New Front End

Just got done replacing the old front tire on the Gold Witch with a Conti Go. I decided to replace the fork springs with Progressives. Just took it out for a short ride and I am very happy. I was having a lot of brake, and engine brake, dive and that is almost eliminated. That was worth the money right there. I also had a good amount of chopiness in the front end. The new springs has not eliminated that altogether but it is much better. The front also seems to sit higher and that is one of the things I was hoping to accomplish.

I am always leary of new tires since back in the day I put a new set on a bike and skidded right through a curve and almost took out a fence. They will scrub down soon enough. But I do have a relief knowing that old tire is off there. Will be doing the rear in a couple of weeks.

The new speedometer cable is making a lot of noise so I have to work on that, but I am happy with what I got done this week. Don't ever want to mess with the fork caps again. About lost my religion on that.

What fork oil did you use?

I have for years used Dexron ll but on my latest rebuild on my Burgmans front forks I used Valvoline ATF+4 as it is a "TESTED" 10.5 weight. There are charts out there, old but still good info, that showed one manufactures 15 weight was as thin and another companies 5 weight. But all ATF's are in spec so a Dexron 4 from one company is the same as another. The old Dexron ll was a 9 weight, as is the Dexron 4 synthetic.

I also put a cut down set of Progressive GL1200 springs in my Burgmans forks and eliminated the 5 inch steel spacer. This gave me a smoother ride, 1/2 inch less static sag and another 3/4 inch of fork travel. A 150% improvement.

When installing the fork cap, I use a 1/2 inch drive sliding "T Handel" so I can get it square and push down with both arms. I have not cross threaded a set yet. I paid less than $25 from Amazon for a Williams 15" Sliding T-Handle with 1/2-Inch Drive, amazon search # B007YRAJ0S.

I just redid my front end, and I read that 20 weight was recommended, so I used 20W50 motor oil.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195905#p195905:1jbxb4am said:

D-50Dave » Today, 4:23 am[/url]":1jbxb4am]
I just redid my front end, and I read that 20 weight was recommended, so I used 20W50 motor oil.

Click to expand...

How is that working out? Seems like dampening would be pretty hard.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195853#p195853:3uha8s4k said:

Dave_J » Wed Sep 13, 2017 11:19 am[/url]":3uha8s4k]
When installing the fork cap, I use a 1/2 inch drive sliding "T Handel" so I can get it square and push down with both arms. I have not cross threaded a set yet. I paid less than $25 from Amazon for a Williams 15" Sliding T-Handle with 1/2-Inch Drive, amazon search # B007YRAJ0S.

Click to expand...

Also I like to figure out where the start of the thread is on the cap, that point right when they want to fit together; mark that with a sharpie. Then when you are pushing down on that spring you at least know where the threads want to fit together to help also eliminate the possibility of a cross thread.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195905#p195905:wvqnppry said:

D-50Dave » Today, 4:23 am[/url]":wvqnppry]
I just redid my front end, and I read that 20 weight was recommended, so I used 20W50 motor oil.

Click to expand...

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195912#p195912:wvqnppry said:

dan filipi » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:53 am[/url]":wvqnppry]
How is that working out? Seems like dampening would be pretty hard.

Click to expand...

WOW!

That 20W50 is a 50 weight based oil when its warm. So like Dan said, "How is that working out?"

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195912#p195912:oqzno1ui said:

dan filipi » Yesterday, 8:53 am[/url]"qzno1ui]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195905#p195905:oqzno1ui said:

D-50Dave » Today, 4:23 am[/url]"qzno1ui]
I just redid my front end, and I read that 20 weight was recommended, so I used 20W50 motor oil.

Click to expand...

How is that working out? Seems like dampening would be pretty hard.

Click to expand...

It certainly is different from the seasick feeling I was getting from one fork leaked just about dry. I changed the springs as well so its hard to tease one change from the other, but the overall ride is very good. Super-stable in the corners and not jarring on bumps. It might be a bit stiff for some, but this is certainly working for me.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195918#p195918:25us6h7h said:

Dave_J » Yesterday, 12:54 pm[/url]":25us6h7h]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195905#p195905:25us6h7h said:

D-50Dave » Today, 4:23 am[/url]":25us6h7h]
I just redid my front end, and I read that 20 weight was recommended, so I used 20W50 motor oil.

Click to expand...

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195912#p195912:25us6h7h said:

dan filipi » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:53 am[/url]":25us6h7h]
How is that working out? Seems like dampening would be pretty hard.

Click to expand...

WOW!

That 20W50 is a 50 weight based oil when its warm. So like Dan said, "How is that working out?"

Click to expand...

My understanding of the numbers was that the physical viscosity was a 20 weight but that the effective lubricating qualities when warm were that of a 50 weight. I don't believe the oil gets thicker when it gets hotter. But my understanding of many things are often quite flawed.

Checking to see where the threads start on the forks and the caps ...makes the job much quicker and easier....align the two and twist.