Another Alt Mod Install

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Rednaxs60

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Starting on the install of the engine and various other parts that I have been working on. Feels good to be on the other end instead of continuing to do work.

Installing the alt mod instead of the new stator. Had a week off to visit family and friends a couple of weeks ago, and on return had a refreshed look at what I had to do. Had the new stator in and, but I was having to find an o-ring that would seal the rear case plug. After several attempts, I succumbed because I should not have had to look for an o-ring and sent it back, and decided to install the alt mod.

Found a 55 amp alternator, a three wire hook up for $125.00 out the door. The alternator dimensions are 7 inches high by 5 1/2 inches long by 4 1/2 inches wide, and is a two point install. The dimensions are similar to the Chevy Mini Denso dimensions.
55 amp alt.jpg


Sourced the crank pulley off a '99 Prelude. It is a 4 inch pulley with a 12mm bore. For the spacer I have used 3-1/8 inch thick - 12mm bore washers and 2 bearings with 12mm bore. Here are pictures of the spacer and pulley:
Crank Pulley Parts.jpg

Crank Pulley 1.jpg

Crank Pulley and Spacer.jpg


I used a hole saw to modify the timing belt covers:
Timing Belt Covers Modified.jpg


I dry fitted the crank pulley and timing belt covers with the engine still out. The 4 inch crank pulley covers the inboard bolt of the right timing belt cover - above picture identifies which bolt. Because of this, I have to install the timing belt covers and crank pulley in a specific sequence starting with the right timing belt cover, the crank pulley, then the right timing belt cover.

I will also have to be aware of the small engine coolant hose that may have to be routed around the crank pulley and belt. When I test fitted the crank pulley and covers, I noticed that there may be very little clearance between this hose and the alternator belt.
Coolant Hose.jpg


I was also able to prep the left side under the upper fairing for the alternator bracket:
Alt Bracket.jpg


More on the install later.

Cheers
 
Hmm, 2 bearings for spacer. I'm not sure if that will work well. With nothing locking the pulley to crank, with load on the alternator I think the pulley will 'slip' on the crank.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174928#p174928:4pfws1n5 said:
Omega Man » Today, 7:01 am[/url]":4pfws1n5]
Why just a 55 amp unit? I put a ninety amp on my bike(GL1500), is the load/wiring that much different?

~O~
There is a pretty large bump in size of the housing over 55-60 amp. As it is the 55 is a tight fit behind the fairing lower.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174924#p174924:bow5yeaz said:
dan filipi » Today, 5:01 am[/url]":bow5yeaz]
Hmm, 2 bearings for spacer. I'm not sure if that will work well. With nothing locking the pulley to crank, with load on the alternator I think the pulley will 'slip' on the crank.

The pulley fit on the bolt is not quite a press fit, but is a good friction fit. For the pulley to slip it will have to turn on the bolt. The pulley is turning such that the bolt is being tightened so I'm anticipating that this will not be an issue. I could use a lock washer as well and have it tabbed to the pulley and bolt. Might be a good idea - saw this on another thread.

The bearings are only for spacing and are not intended to be turning on the bolt. I chose these bearings because of the internal bore, and the inner and outer races are quite sturdy.

i also have a couple of other possibilities that may turn up before I get the bike on the road. I'm hoping to have a purpose built pulley IAW the following drawing.
Pulley JPG.jpg


I'm looking forward to getting the bike together and trying out this mod.

Cheers
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174928#p174928:1zt4melm said:
Omega Man » Today, 6:01 am[/url]":1zt4melm]
Why just a 55 amp unit? I put a ninety amp on my bike(GL1500), is the load/wiring that much different?

~O~

A 55 amp alternator is significantly more than the max amps that the 490 watt/40ish amp (at 5000 rpm) stator will put out. As Dan mentioned, trying to keep it enclosed without a lot of modifications. Another issue is the 1500 and 1800 are meant to have an external alternator. I think Honda realized that it had maxed the stator size, recognized the issues and limitations of the stator; hence the change.

As for the load and wiring, don't know if there is a difference - expect there is, but the 55 amp alt should give me more than enough power for add-ons.

