KB's HF trailer build

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kerryb

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
999
Reaction score
151
Location
Buffalo, NY
Thanks...for all those who posted about trailers...it's all YOUR FAULT, that I'm going to try my hand at building a pop-up camper to pull with my wing.
Yesterday I picked up the trailer kit at Harbor Freight. 40" X 48" with 12" wheels for $190.00. That was on sale and they took the 20% super coupon...wuhoo!
I want to copy this design that I found on youtube.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiUq8Z1M ... w&index=14)

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiUq8Z1M_Xs&list=PLwte06IxWkbLgUUfHHZXgYLeMBc6Swlew&index=14[/video]

I won't use the hydraulics and I'm going to keep the standard HF suspension with one leaf removed.
I've built some kayaks with wood, glass, and epoxy so the foam and glass building technique shouldn't be too hard. I want to try for a shape something like the one shown below. My research however tells me the big end goes in front!.
Decisions I still need to make are how much to narrow the trailer, and how to include the cooler inside the aerodynamic envelope.

The trade-off I'm making is to spend more time and money to get a lighter trailer which is still self contained.
Wish me luck, this may be a long time coming, but hey, Its November and I won't need it till June.
 

Attachments

  • trailer body1.jpg
    trailer body1.jpg
    13.6 KB · Views: 403
See if you can install a Weber 740 carby near the cooler as well. :smilie_happy:
I look forward to seeing your efforts and final reward in time for riding season. :good:
 
put the cooler as close to the camper as you can..it should have a null effect if any on the air flow.. the wing will give a slight disturbance already... you can incorporate into your design a place for your cooler that adds to good airflow..
 
The plan is to put cooler inside, like a drawer that pulls out the side for access...but we are a ways off from solving that issue.
Here is the mockup of the axle and leaf spring with two short leaves removed. Just for kicks I stood on the single spring to see how much it compresses under load and it didn't even flinch under my 135 lbs. I guess that's where the 1000+ load capacity comes from.
With the axle mounted on top of the spring there is just over 3" of room for travel. With a predicted load of under 350 lbs. I don't think the axle will bottom out. any opinions would be welcome.

kb
 

Attachments

  • axlemockup1.jpg
    axlemockup1.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 373
  • 2leaves.jpg
    2leaves.jpg
    46.7 KB · Views: 375
Measure your clearance when the frame is totally build and sitting on the wheels on the ground and again when the topper is completed.. and if available what you would add to go tripping.. then seed if your clearance has decreased.. then you know whether to change axle spring setup to avoid clearance issues.. just thinking out loud here.. and more pics as you go on into this..
 
kb-
I had the same issue when I built my trailer; I removed all but the main leaf and it is still too stiff for the loads I carry...
I'm thinking I need, somehow, to decrease the stiffness of the one remaining spring. What occurred to me was removing the springs and drilling holes down the center line to reduce the strength. I seldom carry over 300lb. and the springs are just too stiff.

Whatcha think?
:headscratch: :headscratch: :headscratch:
 
That is some interesting info... Some years ago I needed new springs for my Dodge Rampage pickup truck. The best ,(least expensive) way to get them was to go to Buffalo Spring Co. here in Buffalo, NY and have a set custom made. I think they were $100.00 for the pair at that time. With that in mind, I'll continue with the build and change the springs if needed at the end. I could just put the axle back under the spring but that won't change the spring rate any.
A comment on drilling holes in the springs Kywinger is that the metal is tempered and will be a lot of work to drill through, and how would you determine the best hole size for reliability. I would hate to have a spring break at speed!

always an adventure...kb
 
Brian, the tent is sandwiched between the lid and an inner cargo cover lid above the cargo area. Including fabric, poles, padded cover and storm cover, the needed height should be under 8". This should leave me close to 16" deep of cargo space.

kb

Edit...on second thought maybe you wanted to know where to tent was/is sourced from. If that's it then I will make the tent. When I was a kid I asked mom to show me how to sew 'cause my 240z needed new seat covers and I didn't have money to buy them. She did, I did, and I still have the sewing machine. I can sew well enough to make basic stuff like tents and backpacks, and seat covers.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=104145#p104145:2jamiouu said:
kerryb » Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:48 am[/url]":2jamiouu]
A comment on drilling holes in the springs Kywinger is that the metal is tempered and will be a lot of work to drill through, and how would you determine the best hole size for reliability. I would hate to have a spring break at speed!

always an adventure...kb

Good point!

Anyone have any ideas on a way (cheap & safe) to lower the spring rate on an HF trailer??
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=104163#p104163:2elyl3ay said:
KYWinger » Fri Nov 29, 2013 1:55 pm[/url]":2elyl3ay]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=104145#p104145:2elyl3ay said:
kerryb » Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:48 am[/url]":2elyl3ay]
A comment on drilling holes in the springs Kywinger is that the metal is tempered and will be a lot of work to drill through, and how would you determine the best hole size for reliability. I would hate to have a spring break at speed!

always an adventure...kb

Good point!

Anyone have any ideas on a way (cheap & safe) to lower the spring rate on an HF trailer??

Heat strengthened them, so heating them will also take some of the strength out of them. I guess the balance will be how much is too much.
 
This is a bummer. Was nearly finished a reply & had to leave the 'puter for a minute & came back & everything go. If you are set on using the stock single leaf spring another way to control the bounce is to loose some of the air pressure. Horse haulers use no springs @ all but use air pressure to control bounce. My trailer is nearly done but what with my health problems & the fact that I have no bike @ this moment. Hopefully I'll get it done this coming summer. See fysty-1's gallery for pics. Cheers Angela :music2: :yahoo:
 
Top