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Terry

Terry

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
548
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1
Location
Houston, Texas
After watching several how to video's on timing belt changing I decide the one by Littlebeaver looked the most sure method.

I followed his method but removed my radiator which made access much easier.

I rotated the engine around to the T1 mark on the flywheel made sure up was up (on the cogs) and that #1 was on the compression stroke.
I verified repeatedly the crank T1 mark, the outer marks matching the cogs and the timing case. I locked the cam cogs down via 19mm sockets thru the holes while on their marks then marked the crankshaft itself with a sharpie.

Checked and rechecked marks were on. Released tension rollers and removed old belts.

When I went to put the new belts on I noticed they were about a half a notch off.

Sure enough crank mark moved just a fraction.

Now with the new belts in position and the tension rollers resprung but bolts not tighted.

Crank mark I made a hair off and flywheel mark of a couple of degrees.

Where do I go from this point?
 
i guess that bolts not tighten...means belts not tight ... the little beaver method is all right but its not the best way at all to me and it leaves out the most important part ..tensioning the belts ...rotate motor as is by hand with crank bolt ...preferably without plugs in head ... as you rotate to check for clearence and any resitance ..like valve hitting piston you will see the belts get tighter and looser as you turn ...this is from vavle springs tension going back and forth ...there is a spot where both belt tighten up on tension side of belts ..at this spot adjust the tensioners ...personally i just push tensioner up with my hand till belt slack is gone ...no added presure ..just belts with slack gone and tighten tensioner both sides done same way ....you can do belts one at a time to it makes no difference ..after doing that check timing again by hand on crank bolt if all clear for 3 turns at least .. check timing marks they will be either spot on or one tooth off ....always no power use all things done by hand till belts are right
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157667#p157667:glawnd6x said:
joedrum » 50 minutes ago[/url]":glawnd6x]
i guess that bolts not tighten...means belts not tight ... the little beaver method is all right but its not the best way at all to me and it leaves out the most important part ..tensioning the belts ...rotate motor as is by hand with crank bolt ...preferably without plugs in head ... as you rotate to check for clearence and any resitance ..like valve hitting piston you will see the belts get tighter and looser as you turn ...this is from vavle springs tension going back and forth ...there is a spot where both belt tighten up on tension side of belts ..at this spot adjust the tensioners ...personally i just push tensioner up with my hand till belt slack is gone ...no added presure ..just belts with slack gone and tighten tensioner both sides done same way ....you can do belts one at a time to it makes no difference ..after doing that check timing again by hand on crank bolt if all clear for 3 turns at least .. check timing marks they will be either spot on or one tooth off ....always no power use all things done by hand till belts are right
Click to expand...


Joe,
Just to be clear:
I did not tighten the tension rollers with a wrench yet. They are only finger tight and the springs are loaded or attached.
I have not moved the crank "at all" with the stator bolt after I saw timing mark was now slightly off.
I stopped when this happened.
Also something littlebeaver said was that the spring pressure was enough on the belts. I guess you are saying, not true.
It doesn't seem like enough tension on the belts to me either.
 
useally after id tension belts there is useally about 1/4" deflextion in the belt both ways added together..just enough growth room for heated motor increase ..thats why you dont add pressure just take slack out ..but to much slack actually starts making the timing wonder as in spark gettin off and bouncing back and forth just like a loose belts looks like its doing
 
You need to start over and keep checking that the crank is still at tdc. It tends to move pretty easily while fitting the belts.
Do you have the valve adjusters loosened all the way loose? Like I mentioned on the phone, this makes the job a little easier.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157686#p157686:3osbhlck said:
dan filipi » 12 minutes ago[/url]":3osbhlck]
You need to start over and keep checking that the crank is still at tdc. It tends to move pretty easily while fitting the belts.
Do you have the valve adjusters loosened all the way loose? Like I mentioned on the phone, this makes the job a little easier.
Click to expand...

I rotated 3 revolutions just like Joe said and looked again.
Looking from the front of the engine:
With Flywheel dead on TDC 1 mark
Mark that I made on crank with sharpie dead on lined up
Left cam sprocket mark dead on lined up with the mark on timing belt case mark
Right cam sprocket mark 1 tooth above scribed mark on timing belt case

Sorry Dan,
I did omit loosening off the rockers, I didn't have a feeler gauge and wanted to reduce oil drippage/valve adjustment mess for another day.
 
Sounds like you have the right side off by one tooth. Put a 12mm wrench on the head of the bolt that holds that cam spracket on and use that for leverage as you slip the belt back on at the correct tooth - If you did not loosen the valve adjusters, you are fighting the valve springs...
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157694#p157694:mezqwm6v said:
brianinpa » 2 minutes ago[/url]":mezqwm6v]
Sounds like you have the right side off by one tooth. Put a 12mm wrench on the head of the bolt that holds that cam spracket on and use that for leverage as you slip the belt back on at the correct tooth - If you did not loosen the valve adjusters, you are fighting the valve springs...
Click to expand...

Exactly, it's 1 tooth off. Yes the valve spring pressure is fighting against me, you can't turn it by hand. I just didn't want to get radical and manhandle it with a wrench. If we are sure backing the sprocket up a tooth with a wrench won't hurt anything,
I will do it.

In case no one has guessed:
I am a total virgin on changing the timing belts for a Goldwing so I am being very cautious.
 
It worked for me, and you are turning the sprocket without the belt on... Just don't turn the sprocket and camshaft through one complete revolution. It is more like you are holding the sprocket in place with the wrench and not really manhandling it.
 
What I did with mine once the belt was on the right mark is to turn the crank another turn to TDC and loosen the right side belt again so it isn't fighting valve spring pressure while setting belt tension, think the service manual says to do that, or maybe it was in a thread.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157691#p157691:27dfaye6 said:
Terry » Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:37 pm[/url]":27dfaye6]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157686#p157686:27dfaye6 said:
dan filipi » 12 minutes ago[/url]":27dfaye6]
You need to start over and keep checking that the crank is still at tdc. It tends to move pretty easily while fitting the belts.
Do you have the valve adjusters loosened all the way loose? Like I mentioned on the phone, this makes the job a little easier.
Click to expand...

I rotated 3 revolutions just like Joe said and looked again.
Looking from the front of the engine:
With Flywheel dead on TDC 1 mark
Mark that I made on crank with sharpie dead on lined up
Left cam sprocket mark dead on lined up with the mark on timing belt case mark
Right cam sprocket mark 1 tooth above scribed mark on timing belt case

Sorry Dan,
I did omit loosening off the rockers, I didn't have a feeler gauge and wanted to reduce oil drippage/valve adjustment mess for another day.
Click to expand...
All this for want of a $3.00 feeler gauge? And here I thought I was the tightwad.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157714#p157714:2jwf65f1 said:
slabghost » Yesterday, 9:28 pm[/url]":2jwf65f1]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157691#p157691:2jwf65f1 said:
Terry » Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:37 pm[/url]":2jwf65f1]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157686#p157686:2jwf65f1 said:
dan filipi » 12 minutes ago[/url]":2jwf65f1]
You need to start over and keep checking that the crank is still at tdc. It tends to move pretty easily while fitting the belts.
Do you have the valve adjusters loosened all the way loose? Like I mentioned on the phone, this makes the job a little easier.
Click to expand...

I rotated 3 revolutions just like Joe said and looked again.
Looking from the front of the engine:
With Flywheel dead on TDC 1 mark
Mark that I made on crank with sharpie dead on lined up
Left cam sprocket mark dead on lined up with the mark on timing belt case mark
Right cam sprocket mark 1 tooth above scribed mark on timing belt case

Sorry Dan,
I did omit loosening off the rockers, I didn't have a feeler gauge and wanted to reduce oil drippage/valve adjustment mess for another day.
Click to expand...
All this for want of a $3.00 feeler gauge? And here I thought I was the tightwad.
Click to expand...


Ha, ha.
I know it sounds that way but not so much. I owned one but when I looked the smallest size blade it has just above the spec.
No place very near me to buy one, didn't want to make yet another trip into town.
 
I want thank you all for your help, tips, and suggestions, and patience.


My project bike is now in perfect time.
Checked, rechecked, scrutinized, checked again.................and again LOL
Perfect on all the marks exactly every time.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157754#p157754:h56kpplp said:
Terry » Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:15 am[/url]":h56kpplp]
I want thank you all for your help, tips, and suggestions, and patience.


My project bike is now in perfect time.
Checked, rechecked, scrutinized, checked again.................and again LOL
Perfect on all the marks exactly every time.
Click to expand...


:clapping:

Terry... you aren't finished yet. Now is the time to adjust the valve clearance.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157764#p157764:7aa7cb37 said:
brianinpa » 37 minutes ago[/url]":7aa7cb37]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157754#p157754:7aa7cb37 said:
Terry » Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:15 am[/url]":7aa7cb37]
I want thank you all for your help, tips, and suggestions, and patience.


My project bike is now in perfect time.
Checked, rechecked, scrutinized, checked again.................and again LOL
Perfect on all the marks exactly every time.
Click to expand...


:clapping:

Terry... you aren't finished yet. Now is the time to adjust the valve clearance.
Click to expand...


Yes I know, it is on a very long list of to do's on this bike. I was going to do the valve clearance check/adjustment along with an oil change and some other things.
 

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