low on Wednesday or Saturday.

I'm still hoping it's the battery, but I'm going to re-read the instructions for that Poor Boy mod just in case...

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: November 27th, 2017, 7:14 pm

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hope It’s not the stator ....

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: November 27th, 2017, 7:41 pm

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Yes - a dilemma at best. Agree with Gerry, take the battery out and use an industrial charger at the recommended charging amps. Take the battery to a battery shop and have it load tested, generally do it for free - hope to sell you a new battery. This will answer the question regarding the battery. The load test is the important part. Charging the battery and trying to start the bike will only indicate that the battery does not have sufficient charge to turn the starter - may or may not be an indicator of battery condition. When you load test a battery you can see the condition of the battery and watch how it reacts to a high resistance load, and how it recovers after the load is removed.

Good luck.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 10:15 am

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Sure and check your stator wires for damage, maybe just finished off a weak wire.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 12:13 pm

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Load test battery for sure then check connectors, could have fried one of those

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 1:00 pm

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More than likely it is the battery not the stator. When the small capacity bike battery delivered its all while cranking the car it more than likely collapsed a cell. As Gerry said properly charge your battery and get it load tested. :good:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 3:27 pm

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maybe a the battery short circuit!?

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 3:38 pm

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Checked the stator wire voltages when I got to work yesterday morning and had 4.3, 4.8, and 0.2.
...so it's the stator.
Charged the bike last night and by the time I got to the gas station I had to push start it.
But
I charged it while I was at work today, and as I rode home I started to wonder if there was maybe a dead short causing that 0.2v (the wire was also noticably hot). So when I got home, I left it idling and unhooked the wire (no connector, they've been wire-nutted with jumpers for over a year now) and tested again.
4.3, 4.8, 6.3
6.3?! So I reconnected the wire.
I checked the voltage at the battery and had 12.5 even though the handlebar gauge read just under 11 (and the accessory screws that power the voltage gauge read 11.7 on the multimeter, I don't know who to trust anymore...). At this point, I'd been riding and idling for about the same amount of time that it took me to get to the gas station this morning, and had only reconnected the 0.2/6.3 wire for about five minutes, but when I shut her off she started right back up like normal.

I'm still keeping it on slow-charge overnight and probably should get the battery checked, but I'm still going to go ahead and collect the parts for the Poorboy conversion because I think the 6.3 might still be a bad sign (do failing stators do that?). *maybe* I didn't have a proper connection on the wires when I read the 0.2 and now its fixed, or maybe there's a nick in the wire going from the stator connection to the reg/ret (or wherever it goes once it jumps into the wiring harness) and I wiggled it the right way, idk.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 4:06 pm

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Hmmmmm actually I’d disconnect all three stator wires from harness and start bike and check voltage again ....it’s sounding like to me stator is good ....reading might even out more checking like this ...if stator is good ...need to go over all the wires past stator ...there’s one wire junction hidden under the black tape wiring harness...this is where hooch bike was shorting out ...took me awhile to figure that out ...I knew nothing about this junction at the time found it in frustration mode of ripping the bike apart ... :rant:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 4:20 pm

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I guess that it doesn't matter, but how old is the battery? These small batteries don't last that long. At least mine don't. I would still have it load tested before I put any money into things.

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I couldn't fix my brakes, so I made the horn louder.

The motor started knocking. Turned up the radio

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: November 28th, 2017, 4:30 pm

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When they tried jumping the car was your motor running? Did the car start while your motor was running? If it did you probably fried diodes in the reg/rec.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#14  Unread postPosted: November 30th, 2017, 3:10 pm

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So apparently it was just the bad connection on one stator wire. Haven't put it on the charger since tuesday and she's behaving properly again now.
Still going to collect parts for the Poorboy just in case. Since it seems that I should be reading 14+ at the battery when she's running and I'm only getting 12.5 and that doesn't seem to go up noticably when revving the engine, and the 6.8v on one stator lead is outside of what seems to be the "normal" range.

Thank you, everyone, for the input.

Current theory:
The factory plug for the stator wires was already gone when I got the bike. It had sta-con connectors which were overheating because the contact area was too small for the amperage, so I trimmed away the burnt wire and made jumpers with #12 THHN solid wire and wire-nuts. I'm thinking that vibration and/or heat caused enough of the strands to burn/break off over time and the attempt to charge the car battery burned out the remaining strands so that one lead was no longer getting contact. I didn't notice that the strands I saw wrapped around the solid wire were just frayed bits of the insulation when I read 0.2v due to lack of copper contact (can't be sure of that, though, time machine is on back-order).

I still want to get the battery tested (just in case) and check the stator voltage on all three wires while disconnected, but the job I'm on is about to wrap up so a lot of last-minute overtime to get the building ready for inspection has eaten up all my time. Will report in one more time this weekend when I've had time to investigate further. For now I'm just happy and relieved that I don't have to pull the motor.

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We can rebuild her. We have the technology. We can make her better than she was.
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#15  Unread postPosted: November 30th, 2017, 3:19 pm

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What a story, glad it's fixed. I wonder how many stators have been changed because of a bad connection. :?

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