Speedo/ Tach and Running Lights Out

Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wedoo2

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2015
Messages
726
Reaction score
0
Location
Terre Haute, IN
I re-installed the rear tire on my bike yesterday. I took off both saddlebags and disconnected the wiring to them. Pretty much all that I did to the wring. Now the running light and the speedometer and tach lights don't work. I looked at the wiring diagram and I see that there is a common ground but I can't see anything else that would take out both of these. BTW both turn signals work along with the idiot light in the dash, and the brake lights are ok.

I checked all of the fuses for continuity. Is there something that is powering both of these sets of lights that I am missing?
 
Fixed problem. Bad fuse even though I put the meter on it for a continuity check. Actually I think that the battery in my tester was bad, or low.
 
That is where the old incandescent test lights come into their own as they need a load to light up, just don't use them on ECUs...
 
I changed out that glass fuse box for a the more modern automotive type.

For reliability, it was one of the best things I ever did to this bike.

Or should this also be met with ridicule by the ownership and his sidekick!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196296#p196296:c301gh8h said:
chilidawg » 56 minutes ago[/url]":c301gh8h]
I changed out that glass fuse box for a the more modern automotive type.

For reliability, it was one of the best things I ever did to this bike.

Or should this also be met with ridicule by the ownership and his sidekick!
I have no idea what you mean about ridicule. I’ve done the same on mine as well as many others here. It has been one of the best upgrades on mine for years. Add to that, using a relay to power the fuse block instead of powering all that load through the ignition.
 
I used one like this

image.php


There are better designs out there and from members here who have done it. Perhaps chilidawg could post some pictures of his.
 
Thanks Dan, I am looking at doing this as well. My cover is broken anyway and I've added some circuits, GPS, Driving lights and utility socket. Would like to have them separately fused.
 
Here's my fuse box, installed and working perfectly.

You may have to do away with the front fake tank bolts, I did, but that I think is only because I have the on-board compressor, but even if you do, it's not an issue if its all behind a fairing.

And for those of you that like to criticize, hey look, there's a wire-nut in there, knock yourselves out.

But remember, I did say it works perfectly..... :whistling:
 

Attachments

  • Ogri's fuse box 001.jpg
    Ogri's fuse box 001.jpg
    77.2 KB · Views: 87
  • Ogri's fuse box 002.jpg
    Ogri's fuse box 002.jpg
    77.7 KB · Views: 89
  • Ogri's fuse box 003.jpg
    Ogri's fuse box 003.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 89
Hey ChiliD,
Can one assume....
you used all the same amp fuse's wired in exactly the same config as the stock block?

Blue wire nut! :music:

I suck at wiring unless i have a drawing and instructions....

Did you install a relay too as per Dan?
 
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=196786#p196786:etgl8fvz said:
chilidawg » Sat Oct 14, 2017 2:09 pm[/url]":etgl8fvz]
And for those of you that like to criticize, hey look, there's a wire-nut in there, knock yourselves out.

[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=197021#p197021:etgl8fvz said:
Pony Ruiz » Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:41 pm[/url]":etgl8fvz]
Blue wire nut! :music:

:BigGrin: I prefer to call them "quick disconnects". They're pretty handy for roughing things out, but they can get you in trouble on the road. That one's actually in a fairly benign environment. They're not as bad as Scotchlocks, but, well... (You did say knock yourself out).

...running and ducking.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=197021#p197021:1fktf0bg said:
Pony Ruiz » Fri Oct 20, 2017 10:41 pm[/url]":1fktf0bg]
Hey ChiliD,
Can one assume....
you used all the same amp fuse's wired in exactly the same config as the stock block?

Blue wire nut! :music:

I suck at wiring unless i have a drawing and instructions....

Did you install a relay too as per Dan?

Yes I did, for it is but a direct replacement for the original glass fuse box.

It is also surprisingly easy to do because from left to right the first 4 fuses are just jumped over from 1 wire, as per the original.

No I did not install a relay, why complicate things? I could be corrected, but I believe Dan's relay is there to replace the handlebar Double Pole Double Throw switch that is the starter button, that cuts the headlight when you press it, I used a lower wattage HID headlight & and a Lithium Ion battery to do that.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=197022#p197022:1z2c2t57 said:
desertrefugee » Fri Oct 20, 2017 11:36 pm[/url]":1z2c2t57]
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=196786#p196786:1z2c2t57 said:
chilidawg » Sat Oct 14, 2017 2:09 pm[/url]":1z2c2t57]
And for those of you that like to criticize, hey look, there's a wire-nut in there, knock yourselves out.

[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=197021#p197021:1z2c2t57 said:
Pony Ruiz » Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:41 pm[/url]":1z2c2t57]
Blue wire nut! :music:

:BigGrin: I prefer to call them "quick disconnects". They're pretty handy for roughing things out, but they can get you in trouble on the road. That one's actually in a fairly benign environment. They're not as bad as Scotchlocks, but, well... (You did say knock yourself out).

...running and ducking.

The wire nut is there because the far right fuse is the accessory fuse, and we all know that the first thing you have to do to work on these things is remove the seat and the fake tank, and it's the most reliable thing I know to achieve that, I hate Scotchlocks too.

And it ain't failed me yet!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=197027#p197027:2n154ddw said:
chilidawg » 44 minutes ago[/url]":2n154ddw]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=197021#p197021:2n154ddw said:
Pony Ruiz » Fri Oct 20, 2017 10:41 pm[/url]":2n154ddw]
Hey ChiliD,
Can one assume....
you used all the same amp fuse's wired in exactly the same config as the stock block?

Blue wire nut! :music:

I suck at wiring unless i have a drawing and instructions....

Did you install a relay too as per Dan?

Yes I did, for it is but a direct replacement for the original glass fuse box.

It is also surprisingly easy to do because from left to right the first 4 fuses are just jumped over from 1 wire, as per the original.

No I did not install a relay, why complicate things? I could be corrected, but I believe Dan's relay is there to replace the handlebar Double Pole Double Throw switch that is the starter button, that cuts the headlight when you press it, I used a lower wattage HID headlight & and a Lithium Ion battery to do that.
I put a relay in to take the entire fuse block current load off the ignition switch. You know, the one with a key!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=197046#p197046:h02dadwn said:
Pony Ruiz » 2 minutes ago[/url]":h02dadwn]
Dman..
I did the headlight relay mod...would putting a relay on the whole fuse block negate needing the headlight relay mod?

I'm gonna dive into this (and maybe that 1800rear m/c) at some point - 2018 no doubt :Egyptian:

thanks
I found after putting the relay in to power the fuse box that the lights got brighter, including the headlight.
Putting a relay on the headlight also, IMO, would be over kill with a relay already for the fuse panel.
 
Top