The Wanderer III

Always nice to fix things yourself and save some money :good: :good:

1200 is my favorite model. Power and fit is just right for me. Good you saved a little cash.

Good to read that you have solved the issue. The 1200 is a good power plant. Seems the motorcycle industry is centering around the 1200 cc size as the optimum size for the masses. Enjoy the bike.

Cheers

update. purchased new shinko's 230 tourmaster. They run a little big but it should work.

I do have another issue though. My 10amp compresssor fuse keeps blowing when i try to add/ decrease air.

Air compressor shorted? or wiring short? Not much help......

I still have wires all over the place so, not surprised.

Might be the compressor froze up? Or perhaps the power wire is grounded?

Here's what i tried. replaced original 10 amp with 20 amp, went through each pump switch, when i pressed the decrease button simultaneous with front, the dash went blank. went i released the decrease, dash came back on.
Is there a short or maybe i didnt wire something correct.
does the bike have to be running for the pump to work?

I expect it should be running when the pump is used. However it does seem the pump is pulling a lot more power than it should to cause a lights out condition. Like the pump may be okay electrically but mechanically bound up.

If you press the decrease I think you are activating a solenoid? I'd have to look at the wiring diagrams. Were you checking front or rear when that happened?

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=200799#p200799:1r3syhcv said:

julimike54 » 5 minutes ago[/url]":1r3syhcv]
If you press the decrease I think you are activating a solenoid? I'd have to look at the wiring diagrams. Were you checking front or rear when that happened?

Click to expand...

front

Let me give some added info. the original fairing was damaged in a wreck, mainly just the outer portion nothing interior. I had to purchase another fairing then transferred all the inner stuff (wiring, radio, compressor, etc) from the damaged fairing to the new. there is a good chance i might have screwed up the installation of the compressor and/or the wiring, so with that being said, i will remove the compressor and all of the corresponding parts and try running it outside of the fairing to see whats going on........

Removed air pressure switches and noticed 2 wires coming out of decrease button . one is solid green and othe is black with yellow stripe. i had green wire attached to green but had black/yellow wire attached to black/brown stripe. There are no other wires to attach black/yellow to. I tried the schematics on here and too fuzzy to read.

Bingo, found the problem. Two wires were hiding way down inside the fairing. Man I am one happy camper, this was driving me nuts :head bang: :head bang:
funny thing because i now remember when i was hooking everything up, i couldnt find the black/yellow. color codes are there for a reason.
Okay, onto the tires now :clapping:

Cool! Wrong wire hooked up was the other thing I was going to say :whistling: :BigGrin:

Glad you found the issue.

Rear tire mounted , rides much better.

I have another issue though. Seems now the rear shocks are not holding air. Any tips? I guess I will get soapy water spray and check to see where it is leaking and go from there.

opcorn: Thanks for sharing..

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=200964#p200964:xmlgpcgu said:

made2care » Fri Mar 02, 2018 9:54 pm[/url]":xmlgpcgu]
Rear tire mounted , rides much better.

I have another issue though. Seems now the rear shocks are not holding air. Any tips? I guess I will get soapy water spray and check to see where it is leaking and go from there.

Click to expand...

Check the lines where they connect and shrader valves. After you've pressurized. Use really soapy water. If no leaks are found your shock seals may be leaking. If memory serves the oil in them is atf. You can add atf with sealer to top them off and they may seal up again and last a while longer.

Ladies and gents, my bike is good. I solved the air leak problem. use Slabghost's advice and sure enough, there was a leaky fitting. It is holding air nicely now. She has new tires and I am ready to put back all the plastics. I will definitely get a video of the final stage.
This bike was in a wreck and the po did not have the patience nor the skills to bring her back too life. With that being said, if I can do this, so can you.
Here are all my purchases to get the bike running again:

Donor fairing (tricky to find but i got lucky and found one which matched factory color $150
right front engine guard $25
rebuild stock carbs $465
new oil/filter $30
fresh antifreeze and hoses $25
flushed all lines $0
new tires $150
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total $845
bike $700
joy from fixing it $priceless

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grand total $1545 Not bad