New To Me - Second 1985 Limited - New Project

Okay, okay. What is that stuff? I do not know what desiccant is, what it is used for, why you baked it and why you intend to use it. Pretty blue though.

Per Google: "A desiccant is a hygroscopic substance that induces or sustains a state of dryness (desiccation) in its vicinity; It is the opposite of a humectant. Commonly encountered pre-packaged desiccants are solids that absorb water."

Goldwings use it to absorb the moisture in the air before it gets into your air shocks on the models with an air pump.

Baking it or subjecting it to a hard vacuum draws the absorbed moisture out and lets you re-use it. Pink equals saturated with moisture; blue equals no significant moisture present.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=199665#p199665:2ykd179w said:

wedoo2 » Today, 2:35 am[/url]":2ykd179w]
Okay, okay. What is that stuff? I do not know what desiccant is, what it is used for, why you baked it and why you intend to use it. Pretty blue though.

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As PurpleGL1200I details: "Per Google: "A desiccant is a hygroscopic substance that induces or sustains a state of dryness (desiccation) in its vicinity; It is the opposite of a humectant. Commonly encountered pre-packaged desiccants are solids that absorb water."

Goldwings use it to absorb the moisture in the air before it gets into your air shocks on the models with an air pump.

Baking it or subjecting it to a hard vacuum draws the absorbed moisture out and lets you re-use it. Pink equals saturated with moisture; blue equals no significant moisture present."

You have seen desiccant many times. The little packets in pill bottles, cold tablet bottles. Sometimes it is in a plastic capsule that you throw away. When you get items in the mail, there are small packets as well. Go into your local hardware store at this time of year and there are moisture reducing items, these are full of desiccant.

It is a drying agent in the air compressor intake to reduce rusting and corrosion in the air ride system.

Dusting the cobwebs off the two regulator/rectifier units I have on the shelf from when I did the alt mod on my '85 LTD. I have the Shindengen SH574AA-12 (shunt type) and the SH847AA from Roadster Cycle (series). The SH574AA checks out good and I believe is a better RR than the Kawasaki unit that is installed on the bike at this time - still puzzled why the OEM unit was replaced. Have sent an email to Jack at Roadster Cycle to inquire if there is a test that can be performed on the SH947AA before I trundle off down the rabbit hole so to speak.

I would prefer the series regulator because it does let the rotor/stator operate at lower current hence less heat and still give good power production and delivery.

Looking for an appropriate place to install the series RR as it is considerable larger than the OEM shunt RR - nice to have a duplicate bike to do fitment tests.

More to follow.

Cheers

Got an email back from Jack at Roadster Cycle. He mentioned he has tried to test the SH847 RR and has not been successful. I'll be taking both back to Ontario, fit one and make sure it works.

Ernest try this model it should be a Mofset one due to the FH series unless the manufacturer made up the part number.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2607941301

Thanks Tony - will consider. Did some browsing on the net. Your post got me going.

Found a site that talks about this RR. It appears it is Shindengen FH002 shunt type unit but has the new elctronic technology MOSFET. It is used on a bike that has a 300 watt that puts out about 24 amps max. When I look at these units I look to see if there is a Shindengen type trademark on it and found one on eBay with the Shindengen mark of FH002 4.0 251 with the Shindengen trademark of two inverse-series diodes in a circle. Whether this is really a Shindengen FH002 MOSFET regulator, a licensed copy, an unlicensed copy or a conventional SCR regulator sporting a more attractive part number would be a good question, especially at a price of $25.00 CDN delivered. Spent a lot more money for a lot less in my time.

Found another one that was used in place of the OEM install on a VTR1000F. This one is at: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Voltage-Rectifi ... n6&vxp=mtr for ~20.00 CDN. The thread was from 2005, but good info never the less. I would think this is a shunt type RR but with the MOSFET components/technology because it has the 3 stator wire, one power out and ground pins - no sense wire. Seems that any RR with the MOSFET technology, shunt or series RR, only has the 5 wires. Here is the difference between the OEM RR and the aftermarket RR for this bike with a pin use chart:

Here is one that is a replacement for the OEM RR on a Yamaha XV1600 Wild Star 1999-2004 from madhornets.com : https://www.madhornets.com/regulator-vol ... y-sh754aa/ Only $61.00 USD - good price - shunt type RR as well. Like to see which bike the unit is intended for, possibility the bike alternator has a larger alternator wattage.

The markings now being "painted on" instead of the older style that had the foil label can be suspect at best for any purchase - like seeing the older foil label, was another step in the process and more of a pain to duplicate, and the sourcing to China for manufacturing also doesn't help us make a decision either.

