Replacing Stator on '85 LTD

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Rednaxs60

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Starting a new thread on my stator change. I had initially wanted to do the alt mod, but after searching for the parts in this city, I realize that it will take longer than I'm willing to allow the bike to sit. So after a lot of soul searching, I will be replacing the stator, ordered it yesterday. While the engine is out, hope to do some engine cleaning, and look at the starter clutch. Intend to renew the springs, pins and rollers in the starter clutch.

Had done some initial work to do the alt mod, but have now gone into remove engine mode. Had to remove rear wheel to get the exhaust off and out. Foot pegs, side stand, rear brake lever, engine guards, timing belt covers, drain oil, drain rad, and a few other items. Have started to take pictures staring with the bike disassembled with the rear wheel and exhaust out. Didn't do a commentary on getting this far because it has been said before so to speak. Will be taking pictures from here becasue it is unknown territory for me.

Time for a nice easy evening. More to follow.

Cheers
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172988#p172988:roqlew8c said:
Denver » Sun May 08, 2016 3:31 pm[/url]":roqlew8c]
Not all that bad a job, :nea: take your time & things should be fine. :good:
+1
Good luck getting back on the road asap with plenty of new current :yahoo:
 
I really just did not want to remove the engine, and I like to try new things - the alt mod just makes so much sense (it will be done down the road a bit).

Taking the exhaust off took sometime. Took the rear wheel off. Dropped the exhaust and started pulling it back. Had to take foot pegs, side stand, and rear brake ever off, then can't the left side lower and it pulled back no problem. Took my time and just worked at it. Expect the reverse is going to be the same. Will also take the FD off so I can remove the universal before taking the engine out. Have read that this takes one level of frustration out of the engine removal.

Cheers
 
Bin that damper plate while your in there, :headscratch: as well as fiber plates if their marginal, :good: the spring,rebuild the slave, & clutch master cylinder. :read: You should be done there, for a while. :smilie_happy:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173014#p173014:28xi03i2 said:
Denver » 30 minutes ago[/url]":28xi03i2]
Bin that damper plate while your in there, :headscratch: as well as fiber plates if their marginal, :good: the spring,rebuild the slave, & clutch master cylinder. :read: You should be done there, for a while. :smilie_happy:

A simple R and R of the stator and look at the work. Did another 1 1/2 hours this morning - 2 1/2 hours last night. Took the FD and swing arm off, lets me have more room to work as I go, and no interference with engine R and R.

Taking pictures of everything I do/disconnect (before and after). Need lots of reference when it goes back together. Using zip lock bags and small plastic bins to keep everything organized.

Taking the fuel shut off VV out because it leaks when put to off. There was a fellow in Nova Scotia who had the same issue, took the VV apart, turned the diaphragm around, put it back together and it no loner leaks. On my hit list.

Will look at the clutch slave. Have the 3 seals for it. May have to order the clutch cover gasket, missed it.

Looking at the fiche, what is the damper plate?

Cheers
 
Couple of more hours this afternoon.

Took off the fuel shutoff VV, drilled out the rivets and had a look inside. The leak is from the o-ring on the on/off selector. Will try to source one locally because I do not think Honda has parts as it was put together with rivets. If I can find an o-ring, I should be able to use self tapping screws, or drill right through the body and use small nut and bolt to secure everything.

Disconnected the fuel pp from the lines and tied it back out of the way.

Took the clutch slave off, cleaned, used new seals and put back together. Didn't replace the spring, but think I should as it is a few years old. There was a lot of crud in the clutch slave indicative of not a lot of fluid changes. To drain the clutch hydraulic fluid I took the top off the clutch master and expected to see clear fluid. Unfortunately, the fluid was blackish in colour. This makes me think that the lines are starting to break down and should be replaced. Another project.

Hopefully get more done tomorrow and even have the engine out.

With everything I have done to this bike maintenance wise makes me reflect on what to expect when bringing an older bike back to good operating condition. I was quite aware that I would have to do maintenance, change parts and pieces, and even redo things to my satisfaction; however, I am now thinking that I have to expand what I should expect to do, should I do another project like this, and I probably will.

No regrets regardless. More to follow.

