GL1100 RATTLING NOISE

Ok just pick this bike up. From looking at it, it's been sitting awhile. Things i did to it with no change in noise. Check timing, did valve clearance. Bike as 79500 on it change oil and filter. I have pulled carbs off and remove heads plus pull motor out. There are no marks showing valve hitting piston. I check bolt on back of engine for stator and that is tight. Valves and pistons show very little carbon built up. I'm going to pull valves and check them to see if bent at all plus install new stem seals. Was going to pull valves today. But when to advance auto to buy valve compressor, and should have when to Napa because compressor is junk and going back tomorrow, can't ever turn handle on it. Junk.
I'm going to clean carburetors while I got them off. I hate to spent 3-4 hundred before getting it running some what, but I guess I have too. Video of it running. [video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boYoG6bMPp4[/video]

Check for a loose rod bearing or piston pin, it sounds deep enough to be a loose rod.

you can clean up carbs without rebuild kit ...i agree hanging valve is probably it ... you do understand where stator bolt is?....to me this is a heads off deal period really ...

Stator bolt is behide the cover (plug) where you crank motor over with 12 mm.

yes ..sheesh sorry ...i seem to be behind the game here oh2:

That's OK. You think I can tear carbs apart and clean without O rings & gaskets

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=136513#p136513:3ebkhqfz said:

auctioneeral » Sun Nov 30, 2014 1:35 pm[/url]":3ebkhqfz]
That's OK. You think I can tear carbs apart and clean without O rings & gaskets

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I would start with removing only the float bowls. Bowl gaskets may get damaged but may be ok too.
Clean the jets and screens below the float needle could be all that's needed, well clean and polish the sliders and caps too.

With the heads off, turn the crank and place the pistons at mid-travel. Lightly touch each piston as you slowly turn the crank back & forth - just a bit. You should feel it if there's play in the rod bearings or wrist pins, the piston should immediately move when the crank is turned, with no backlash or roughness.

If the primary chain is very worn, it will make a lot of noise, especially if the tensioner is also worn or its spring is broken.

The tapping noise does sound like a very loose valve adjustment or a rod bearing. Hopefully it's not a bearing!! :beg:

Well first thing. I lightly touch each piston as i slowly turn the crank back & forth and did not feel any play there.
Took valves out of head's today. #1 intake was stuck. All other valves move freely. #1-3 intake valves were loaded with carbon built up under valve face and stems. Other's were not bad. Got them all clean up and head clean waiting on ordering valve seals and gasket's.

#2 problem today cleaning head's. I have lose one of the ORIFICE OIL CONTROL. So I got to see if there is one on ebay I guess.
#3 Looking at timing advance everything is turning in there when turning engine over, I suck on the vacuum hose and the advance move and stay up there still I stop sucking so I take it that is fine. (correct)
That's as far as I got today. Sitting here making up a list of gaskets I need to order now. Plus I wont be doing anything to it for the next 2 weeks as I am working 16 hr. days.

I,had a 78 that sounded like that.the po.adjusted the valves.and loosened,the crank/ bolt.the wrong way.hope that's not it.good luck,with.the bike.tom :music:

More than likely that stuck valve is the cause of your problems. A stuck valve will cause a loss of compression in its cylinder, and if it's an intake valve, it could cause reverse flow through the carb, sending the air-fuel mix into the plenum which screws up the other 3 mixtures. Let's hope that's all of your problems!!!

its starting to look good

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=136543#p136543:7m4xcltl said:

joedrum » Tue Dec 02, 2014 7:46 am[/url]":7m4xcltl]
its starting to look good

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+1 :good:

I cleaned up my carbs a couple of years ago without replacing any of the gaskets or other soft parts. If you are reasonably careful and the carbs are not in real bad shape, you should be fine.

I started the carb. clean. I'm going to need some of the Orings. Were the 2 fuel tubes run from 1-3 to 2-4 because Orings are dry rotten and fell apart when I took it apart.

I need to find that ORIFICE OIL CONTROL.

Check ebay. Seller are tearing stuff down to almost nothing now to sell each part separately. If you don't find it listed look for any part of your bike and message the seller your need. A couple tries and you should be able to get them. If no one here has a spare laying around.

I'll dig around for an oil orifice. I'm sure they're on eBay as well...

sheesh that dose suck be carful here as the ones for the 1200 are different than the ones for 1000 and 1100

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=136559#p136559:xr7yjitv said:

auctioneeral » Tue Dec 02, 2014 4:10 am[/url]":xr7yjitv]
I need to find that ORIFICE OIL CONTROL.

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Are you unable to find it on the motor, or did you lose one?

If the former, you'll most likely find it sticking out of the heads, between the tops of the 2 combustion chambers, it's held in place with tiny O rings, just pull on them, they'll come right on out.

If the later, I know I've got one here somewhere I'll never use.

EDIT. Yep, looking right at one now.

And welcome over here to the real forum, where people really know their stuff about these old wings!!

I found the orifice.. Thanks to all that offer me one.