Found this info on the Honda Shadow forum by Gearhead329 from a 2016 post. Like the listing of ampere ratings:

Model / Output / Source Bike
FH001 / 35A / FJR 1300
FH008EB / 40A / BR 600 RR
FH010BA / 50A / ZX-10R
FH012AA / 50A / FJR 1300, R1
FH012BA / 50A / ZX-14R, ZR1400, GTR1400
FH014AA / 50A / CBR 1000 RR
FH016AA / 40A / ZX-6R

Lots of possibilities out there regardless.

I have also noted on eBay that when one of these units are listed, the view that shows where the manufacturing stamp generally is is not shown, ergo, made in China and a copy, price is also a good sign as well.

Another consideration if you are going to use an inexpensive shunt RR, look at the SH775 RR unit. It too is an inexpensive purchase but it is a series RR versus a shunt RR. Can be had for ~$27.00 CDN as well - another good option. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Voltage-Regulat ... Nd&vxp=mtr

The SH775 is used on Polaris ATV FI machines. Think I'll order one of these and trial.

Another consideration is the rotor/assembly size, and the ampere rating. The standard carb 1200 has a 350 watt alternator (max at ~27 amperes), the fuel injected 1200s have a 500 watt. The 500 watt alternator has a max ampere rating of 35 amps using 14.2 as the voltage. Most of these units mentioned above and that I find on the net are used on bikes with lesser max amp ratings. Having mentioned this, at the prices quoted for some of these, install as a quick change unit and carry a spare. if one of these lesser ampere rated units were to fail on a bike with a rotor/stator assembly that has a higher ampere rating, if the RR were to fail, the rotor/stator assembly should not be affected.

Always good info.

Thanks

Cheers

I can’t remember which model but there is a higher output Mofset reg on one of the CBR900-1100rr etc which would suit your needs for a 1200fi. Just watch out that is is a Mofset and not a standard shunt reg as only the delux models used Mofset.

Keeping myself up to date. Have almost all the parts needed for the bike. Ordered fuel valve rebuild parts for a Honda ATV. Should work good to rebuild the OEM and get rid of any crud in the valve.

The part numbers for this are 16955-HA2-005 and 16963-NB9-005.

Made a GPS mount for the bike. Bought a used 350LM for the bike here in Victoria. Had to make a mount for the bike here so I made two of them. Will get the RAM mount and power cord for the Ontario bike. One GPS to use on two bikes, good deal.

Still thinking about the external alt mod and having the OEM installation as backup. Considering this because of the wiring nightmare I cut out. Think the RR that the PO had installed is not capable of handling the ampere rating of the '85 LTD rotor/stator: however, will make for a good backup system. Picked up a Poorboy crank pulley a few months ago, have the dimensions for the brackets, and know how the wiring has to go. Hopefully have my brother source an alternator for me. 2 day install I would think, took longer on the one here but it was the first time I had done this install.

More to follow.

Cheers

Preparations still ongoing.

Seat is being recovered, it wasn't in good shape and travelling some 5000 Kms on a crusty type seat would not be comfortable. Will have a sheep skin with me for the ride across.

Have made a GPS mount for the bike. Be able to use GPS on both bikes.

Thinking about the electrical hookups that I have to do for GPS, new horns - need to install relay and a few others. Will have this all thought out before I get back to my Brother's place.

Have a Shindengen series RR - SH847AA - that I bought for the bike here in Victoria almost 2 years ago. Intend to install it on the bike in Ontario - it will be better than the RR from a 98-'99 Kawasaki ZX6R.

Issue has always been the size of this new RR. Won't fit where the OEM install is. Looked at the bike here and found one of the only positions available is beside my left knee position and use the engine bracket bolt holes to secure the plate for the RR.

I am using an aluminum plate 4" X 5" by 1/4" thick. Very sturdy. I countersunk the bolts that secure the RR to the plate to give a bit more room when bolting the plate to the bike. here are some pictures of the install.



These series RR produce less heat so the location should be fine. There will be air flow around the back as well as the front - RR is secured such that there is a 1/4" space between the plate and the RR. This is primarily to accommodate the engine bracket securing bolts. The wiring will be routed behind the engine over to the left side of the bike and connected into the system.

I checked this RR to make sure it was still good on a Triumph Rocket Touring. It was a plug and play install on that bike because of the Shunt type RR on that bike - same connections.

Things are moving along quite well.

More later.

Cheers

Been busy getting items for the bike in Ontario.

