Gl1200 Clutch Lever, should I bleed?

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marcusknight

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My 1984 GL1200 was apart for a few months this winter due to a broken bolt on the rear clutch cover. Well after a lot of head scratching I got that out. I also replaced that seal that goes in the middle of the clutch cover that holds the engine oil in. That actuator pin goes in the middle of it for the slave cylinder and clutch.

When I put everything back together and I started it up today on the center stand, the engine sounded fine.

However, something funny is going on with the clutch lever. It seems to have pressure, but when I squeeze the clutch lever all the way, I notice the rear wheel is still spinning and not stopping. This was happening I would say about 75 percent of the time. Other times it seemed to disengage the power to the wheel.

Also peculiar and perhaps linked to this, I have very little pressure if any on the rear brake when I press the foot brake.

My first thought is, from the work I did, there is air in the system. That would explain the mushy brake pedal. There were several weeks that went by where I had the clutch cover apart. I had removed the slave cylinder three bolts and it was dangling there by the hose. I am kind of thinking that air got into the system that way. Though I don't see any visible leaks.

What should I do next? The only thing I can think of is to bleed the clutch and rear brake. Though I thought when you have air in your clutch, it would not be firm but mushy. Mine is firm, but again does not disengage the power when squeezed. Suggestions?
 
Hmmm the rear brake should have not been effected ...but it must need bleeding I guess ...the clutch deal could be bad master lever on the bar ...strange how all this happen ....can’t think of how getting bolt out would cause any of this ....sounds like you may need some help here maybe ...can take the slave off cover and see if it’s pushing the cylinder out good ....something like a c clamp put on it to keep it from coming all the way out ...but there may be no room for that ...I just did brakes on my car yesterday ...good luck
 
@Ohara has the answer on the clutch. When the bike is on the centerstand there will be wheel spinage, I have it happen all the time on mine, especially after it sits too long. If not that, then I'd guess the return hole in the master cylinder as @pijones stated. Don't know why your brakes would have gone mush, but the bleeding should fix them. Good luck!
 
Doesnt the rear brake and the clutch share the same master cylinder on the let handle bar? Or not?

Front brake handle is perfectly firm and fine.
 
The rear brake and front right brake are linked - use the right foot pedal. The brake lever on the handle bar operates the left front brake caliper. The right clutch master operates the clutch system only.

If the wheel is spinning when on the centre stand, take the bike off the centre stand and try it. A few trips around the block should free it up.

When you bleed the brakes, do the linked brakes (right front and rear) such that you bleed the front right brake caliper first then the rear brake caliper.

Brake and hydraulic fluid should be flushed every one to two years. I have installed Speed Bleeders that make flushing of the brake and clutch hydraulics simple for a one person job.

Cheers
 
No you have the clutch MC on the left bar and the rear brake MC down below the right side cover, with the reservoir behind that cover. The rear brake and the right front caliper share that MC, bleed front first then rear. When doing mine, sometimes I have to go back to the front again, just fyi :)

I'll second the speed bleeders!
 
Update:

Played with the clutch a little more. That seems fine now.

The rear brake. I checked the fluid in the master cylinder under the side cover. That looked fine. Funny that when on the center stand, the brake pedal travels easier and further then when on the road. It grabs better now.

However, the rear brake is squeaking quite a bit even when not depressed. It takes some playing of the brake pedal to get it to stop squeaking. But its not perfect.

Is there something that can be done to make the brake slide more easily when releasing the rear brake? I feel like its not releasing easily enough.
 
If you are hearing the brake pads when moving it is probably the slide pin is not allowing the caliper to float and self-align. Each caliper has a slide pin - for the rear caliper P/N 13 45111-MA3-006. These slide pins have a tendency to seize in the caliper preventing the caliper from floating and self-aligning. You will probably have to take the caliper off and free up this sleeve, and replace if badly corroded. May also have to use a hammer and persuade it to move. Take care not to damage the sleeve boots (qty 2). Not expensive if you have to replace - P/N 45133-166-016. Use a good grease to lube the sleeve when you put it back in. Recommend remove and grease at least every two years, especially if you have to lay the bike up for the winter season, lack of use does not help.

Recommend this for the front rotors as well.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=201392#p201392:h2bx84fk said:
Rednaxs60 » Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:52 pm[/url]":h2bx84fk]
If you are hearing the brake pads when moving it is probably the slide pin is not allowing the caliper to float and self-align. Each caliper has a slide pin - for the rear caliper P/N 13 45111-MA3-006. These slide pins have a tendency to seize in the caliper preventing the caliper from floating and self-aligning. You will probably have to take the caliper off and free up this sleeve, and replace if badly corroded. May also have to use a hammer and persuade it to move. Take care not to damage the sleeve boots (qty 2). Not expensive if you have to replace - P/N 45133-166-016. Use a good grease to lube the sleeve when you put it back in. Recommend remove and grease at least every two years, especially if you have to lay the bike up for the winter season, lack of use does not help.

Recommend this for the front rotors as well.

Cheers

I use a good silicon grease on those pins. It also helps keep the moisture out so they work easily for a long time. If cleaning the float pins doesn't do the trick then you will need to rebuild or replace the rear caliper.
 
A good grease for this is from Permatex:
Permatex Caliper Greases.JPG
 
If I were to replace the pins, can this be done without a lot of disassembly? I assume I would take off the left side saddle bag, but does anything else major have to be removed to replace the pins?
 
I'll second that... I've probably replaced a caliper pin oh... once in mebbie the last 40 years. The rubber boots... yeah, they tend to rot a bit, but the pins, once free, I chuck them into a cordless drill, and spin them, while addressing 'em against a wire wheel, and they clean up immediately. A little bit of the right grease and we're good again.
 

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