Cheers
 
Addiction has a bad reputation!!! :smilie_happy:It's called damper plate on the part's list, in towards the middle or the stack of plate's, chussions the shifting. :read:
 
Thanked the better half last night for understanding my want to get the work done on the bike. She mentioned that if I don't do it how is she going to ride on it. Maybe a keeper? :music:

Have to order some parts this morning, then on to some more work.

Cheers
 
You may want to be careful. Next you will say: "I'll take the gas tank out to repaint it, now that this is out, I may as well remove the wire harness to fix all the problems, hey and while I'm at it I may as well paint the frame..." :shock:
 
Now that you mention it, did drain the gas tank. Had a look inside the tank and there is a skiff of rust looking substance on the bottom. Not enough to make me want to take out the tank; however, enough to indicate that the fuel filter needs to be changed. The Tk is in good condition on the outside. The wiring harness would be something to do. maybe I need a second '85 LTD to do just what you say. take all the lessons learned fro this one and incorporate it into another. I am looking for a second one, but if I get one, would ant to make it go as well. Never ending cycle.

Cheers
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173014#p173014:3663pl2r said:
Denver » Yesterday, 9:49 am[/url]":3663pl2r]
Bin that damper plate while your in there, :headscratch: as well as fiber plates if their marginal, :good: the spring,rebuild the slave, & clutch master cylinder. :read: You should be done there, for a while. :smilie_happy:

For interest sake - why bin the damper?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173097#p173097:qeqoykcd said:
Rednaxs60 » 51 minutes ago[/url]":qeqoykcd]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173014#p173014:qeqoykcd said:
Denver » Yesterday, 9:49 am[/url]":qeqoykcd]
Bin that damper plate while your in there, :headscratch: as well as fiber plates if their marginal, :good: the spring,rebuild the slave, & clutch master cylinder. :read: You should be done there, for a while. :smilie_happy:

For interest sake - why bin the damper?

Further to my last - have ordered clutch plates. Had a discussion with a friend about the clutch plates. This bike has towed a trailer and as soon as i mentioned that he did not hesitate in concurring with a clutch rebuild.

Cheers
 
Believe it's on the N G W web site. :headscratch: It's a solution to a non existing problem, :roll: & potential disaster waiting to happen! :sensored:
 
Went to the NGW Club site to get the skinny on this "bin the damper". Apparently it is because there have been catastrophic failures of this damper in the past. Honda originally had the damper near the pressure plate and after this not being as successful as anticipated, moved it to the centre of the clutch stack that worked much better.

The damper is a 2 plate sandwich kept together with brass rivets. It is the brass rivets that fail and if so, it will do other collateral damage that really ruins your day.

The fix is to install two additional plain plates (#5 in the fiche). One goes in the same place in the stack to replace the damper, the second one goes in against the pressure plate. You need two to have the same relative thickness as the original damper plate.

I discussed this with my parts guy as well. He had heard of it, but has never seen it done. He did mention that the purpose of the damper plate is to make up for our lack of shifting expertise. The engineers think of everything to protect us from ourselves.

Apparently replacing the damper plate will result in more crisp action of the clutch, I would think similar to upgrading brake lines to the SS braided teflon brake lines.

This is a readers digest version of what I read on the NGW Club site. Give it a visit, another perspective for sure.

Cheers
 
I don't know.....my clutch works great and as hard as I've been on it, that "special" plate looks fine with no loose rivets. I have read about removing it but I don't see a need. To each their own I guess.
 
As long as it has NEVER been abused it will probably not happen. :thank_you: But think about brass rivet's, how sturdy they are, & the damage it can do if they break. :headscratch: I've seen what happen's inside, when they do break, :crying: not a pretty sight, :nea: & he was lucky. :hihihi: Not as much damage, as what it could have been, :roll: but still more than the cost of the two steel plates, to avoid the possibility. :good:
 
Clutch parts came in, 9 friction plates. Going to bin the damper as well so 2 new disc plates. Took the clutch stack off the motor and had a good look at the disc plates. Almost all had bluing around the edges, and one was scored all round. Now waiting for new disc plates. PO had towed with it, so this probably helped attribute to the plate(s) condition. Also installed new SS teflon hydraulic clutch hoses - did this after noticing the hydraulic fluid was blackish in colour after I had flushed the system. I expect the rubber hoses were deteriorating inside. Also rebuilt the clutch master and slave.

Cheers
 
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