Have the exhaust taken care of. Got the headers from the basket case cleaned these up and used JB weld on the nipples to fill the voids. Wire brushed, brake clean then JB weld. Filed to a smooth finish and fitted the exhaust gaskets. Cleaned up the chrome with aluminum foil and water, worked well.

Got the front right and rear brake calipers off the basket case as well. Have rebuilt these with new seals and speed bleeders. Put these through the ultrasonic cleaner and came out pretty good. these are ready to be installed when I get east.

Will be installing an external alternator. My thoughts for this is that even though the alternator unit is functioning as one would expect, I do not know the history of the stator. The PO had an RR from a ZX6R Kawasaki installed and the wiring was heated to the point of almost a catastrophic failure. Estimate this RR may be good for a max of 30 amps, wonder what was done to the rest of the alternator unit. Know from experience that it is easier when on the road to change out an external alternator then to have to deal with a stator issue. Have a Poorboy crank pulley, making the alternator mounts this week. Have a wiring kit started as well.

The seat has been recovered with a bit of extra foam put in looks good and is in the budget.

Tires have arrived at my brother's place.

Have the odds and ends for the maintenance items such as exhaust header gaskets, prop shaft oil seal, and the likes.

Shaping up. Cheers

Your second LTD may be better than the first.... Where did you ever find a poor boy pulley? I would like to find one as well for the Interstate. I am rebuilding the starter this year and few other things. Plan to use the Aspencade as my daily rider this summer and give the Interstate a good going over.. Grreat time to put an external alternator on as well. I know I have other options for a pulley however The poor boy pulley is the best. I wish Don sold them separately.
:builder:

Lucked in, got the timing covers as well with it.

The second bike will not be as good as the one I use for daily and touring. I think I will be rebuilding it over time, but it will be a little at a time. 34 year old bearings, brake/clutch lines do need to be changed.

I also got a slipstream windscreen and a set of drag specialty chrome cylinder head covers with the basket case. Don't know what I am going to do with these.

Making the alternator brackets for this bike. Have to pick up some 1" angle, need 1' of it. Made a wee oops on the pieces I have on hand.

Cheers

They look good.... nice shape. :clapping:

This bike will not be better than my '85 here in Victoria, but I expect the maintenance/work that I will do will only be done once instead of a possible number of times. Placement of items, how to run the wiring, what is available to do the work/maintenance, parts availability, and such - a lot of learning first time through. Second time is easier.

Have the brackets for the alternator done. Always nice to have a template to follow, and as I mentioned, these new brackets are version 2 - a little better than the first design, noticed a few fitment issues that I have solved. Will make a second new bracket and install on my bike here.

Tires have arrived at my brother's place. Going with Shinko Tourmaster - looked for experience info on this and the other forums. Price is good. Will use Ride On Tire Sealant and Balancing formula. Have used Counter Act beads but prefer the Ride On formula for balancing. Has the added benefit of sealing punctures up to 1/8" in the main area of the tire.

Cheers

slabghost":1c3qk078 said:

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=185407#p185407:1c3qk078 said:

Rednaxs60 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:15 pm[/url]":1c3qk078]
Get bored just riding and not fixing! :Egyptian: Sad state of affair(s) when all you have to do is turn the key, start the bike and ride! :music:

Cheers

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Wouldn't have that problem if you lived in my neighborhood. Lots of projects here. :BigGrin:

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85 LTDs are terrific as long as you can adapt parts. Mine runs every bit as strong as my 95 SE 1500


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[/quote]85 LTDs are terrific as long as you can adapt parts. Mine runs every bit as strong as my 95 SE 1500[/quote]

My '85 LTD here in Victoria runs well, but every now and then decides I should be punished for enjoying it so much. Two up riding is great, pulls well. Will have to do the valves. Engine has a roll to it when cold starting until it warms up then it runs very smooth. Won't be touching the rings because no blow-by. Did an oil change yesterday, needs 3 1/2 quarts. Only shy 2-3 ounces and at 151,000 Km (93,827 miles). Have a small oil leak by the oil temp sensor. Will address this when I do the valves.

Adapting parts is a challenge but it is something I enjoy. I tend to take my time. This second '85 LTD will make work/maintenance periods on either bike easier, will have a second to ride while one is down.

Was at a GW riders meeting here in Victoria this morning for breakfast. Mentioned i had two of these bikes and sold the 1800. Everyone there were riding 1800s, but did make the comment that they missed their 1200 - made me feel pretty good.

Cheers

Time to put this thread to bed. This was a good learning experience, and I had a great ride across Canada. Still hve my first '85 LTD, and the 1500 so I won't be wanting for things to do.

Cheers

It was a great thread and lots of learning! :thanks: