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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 11:38 am

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As folks here already know, I've acquired a dual Weber 40 setup and will be going down that path this fall as the weather becomes more conducive to extended garage sessions here in the Phoenix Metro area.

With my '78, I'd like to get a little more "breathing" duration with the early cams to exploit the available flow from the Webers. I have scanned the archives a bit, but didn't see anything about distinguishing marks on cams. Or heads for that matter. The most resolution I've seen is engine case castings.

Sorry if this is common knowledge, but if I run across "loose" cams, how can I be assured they're early ones?

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 1:05 pm

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Im not sure how to tell the difference, but I know where there is a pair that came out of a 77.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 1:33 pm

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Hmm. Well, ask the rascal who's got them what kind of miles are on them, how the surfaces look and, if nice, what he'd want for them shipped from PA to AZ.

Thanks for the idea, Brian.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 1:52 pm

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Took a gander at Old Fogey's website and saw a blurb that reminded me that these aren't small block Chevy's and need proper care and feeding.

I hope he won't mind if I quote that passage here. It's important:
Quote:
Very important. If you need to change or renew cams, you must also used the rockers that came with that cam and make sure that each rocker goes with the cam lobe it came from!

There is very good reason for this.

This is because the cams and followers wear into one another.
The cams are only rough sand castings before being machined and not very accurate castings at that!


Meaning that obtaining just the cams would probably not end well. Would need the entire top assembly - or heck, complete heads. Thanks anyway, Brian.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 3:08 pm

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Hog wash ...to me ...parts mixing is the only way to maybe get things better and tighter ...to,each there own...

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 3:17 pm

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Hog wash ...to me ...parts mixing is the only way to maybe get things better and tighter ...to,each there own...

Agreed.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 3:22 pm

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Oh desert the cams are identified by having no numbers on them ...those are the early 371 cams ..all,others are number 434 I think is 78-79 cams ..464 cams are 1100 cams ...

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 4:17 pm

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Location: Lebanon, PA
Local time: August 20th, 2017, 5:49 am
Country:  United States (us)
My Rides: 1984 GL1200 Standard - 18,000 miles

1987 GL1200 Interstate - 61,000

Profile Personal album

Took a gander at Old Fogey's website and saw a blurb that reminded me that these aren't small block Chevy's and need proper care and feeding.

I hope he won't mind if I quote that passage here. It's important:
Quote:
Very important. If you need to change or renew cams, you must also used the rockers that came with that cam and make sure that each rocker goes with the cam lobe it came from!

There is very good reason for this.

This is because the cams and followers wear into one another.
The cams are only rough sand castings before being machined and not very accurate castings at that!


Meaning that obtaining just the cams would probably not end well. Would need the entire top assembly - or heck, complete heads. Thanks anyway, Brian.


I understand the idea and know that this subject causes of lot of angst but parts are made to be changeable.

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Brian
Retired US Navy 1983-2003
If you aren't having fun doing it, find something else to do.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 4:23 pm

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Sooo...does that mean that the fellow who "knows where there is a pair" would be willing to part with them? I'm willing to go for it. Even if the "new" cams get all scored up from hardened followers already run in, I'd have the original cams. And they're not exactly rare - yet.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 4:32 pm

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1987 GL1200 Interstate - 61,000

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Yea as I no longer have any plans to put 1100 heads with 1000 cams on a 1200 motor. I have no idea how many miles were on the motor. How about $30 plus postage?

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Retired US Navy 1983-2003
If you aren't having fun doing it, find something else to do.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 5:44 pm

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Well if desert doesn't want them I do Brian

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 7:22 pm

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Yea as I no longer have any plans to put 1100 heads with 1000 cams on a 1200 motor. I have no idea how many miles were on the motor. How about $30 plus postage?


I'd be happy to take them for that. Postage won't be too bad. Appreciate it - and the forum for allowing this activity outside the "standard" area.

But, it fits the topic title and is a happy ending. Well, start of a happy ending anyway.

Brian, please switch to PM and we'll settle up.

(Sorry Joe, but I'm really going to need these things).

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 7:35 pm

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No problem

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#14  Unread postPosted: August 3rd, 2017, 7:48 pm

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...and thanks for the info on the cam numbers. If I had been out looking, I wouldn't know one from another. Guess now I would.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#15  Unread postPosted: August 16th, 2017, 7:07 pm

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There is very good reason for this.

This is because the cams and followers wear into one another.
The cams are only rough sand castings before being machined and not very accurate castings at that!
[/quote]

Meaning that obtaining just the cams would probably not end well. Would need the entire top assembly - or heck, complete heads. Thanks anyway, Brian.[/quote]

I understand the idea and know that this subject causes of lot of angst but parts are made to be changeable.[/quote]

I understand the idea and know that this subject causes of lot of angst but NEW parts are made to be changeable.
Sorry guys, but what I wrote is in no way hog-wash. If you don't pay attention to that you can wipe out a cam in no time.

Oh desert the cams are identified by having no numbers on them ...those are the early 371 cams ..all,others are number 434 I think is 78-79 cams ..464 cams are 1100 cams ...

78-79 cams are numbered 431, 1100 cams are 463. You should also use a 371 advancer and remark the crank timing marks when using the early cams.

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( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? ) :shock:


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