front end violent shake

im using the bike,, but don't let go of the handle bars, at least not for long.. i was putting bike away in g/f's shed,, this was ,, last winter,, idk,, i came to a stop this hard :shock: . I don't know if that has anything to do with it or what,, i used to be able to let go of the handlebars at ? 20.. i had 100% trust in it.. now i would like to try and get a fix on it..

Probably something out of position. I'd go through the fork installation by the book loosening everything first. Be sure to tighten everything in the order the book states. If that doesn't cure it do the same with the front wheel.

Me too, I think in about 2 seconds it starts...I would check the front wheel for axle torque and alignment..I still need to check mine but so long as I don't let go i`m OK.

ok,, thanks slab and zman for the input

Mine would shake mostly while coasting from about 40-30 mph almost every time when I was running a worn Pirelli on the front.
With the new E3 I haven't had any shake in 2000 miles or so which tells me the tire condition/design comes into play here.

Here's some info that might help your problem. https://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... cking.html

Lots of reasons. I'll add uneven fork heights. Check that the same amount sticks above the tube. It doesn't take much.

everything happens from the road up ...tire being first step like a flat spot uneven wear ....then ck axle and fork caps ...one side brake sticking...rotor wobble then up to triple tree locking of fork even ..no oil in one fork and last .. but really frist .. stem bearing at perfect tension ....up on jack with wheel off ground to ck all this ....

i am sure no one will agree but i personally think when things are perfect ...it can be bad sometimes on some bikes ... as in the neutral position it rather easy to move left and right ...

so me i like to put in a little outward tension on the forks right at the wheel with axle ...this makes forks stiffer and the bike will handle better big time ...and i am not talking much ..all it takes is a touch ..to much will screw with brakes ....

the bike i ride now had a wobble to it and also has many parts that dont belong together ....it now rides with no wobble and handles great for me ....

starting with the tire is my best move ,, had a duncrap on there before, and it wanted to wobble on high speed curves,, a bike shop owner looked at it and said it was alright,, I replaced it anyway's and problem was solved. 7550 miles on this one,, (no visible wear), never really got it balanced right,, used the beads and had trouble getting them all in. I may try that "outward tension" once. thanx

I must admit that the Rats Nest has developed the same problem especially if I brake or decelerate with out holding on to the bars. As Trak said it never used to do this but I am due for anew front tire :hihihi:

With the worn Dunlops mine used to do it coasting down at 40-30mph. With the Shinko it does it even at steady speed 30-50mph. It was supposed to have been balanced when the tire was mounted, and it does have a balance weight, but it has a pretty substantial front vibration at 80+ so I'm going to try my own balance and/or dynabeads.

give me a straight grooved tired like they used to make,, i think the fancy grooving works in some, but not all applications

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134413#p134413:3s5tu58t said:

Trak » Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:39 am[/url]":3s5tu58t]
give me a straight grooved tired like they used to make,, i think the fancy grooving works in some, but not all applications

Click to expand...

I'm not sure straight groove is good either.
My Pirelli had one down the center and it tracked lines real bad though I don't know for certain that groove was causing this. That tire was bad all around.

hmm,, had pirelli on the back once,, don't try that,, they are too big to clear some parts of the bike.

i can order a bridgestone, correct size,, michelan makes a 110/90 18 ,, instead of the recommended 120/90 18,, same price ..

Dynabeads word.

I'll throw my hat into this one...
Mine has had the shimmy-shake from day one. Starts aboot 25mph or so if I don't have a hand on the bars. Does it accelerating or decelerating. I don't know if it will also do it at road speed, because if I take my hands off the bars, it wants to travel to the left slightly, and I have to correct. It has done this, as I say, from day one....and ya'll know how many, and how many different tires I have had. When I installed the last tires recently, I did notice that the steering head had a "center" spot...prolly a flat spot on a bearing, I'm guessing. It's not a lock down type spot; it is noticeable with the front end in the air, but not with the bike on the ground. I'm thinking this might be my issue, and after reading the article in the link that backlander posted, I'm even more convinced. .

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134351#p134351:373islwp said:

backlander » Mon Oct 27, 2014 1:51 pm[/url]":373islwp]
Here's some info that might help your problem. https://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... cking.html

Click to expand...

This is my first large bike.....I can say that my old dressed out 750A NEVER had this problem. I could set the throttle lock on that thing, lean back on the backrest, put my feets up on the pegs, and ride just by shifting my body around, never touching the bars. I miss those days.... :crying:

my bike (1100a) was like that,, even at low speeds, set the throttle lock and let go

Mine pulls slightly to the left also. Just like a car that needs an alignment. It's only noticeable with hands off the bars which I never do any more after reading some of violent shimmy and tank slappers coming on without warning.
This isn't unique to goldwings, can happen on any bike.

Try measuring the rear wheel alignment to the front wheel for the slight left hand steer make sure both wheels are tracking true to each other.