Cheers
 
I have found that when an external alternator is usually loaded at or near its max output they tend to not last as long as one that is running at much less than its max. 90 amps on a 1500 may be way over what it'll ever need but I think that contributes to its longevity and reliability.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174938#p174938:1vzkmw04 said:
Rednaxs60 » 24 minutes ago[/url]":1vzkmw04]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174924#p174924:1vzkmw04 said:
dan filipi » Today, 5:01 am[/url]":1vzkmw04]
Hmm, 2 bearings for spacer. I'm not sure if that will work well. With nothing locking the pulley to crank, with load on the alternator I think the pulley will 'slip' on the crank.

The pulley fit on the bolt is not quite a press fit, but is a good friction fit. For the pulley to slip it will have to turn on the bolt. The pulley is turning such that the bolt is being tightened so I'm anticipating that this will not be an issue. I could use a lock washer as well and have it tabbed to the pulley and bolt. Might be a good idea - saw this on another thread.

The bearings are only for spacing and are not intended to be turning on the bolt. I chose these bearings because of the internal bore, and the inner and outer races are quite sturdy.

i also have a couple of other possibilities that may turn up before I get the bike on the road. I'm hoping to have a purpose built pulley IAW the following drawing.

I'm looking forward to getting the bike together and trying out this mod.

Cheers
file.php
Star type lock washers could work real well here to lock it all down.
 
Have been busy sourcing parts and doing the brackets for the alt install. Have the alt installed and will be sourcing the belt tomorrow. Need a belt that is 85 1/2 cms (33 1/4 inch).

On the '85 LTD there is a coolant hose that goes between the water pump and thermostat housings. I think I have enough clearance that I will not have to relocate it.

Putting the brackets together was a challenge, as was finding a reasonable welder to finish the job.

Once I have the belt sourced and installed will be taking the alt off and painting the brackets.

Here's a picture of the alt and crank pulley.
Alt and crank pulley installed.jpg


Cheers
 
That's where i installed my Bad Boy horn, :hihihi: not a lot of room in there is there? :nea: Nice looking job, as long as everything fit's inside the plastic, & fan blade's free to spin, your golden. :good:
 
Sound's like it should work out fine. :yes: When space is tight thing's go a lot slower, :Awe: but when done you feel really good about it, :good: & like to look at your work. :smilie_happy:
 
When I did shop in high school, and when I took my training as a marine engineering artificer in our Navy, we spent more time on hand skills then we did learning the use of the machines. had to make a "V" block and clamp using a hacksaw and files to plus or minus 0.010". The instructors would use a calibrated flat table and dial indicator to mark. You felt a great sense of accomplishment when your project passed. Took a few tries to get through, but worth it.

I'm not as particular with some of the fabrication for this project, but have a workable, practical design made and installed. A strength of materials teacher I had in college mentioned that when we do a project, overkill is probably the nam of the game, unlike a properly engineered design that seems more flimsy to us. Both achieve the aim, just one is a bit heavier, more roust in our minds.

I have used 1" angle - mild steel for the alt brackets. The alternator installation feels quite solid. I gave it the "shake" test and it did not move. Will monitor, but quite confident it will perform quite well.

When I take the brackets off to paint, will measure and post the design.

Will be sourcing the belt this morning. Looking forward to gettingtheold girl back on the road.

Cheers
 
Mine is built very stout and even at that it will "vibrate" and wiggle ever so slightly at certain rpm especially with a tight belt. I would leave the belt just a bit looser than normal which stopped that vibration.
 
Did some more work this morning. Sourced a belt, NAPA Micro-V 25 P/N 040332 (9/16" by 33-3/4"), tight fit but it will work well. Had to move the lower bracket bolt hole to get as much room as possible for the install.

This will be the end result:
Alt install with belt.jpg


There is plenty of clearance between the belt and coolant line - in excess of 1/4":
Belt - Coolant Line Clearance.jpg


Had to modify the TPS cover. It has the securing nuts for the lower left fairing:
TPS Shield.jpg


The lower left fairing will have to be modified. Have to remove the cooling duct. This pic shows the cooling duct to be removed:
Cooling Duct To Be Removed.jpg


This pic shows the duct removed:
Cooling Duct Removed.jpg


Do believe that some plastic will have to be removed to accommodate the alternator next to the fairing. Have to map it out to make it look like it has always been there.

Tomorrow I hope to get started installing the radiator and cooling fan. Have an idea as to how I will make it work.

Everything is coming together. Lots more to do though.

Cheers
 
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