83I Headlight no worky

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Pony Ruiz

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It worked the last time I rode it - last wk.

fuse is good. no power to the plug. Bulb looked ok. Tried another one it - nothing.

That would point to the switch right?

Recommended course of action? Am I going to need to replace the switch? Where to get one of those?

I have heard of doing a relay upgrade to take the load of this 32yo switch.

Anybody do this?

thanks!
 
Ok I'll give that a try first. Why would the start button contacts affect the headlight? Bike starts...

I'm with you J.D. elec. can be a headache -esp. when I know very little about it. Luckily most of my past elec. issues happened (were discovered) parked. I had a bad battery almost left me stranded tho - made it home somehow - not far.

Just when I was thinkin this bike would take me out and back to wherever without issues....... :shock:
Recently went through the carbs to solve a leak. It is running better than ever.

Everything else is working which is good.

thanks
 
Start button disconnects headlight when starter is engaged and once released headlight should come on.
 
Got it.

I was going to do a relay setup I read about somewhere to take the stress off the starter switch. Guess I shall investigate that more now. Not that it would solve bad contacts tho....

My Q now is why would the bike start if contacts are suspect? Different contacts? i.e. the ones that start the bike are clean but the ones that make the light work are dirty?

going to look at it after work

Thanks
 
Had the exact same issue a few years back...no headlight, but all other lights worked. Cleaned the Start button, and all was well. As has been mentioned, when you push the start button, it disconnects the headlight....one less power drain on the battery while cranking the engine. :good:
 
Guys, isn't there a disconnect at the starter relay down by the battery? always thought when you hit the start button it disconnects the lights down there but maybe i`m wrong.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157542#p157542:24zrn3z1 said:
zman » Mon Aug 31, 2015 12:48 pm[/url]":24zrn3z1]
Guys, isn't there a disconnect at the starter relay down by the battery? always thought when you hit the start button it disconnects the lights down there but maybe i`m wrong.
Short answer- no
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157543#p157543:1jqgp7jw said:
slabghost » Tue Sep 01, 2015 3:57 am[/url]":1jqgp7jw]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=157542#p157542:1jqgp7jw said:
zman » Mon Aug 31, 2015 12:48 pm[/url]":1jqgp7jw]
Guys, isn't there a disconnect at the starter relay down by the battery? always thought when you hit the start button it disconnects the lights down there but maybe i`m wrong.
Short answer- no
+1 :yes:
 
the headlight quit on my 85. Turned out to be a faulty connection in the connector next to the fairing on the right side up high. Don't know if the 83 & 85 share the same wiring, but I'd look for a corroded connection. While I was looking for the problem, I put silicon grease in all the connectors to prevent future re-occurrences. So fas, so good.
 
Had a problem with my headlight. Turned out it was the ground in the headlight bucket. I ran a new ground, problem solved
 
So when I do get around to looking inside the switch box (sat.) what do you use to clean the contacts. Spray contact cleaner? Q tips with spray cleaner on them. What am I looking for?

Not my favorite thing to do - take apart switches and such (ex. dashboards :crying: ) Cause inevitably I lose a screw or spring or something doesn't go back together right. Parts are small and delicate. Or its Kinda like trying to put something back into its original packaging - the kind with multiple layers. Stuff seems to always end up outside the box!

I guess I need to chill and just go do it.

thanks again for the help!
 
Spray contact cleaner on q tips is good as is rubbing alcohol. Emory boards work well on heavy corrosion as does 600 wet/dry paper. Just be very care ful in cleaning that you do not lose any parts. Pay attention where each part fits. My hands shake quite a bit and I've done quite a few. Once it's all cleaned up be sure you use dielectric grease on the contacts and the moving parts. You may need to stretch the spring in there just slightly.
 
I had a spare start button/control. Took apart the switch and got it back together again. It took a little faneglin. I didn't see the grooves in the plastic button where the contacts slip into.

I heard a kind of clicking noise in the high/low beam switch when I turned the ignition switch to on. So I took that apart and cleaned the contacts for it.

Then I was going to tackle the start button. One thing leads to another it seems. It looks like I need to get the cables off in order to get the housing off and the switch out. Which means I need to remove a bunch of other stuff to just to loosen up the cables to get them off.
lowers/seat/tank.

Is there an easier way?
 
You can sometimes loosen the housing and slide the entire assembly off the bar. Loosen the cable lock nuts first. Once off you should be able to gain enough space in the parts to get the cables loose. Cables can also be loosened at carbs from the left side if need be. Most lowers do not interfere with reaching the cables but if extended the left one may need removed.
 
Well I just assumed because the fuse did not look bad i.e. not broken, it was not bad. Wrong.

After I went to the effort of cleaning the switch, the headlight still did not work. So decided to replace the fuse with another one. Bingo.

I did also have a bad bulb. But since I had another bulb and was testing both I got them mixed up so can't really say if the one that turned out bad was the one in the bike.

Going ahead with the relay mod for the headlight to take the load off the switch. Hopefully it all works out.

Should be back in bidness soon. :Egyptian:

Thanks all for the input/advice/suggestions/support....etc.
 

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