C5 ignition tune up and Road Trip!

Ya'all know that the C5 ignition I installed last year fixed all the carburetor woes I had.

Because I was afraid of messing it up back then I followed the instructions to the letter, and it worked.

Enough to run a 2,000 mile trip. But here's this. Can I improve upon the bikes kinda/almost, lackluster performance?

So now I'm gonna go down this road. The instructions say that when the red LED comes on, tighten it down, your done.

In my experience of tuning other things with an LED light, (HVAC components mostly) the LED comes on, then gets brighter until it's at its brightest and then begins to fade until it's out. Correct tuning is achieved when the LED is at it's brightest. Now I'm thinking that that 1/64th of an inch of movement of the wheel, (the difference between where I tightened it down and where I would have tightened it down if the LED had been at its brightest) could mean even a degree or so in timing terms.

What do ya'all think? Maybe Paul could chime in here.

hmmm well it would change the timing for sure but im not sure thats the way to go ...the c5 has four timing advance curves on mine and i would say changing the advance curve is the thing to try ....mine was custom programed by paul during the meet and greet yrs ago and the most advance curve work good on my bike ....and there was a difference in the curves ...your might not be set at the best curve for the bike ....this is done close to coils on my bike with the curve wires grounding one and connecting the other together ..im sure theres a info in the forum reference gallery on how the wires should go for the different curves

Agree with Joe try each of the curves and if you are still not satisfied you can ask Paul to program in different curves. I doubt he'd have any problem doing it for you.

There isn't any varying intensity of the light that I've seen but I have thought about moving the wheel a degree or 2 advanced just to see if any more performance could be squeezed from it. I would try it since I'm the type to play like that for the hell of it.

I would suggest installing a rotary switch to take advantage of the other curves on the fly...

I notice a significant difference between the first and second positions of the switch while running around the mountains in NC and TN a few years back, but not much with the other two, but I have never really loaded the motor up since installing the switch to notice anything. Maybe with a heavy trailer I will see a difference. That is where Paul said I would see the difference.

Thanks Fella's. Looks like I'm gonna try my idea first and see what happens!

I do remember though, setting it up for the most tame of the four settings, this may be the reason for the bikes staid performance, even though it has '76 cams.

I'll be letting ya know what happens as soon as I can get this damn alternator nut cover off! :rant:

If you set it for the most tame why bother with the timing cover? Try the other curves.

As I remember, curve 1 is stock timing and advance curve. 2,3 and 4 are progressively retarded curves so if you set it to the least advance (curve 4) you will definitely have sluggish performance under "normal" cruising conditions. I know, I tried it and was surprised the effect when not under a load.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't rotate the motor to see when the light comes on, after setting it first by the book---rotate the degree wheeluntil light comes on. The C5 wheel does move a lot easier than a points plate. In setting points or other electronic ignition this way gets it close but not right on. I've always rotated it through a few revolutions to get it rights from I don't remember ever getting it right moving the plate. That said, there's a big difference in magnetic fields and a focused beam of light.

My bike has 750 curves built in and the most aggressive curve acts like a rev limiter at 7500. It could be that it's just a little too far advanced. I need to get the programming cable and play with some different settings too, but I think I will see where the light comes on in relation to TDC.

theres no doubt the c5 sets a tdc and also takes haft the problems the belts can cause out of the picture ...as points and dyna setups use f1 and f2 marks ...doubling the the chances of being off ...even belt tension is everything with oldwing ...on the positive side the 2 belt system and single cam per side is best set up for reliable function....theres simply no better system out there for oldwings than c5 ...

chilidawg":21jiot4v said:

I'll be letting ya know what happens as soon as I can get this damn alternator nut cover off! :rant:

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So I guess I'll be riding it on this years run as it is, the timing is not getting changed until the alternator nut cover comes off, and it ain't coming off now until the motor is changed out. the thing is totally rounded off! :Awe:

I might still reach in and try the other settings, but I'm fast running out of time.

My Buddy Jon this year will be riding my Harley.

you could take the timing belt cover off and move the crank with the crank bolt.....

Yeah Joe I could do that, but in the limited time I have, I need the answers to a few questions first. what size wrench do I need? and can I do it without messing with the radiator too much? for instance, can it be done with a combo wrench without taking the belts off, or do I have to move the radiator to get a socket on it?

Look I know I've been in there many times before, but I've never put a wrench on that nut and its been a while!

It's a bolt. Not easy to reach but not that difficult either. With timing covers off an open end wrench should do the job handily. Yes the timed belts can stay on. Removing the spark plugs will make turning the crank easier. Removing the radiator lower attaching bolts can gain you a little room too.

it what i use always to move the crank by hand ....i really think that changing the advance curve to the most advanced setting will make your bike run very much better...especially with the early cams in it ...witch is nothing more than changing some wire together and grounding another wire ..ill have to check mine to see what wires is most advance setting

Both sensor wires grounded is highest advance curve on mine. Blue wire grounded, brown wire ungrounded is next. Then brown grounded blue ungrounded, and last-- both ungrounded.

I have mine on a four way rotary switch from an old light stand. I have it under my right leg, but hope to get something up on the bars this year. Behaving yourself should get good mileage on the top setting. Strong right wrist might make you want the next one. Mountains might call for the next.

A VOES must be best.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187804#p187804:3qc9whcq said:

ekvh » Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:07 am[/url]":3qc9whcq]
Both sensor wires grounded is highest advance curve on mine. Blue wire grounded, brown wire ungrounded is next. Then brown grounded blue ungrounded, and last-- both ungrounded.

I have mine on a four way rotary switch from an old light stand. I have it under my right leg, but hope to get something up on the bars this year. Behaving yourself should get good mileage on the top setting. Strong right wrist might make you want the next one. Mountains might call for the next.

A VOES must be best.

Click to expand...

Where is the fun it that????

yah im not interested in voes ...that takes an instant advance system and makes it a late acting system like any other ignition system that uses the after the fact vac system controled ...only thing worse than that is CV carbs on a motor to go alone eith vac ignition to make everything super late acting and dam near impossible to dial in ...nope rotary switch to me ..like brian has is the ultimate c5 set up...hes got everything in his control the the ignition offers :good:

I'm the VOES on mine....down shift if needed.

I just pulled this plug & wiped it with a rag. Honest. :wave:

3000 miles on the road and 9000 miles of usage due to the C5.

I ain't so sure now that there's anything wrong with my set-up.

I think I'm gonna play with the timing curve wires as suggested.