GL1100 RATTLING NOISE

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Ok back to the drawing board.
I was nice to it today and changed spark plugs,caps,wires.
Started it up and it will idle for a while and then it will automatic drop idle way down to stalling. If I idle the motor up with idle screw it will run for a minute or two and idle will drop again to low. I have rev it up and it will come to a nice idle speed and then after minute or so idle will stop way down. rev it up and let go of throttle and it idles good again, and then will drop again. It sounds like I have a miss to. I had bike idling and when and try to adjust pilot screws and #2 and #4 don't change sound or way motor runs. If fact #2 #4 pilot screws are turn all the way in and motor sounds same.
Also when idling about every 2 minutes it will back fire thru the carb plenum which looks like its #4 carb.
So I figured pull the carbs and will go back thru them again.
But after pulling carbs I figured I start to build the PVC manifold with 34pict 3 carb. but I don't have any cement. So that came to a stop.
Figured well I will mow my yard. Garden tractor quits half way done. So I said screw it and went and brought a 6 pack and going to watch race the rest of afternoon.
 
Well took carb rack off and started to clean carbs again. I did get #1 #3 carbs done. Have to do #2 #4 carbs and then try it again.
My son surprised me by telling me he brought a single carburetor conversion kit for me to try out. I think it's the empi 34 pict 3 carburetor. Will see when I get it.
 
Well I got the carbs clean and put together with no leak's. Installed on bike today and adjusted valves. Got sync gauge out and did the best I could. Now on the pilot screws on bottom of carbs I have then out two and half full turns. I think my #1 cylinder as a bad valve seal because when running it smokes some from just under exhaust pipe at the head and you can smell oil burning. Also after running awhile 5-7 minutes I shut bike off and after 5 minutes sitting the left side head and exhaust were almost cold but right side was hot exhaust and the right head was hot. Its still not to my likey. I have new plug wires and caps to install.
Also what does the pilot screw adjust?
I took video showing it running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz8SqZZKvXY

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz8SqZZKvXY[/video]
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=147751#p147751:1jigyjfm said:
auctioneeral » 8 minutes ago[/url]":1jigyjfm]
Well I got the carbs clean and put together with no leak's. Installed on bike today and adjusted valves. Got sync gauge out and did the best I could. Now on the pilot screws on bottom of carbs I have then out two and half full turns. I think my #1 cylinder as a bad valve seal because when running it smokes some from just under exhaust pipe at the head and you can smell oil burning. Also after running awhile 5-7 minutes I shut bike off and after 5 minutes sitting the left side head and exhaust were almost cold but right side was hot exhaust and the right head was hot. Its still not to my likey. I have new plug wires and caps to install.
Also what does the pilot screw adjust?
I took video showing it running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz8SqZZKvXY
Sounds like it's not firing on all 4.
How do the plugs look?
 
Dan This time around I did not check plugs. But before I took carbs back off to clean again. The #1 was black and oily and other 3 cylinders were like a white/tan color dry. Thats the reason I took carbs back off to clean because I figured it was running rich. I swapped out the coil packs because #2 when I pull plug wire off it did not change anything sound or anything. That was back at post 184 when I had a bad day going.

And tonight I ran out of day light to pull them. I do know when I pulled them before #1 was blackish and oily.

When I get back to working on it Sunday and Monday my days off, I will pull them and check.
 
If you have oil level a bit low add 4-6oz of atf to the oil. It often cleans up the valve seals well enough they reseal.
What you are calling pilot screws are mixture screws and 2 1/2 turns out is the base setting. Each needs adjusted to obtain highest idle possible. Reset idle to 1000rpm then adjust next to highest idle possible. Do this to all four carbs. Then repeat the procedure once more. Not fun but you will not get the best out of your carbs until you do. The procedure is in the repair manuals. Personally I stop short of the idle drop procedure as I feel it's counter productive. At best it may improve mpg slightly. But not enough to make it worth doing idle drop to me.
 
Problem with the stock carbs is they need to be pristine inside, slides need to move freely, they depend on the proper vacuum to work right.
Idle jets are tiny and plug easy. Too many moving parts. Let them sit too long with gas in them, more problems.
This all just my opinion of course :BigGrin:
 
Congrats!! Solex seems to be an easier carb to adjust for these old wings. Start a new thread for your build. I'm always interested in the different ways these builds go.
 
Well it was the empi 34 pict 3 carburetor and a metal manifold. So now I guess I will try to hook this thing up and see how motor runs then.
 

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Well, guy's I'm about ready to throw the towel in. I had a fellow stop over to night who as been riding a long time. I start it up with the carb rack on it and right away says its not running on four cylinders. I let it run about 5 minutes, shut it off and we tested the exhaust pipes at heads. #2 and #4 cold. #4 was a little warm,but #2 was ice cold. #1 #3 hot hot.
So I guess I got to find out why no spark or fuel. I can't believe it would be fuel because carbs have been torn down 3 times now. I just put NEW plugs,wires and plug boots on it. So Sunday I'm going to pull plugs to see what they look like and go from there.
Each coil pack runs #1 #2 and the other #3 #4 correct. So it would be a slim chances that its a bad coil.
How do the start units work in pairs like the coils #1 #2 #3 #4.
 
I would check in this order,

Pull all the plugs, plug them in and lay on the block to get a ground.
Crank it over checking them all for spark.

Next check compression.

If both are good it's carb problems.
 
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