Progressive Spring Questions

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wedoo2

wedoo2

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I am getting ready to change the tires on my 82 GL1100 and am going to go ahead and install progressive springs in the front while everything is apart.. I read a nice install write up and the author mentioned that he used Progressive 416s on his 82 but I am having problems finding those. The write up was several years old.

So I could use some advice on the springs to use.

Also I am planing on using 120/90 16 on the front and either 140/80 16, or 130/90 16 on the rear. Conti Go tires. Any opinions?
 
I am going to order the front springs. Around $90 on Amazon. I have been thinking about replacing the rear shocks as well after I change tires. May wait until winter. If I replace the air shocks I wonder if I will have to do something with the rear suspension idiot light?

Everyone okay with my tire sizes? Thanks Brian.
 
If you replace the rear shocks with 412's, they are also air shocks so you will be OK with the low pressure light. The low pressure light is mounted on the air system, not directly on the shocks themselves.
 
My 1100 had the 412's and the wires going to the sensor were just cut. The air suspension light would come on for a few seconds and then go out and stay out. I also want to point out that there are cheaper alternatives out there to the Progressive 412's. Gerry bought a set on Ebay for a lot less than what the Progressive's cost.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195231#p195231:2abremks said:
mcgovern61 » Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:12 am[/url]":2abremks]
If you replace the rear shocks with 412's, they are also air shocks so you will be OK with the low pressure light. The low pressure light is mounted on the air system, not directly on the shocks themselves.
Click to expand...

I think you meant the 416 Gerry as the 412 are not Air Shocks.
 
You are right, 416's.....darned keyboard. :Awe: :hihihi:

I installed a coil spring progressive "style" shocks. They have been working great! At some point, I will put air shocks back on. When we had that '81 1100 last winter, I could really feel the difference with correctly working OEM air shocks versus my failing '82 air shocks. For now, the in-expensive coil springs are fine. I will add that the coil spring shocks performed exceptionally this past spring when I was towing my trailer with the heaviest load yet. That was the smoothest ride my bike has ever had.

FYI, to bypass the low pressure light, just add a wire at the sender. You pull the wire off the sender and ground it to the bike. It will still come on briefly when you start the bike and then go off. The trigger for the light is actually from the speed sensor in the speedometer (same one that controls the turn signal beeper tone). Grounding it to the frame is the same as closing a normally open switch (which is what the air sensor is).
 
I don't have any real issues with the OEM rear shocks but I imagine that they could use a rebuild. I have a tutorial on it and I guess that the manual may have the same. Didn't look that hard on the tut I looked at. My one thought about changing the rear is that it would raise it up some. Made to Care's post on the shocks he put on said it did raise the rear. I don't want that at all.

I wonder if the progressives will raise the front? I'm hoping that it will eliminate some of the dive I am getting during deceleration and braking and possibly raise the profile up front. That would be optimal. Well, I'm going to see next week. Progressives ordered and the local dealer is going to match the price I got online for the front tire. Will do the rear tire next. Everybody ok with 120/90 18 up front?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195236#p195236:3epkhtcu said:
mcgovern61 » Today, 10:11 am[/url]":3epkhtcu]
You are right, 416's.....darned keyboard. :Awe: :hihihi:

I installed a coil spring progressive "style" shocks. They have been working great! At some point, I will put air shocks back on. When we had that '81 1100 last winter, I could really feel the difference with correctly working OEM air shocks versus my failing '82 air shocks. For now, the in-expensive coil springs are fine. I will add that the coil spring shocks performed exceptionally this past spring when I was towing my trailer with the heaviest load yet. That was the smoothest ride my bike has ever had.

FYI, to bypass the low pressure light, just add a wire at the sender. You pull the wire off the sender and ground it to the bike. It will still come on briefly when you start the bike and then go off. The trigger for the light is actually from the speed sensor in the speedometer (same one that controls the turn signal beeper tone). Grounding it to the frame is the same as closing a normally open switch (which is what the air sensor is).
Click to expand...

I will save this info if I decide to do what you did. Do you remember the shocks that you did buy Gerry? What is inexpensive? I might add that I ride by myself 99% of the time. Wife not interested at all.
 
When I fitted my rear progressives they came with air lines that didn't suit the stock system so I just grounded the low air switch so that it doesn't throw a fault light.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195238#p195238:3u3sn794 said:
wedoo2 » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:01 pm[/url]":3u3sn794]
I don't have any real issues with the OEM rear shocks but I imagine that they could use a rebuild. I have a tutorial on it and I guess that the manual may have the same. Didn't look that hard on the tut I looked at. My one thought about changing the rear is that it would raise it up some. Made to Care's post on the shocks he put on said it did raise the rear. I don't want that at all.

I wonder if the progressives will raise the front? I'm hoping that it will eliminate some of the dive I am getting during deceleration and braking and possibly raise the profile up front. That would be optimal. Well, I'm going to see next week. Progressives ordered and the local dealer is going to match the price I got online for the front tire. Will do the rear tire next. Everybody ok with 120/90 18 up front?
Click to expand...
That's the size that's called for....same for the 83. I'm running a 130/70 18 Michelin Commander 2...fits just fine
 
I'm going to ride in to the dealer today to look at their tires and get the ball rolling. See the best deal they have and compare online. I got $97 in the progressive springs and should get them in a few days. Will install them while the tire is being mounted. (Not doing that myself)

I think I will start with 10 wt fork oil to start with and no air in the shocks. Prolly put the 120/90 18 back on the front and 130/90 16 on the back since they are the size I have on the bike now. Just sounds right. We'll see what the dealership has. Most tires I like are around $100, Shinkos are cheaper, but I like the looks of the Conti Go.
 
I replaced the front and the rear springs with Progressives. The front stopped bottoming out on bumps though it does seem to raise it up a smudge. The rears absolutely helped the ride . No more double whammy's when you go over a bad spot in the road. It's a different bike now.
 
I have the front springs ordered but I am leary of pulling the rear shocks apart to install them back there. I watched a video of that and it may be more than what I want to do even though I know it would be a good thing. See how things feel after the front install.

Was able to buy the Conti Go tires I wanted too.
 
Upgrade of the stock suspension after 30 odd years is a good thing. Unless you had the bike from new, you will probably notice a change in suspension height, in that it will be back where it should be. I did Race Tech on the front of my 1200 and it made a huge difference in ride quality and performance. I took the air shocks off and installed Progressives. Because of the saddlebags and having to remove them to adjust the shocks, have the rear shocks set for two up riding - still good when solo.

Enjoy.

Cheers
 

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