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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: May 4th, 2017, 7:08 pm

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Local time: November 24th, 2017, 7:49 am
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Hello guys, I need some help again.
I just rebuilt the carbs on my 80 GL1100. I used all the parts from a Randakk's complete overhaul kit, with the Howard Halasz overhaul guide. I completed the assembly, and added fuel from my Motion-Pro aux fuel tank, and slowly added fuel to check for leaks. After a few minutes, the plenum chamber started to overflow from the main nozzle in carb #3.
I drained the carb bowls, and back tracked to splitting the plenum again to check for missing
"O" rings, etc. or something I missed. Disassembled twice, same result.
I have used the Randakk's kit, followed all the steps outlined in the guide, even have Clymers guide and Honda factory manual for reference. To the best of my knowledge, all the "O" rings, etc. are in the right place, even the plastic straw. The vacuum slide needles are straight and the tips are fine. No signs of wear.
I split the engine case and replaced rings, fresh taper hone, and refreshed the heads also this winter, so I do have some mechanical knowledge.
What am I missing here? Any thoughts?

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: May 4th, 2017, 8:11 pm

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Float height. The needle valves have tiny detent pins where they meet the float. Set float height with carb rack on end so the weight of the float doesn't depress the spring loaded detent pin. Top carbs. Flip to do the other two. If it still leaks you may need to clean and reuse the stock needle valves and seats. Many have reported replacements did not seal.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: May 4th, 2017, 8:46 pm

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Yep. Sounds like a float problem...

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: May 5th, 2017, 3:17 am

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with stock carbs there are so many small operating window of parts ..almost anything a rack to fail and not see why ...sheesh when you have them out and off the bike and cant find the problem says a lot ...

that feed line and straw deal is like why do this ....sounds to me like it might be leaking before the floats or number 3 float is the problem switch it out with another one and see if that helps ....finding the leak is everything ...the parts are just barely capable of doing the job ....

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: May 5th, 2017, 1:01 pm

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Location: Methuen, Massachusetts
Local time: November 24th, 2017, 7:49 am
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My Rides: 80 GL1100
79 CB750L 10th Ann.Ltd.Ed.
83 CB750SC Nighthawk

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Thanks. I have a spare complete set.
Is this a problem? Set I am working on, are from 82-83 GL11 (VB42C) and were on the 1980 for 70,000 great running miles. They have the removable slow jet. My spare set are for an 80-82 GL11(VB42A). ( Not my original carbs, picked them up at a swap meet.)
From the info I have, 80-81 VB42A, 82-83 VB42C, only difference I see is the C has removable slow jets, and 3 turns on the pilot v.s 1 1/14 on the A.
Are the the float valve and seat compatible? Should I swap out the needle and main jet also, using the original vacuum slide and cover?
Do these parts need to be from a #3 carb?

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: May 5th, 2017, 2:11 pm

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Why not reuse the original needles and jets from the rack you are rebuilding? Entire racks will interchange but 80-81 rack has pressed in jets. I'd reuse the stock original parts where possible.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: May 5th, 2017, 5:43 pm

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Float height will cause that kind of leaking. Did you clean the float needle and seat? I take the needle tip and spin it between my fingers ever so lightly while leaning on plumbers emory cloth. Then I take a Q-tip with a little polish and spin it in the seat.

After cleaning them up and putting everything back together, I always test off the bike. I have a syringe that you use for giving liquid medicine that fits gas hose perfectly. I fill the carbs via the inlet with the syringe and gas hose. I keep filling until all of the bowels are full. Then I clamp the syringe to the hose and force water in. If the floats are set right and the cleaning of the needle point and seat is making a good seal, I will get back pressure on the syringe and cannot force the water in. (This simulates the pressure from the fuel pump.)

While the carbs are pressurized with the water (holding pressure on the syringe), I pick up the carbs and flop them all around to simulate riding in turns. If there is a bad float setup or seat seal that is bad, you will see it right away. I have found that using this procedure also verifies that all of the passages are clear from the inlet to all carbs.

Once I am satisfied with the water test, I empty the water, recheck the floats and perform the same test with gasoline. Again, if no leaks, onto the bike the carbs go (also pre-filled with gasoline).

That is my 2 cents. :yes:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: May 6th, 2017, 5:54 am

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not a teason not to use 3 carb stuff for 3 carb ..i know there some differences on 3 carb in 1000 rack ...i dont think it involves floats seats and stuff ..but no reason to mix things either ...good luck

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: May 6th, 2017, 8:30 am

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Location: Methuen, Massachusetts
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79 CB750L 10th Ann.Ltd.Ed.
83 CB750SC Nighthawk

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I think I will go through the procedures using Gerry's two cents.
One of the problems I created my self, I have been testing for leaks with GAS.
When leaks show up, drain the bowls, flip it over a few times and open the flaps
until empty and start again.
I will use the H2O test from here on.
Let you know how I make out.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: May 6th, 2017, 9:02 am

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yes i think thats a very good way to do it ....great post gerry

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: May 13th, 2017, 5:18 pm

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Location: Methuen, Massachusetts
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79 CB750L 10th Ann.Ltd.Ed.
83 CB750SC Nighthawk

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Well I swapped out the 1 for 3 carb because the 1 did not leak on the other rebuilt set I have.
I have the same issue with that set also, flooding.
I put things back together, bench tested using water and they did not leak. Drained the water and removed the bowls again to remove residual water, and filled with gas. Good so far.
I installed on the bike, and started it up, and with the filter not in place, the bottom of the chamber starts flooding with gas, but still runs. I don't think it is the floats as much as the cross over tube somehow flooding the chamber. It is in that #3 carb area. I does not leak past the plenum gasket.
I am pulling them back off to check again.
What next?

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: May 13th, 2017, 5:27 pm

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Did you reset the floats? Or simply verify they stopped flow? If the level is too high you will get the overflow issue. Detent pins on the needles must be fully extended when the float levels are set.

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Vote NO on taxes, levies, and incumbents.
Every day I learn I know less than I thought I did.
Every time something is made idiot proof. The world produces a better idiot!
Maturity like wisdom seldom arrives without age. Far too often though age arrives without either.
ImageImage Image
Politicians are like diapers. They need changed often. For the same reason.
A fine is tax you pay for doing wrong. A tax is fine you pay for doing well.
Second place makes you first loser.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: June 3rd, 2017, 4:52 pm

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I rebuilt my carbs. Took my time and was very careful. After that, carbs leaked and everything I tried seemed to make things worse. I gave up and chose the single carb route and after a little tweaking with the main jet size, this bike runs amazing. Not to downplay stock carbs by any means but out of frustration the single carb did the trick for me.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#14  Unread postPosted: June 4th, 2017, 2:48 pm

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This might help:
http://www.wingovations.com/float-valve ... 4591640610

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( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of my http://www.wingovations.com website ?? ) :shock:


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#15  Unread postPosted: June 5th, 2017, 4:03 am

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'81 GL1100 - Gave up the ghost to give life to the '82!
1st bike '81 Suzuki GN400

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Good tip John! :thanks:

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Gerry <///><
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