Speedometer is not functioning. I suspect Cable.

Today my speedometer stopped functioning as did the odometer. I suspect the cable is bad. At first the speedometer stopped working, except when I would step on the brake hard. Then it would work during a hard brake. Now it just doesn't work at all.
I suspect it's the speedometer cable broken or loose at the wheel. Fortunately, I have a GL1200 Standard and it is easy to remove. But how can I be sure what the problem is, and how do I disconnect the cable at the wheel?

If the 1200 speedo cable attachment at the wheel is like the 1100, there should be a Phillips head screw that secures the cable outer to the lower left fork. Remove then pull the jacket and cable from the speedo drive hub you can then pull the cable out of the jacket. If there is a squarish end on both ends then the cable is okay.

Reverse order to reinstall. May need to turn the cable with your fingers to engage and slide into the speedo.

The GL1200s have a speed sensor on the wheel that fits into a speedometer box assembly on the wheel. The most prevalent problem when this occurs is the speed sensor is the hall effect component inside the speed sensor. There are several threads on this;

Here are a few for your perusal:

https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic ... 12&t=28993
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... earch.html
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... -unit.html
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=35786

Cheers

Last speedo cable I messed with was on the 81. At the wheel the cable is slotted and fits onto a blade ( like a flat tip screwdriver) in the drive unit.

Here is a pic of my speedometer cable near the wheel. That sheath on the cable is loose from the part near the wheel and there is a noticeable gap between the two. Is that normal or is this what is broken?

It broken. Sheath is the housing. Cable has likely slid out of the speedometer because the housing is now about 1/2" longer. Might be able to clean it up and push it back in place and maybe hold it with hot glue.

'Splains why under hard braking the speedo worked....as the front end dipped the sheath moved inward.

So I assume this is easy to remove and replace on the Standard 1984?

If you have a replacement handy yes. Hardest part is routing it through all the obstacles.

I recall a broken drive assembly on my '84 Aspencade. It somehow bound up internally and the "dogs" that engage on the wheel stripped. From the look of your cable, I doubt that's your issue (and I don't think the unit is the same anyway as the Aspy needs that aforementioned Hall sensor for the digital guage). But, they all have the "dogs" that can get stripped.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=189798#p189798:wtomfln5 said:

desertrefugee » 50 minutes ago[/url]":wtomfln5]
I recall a broken drive assembly on my '84 Aspencade. It somehow bound up internally and the "dogs" that engage on the wheel stripped. From the look of your cable, I doubt that's your issue (and I don't think the unit is the same anyway as the Aspy needs that aforementioned Hall sensor for the digital guage). But, they all have the "dogs" that can get stripped.

Click to expand...

Yup, I am assuming its simply a broken cable.

I'm betting the cable is fine. Housing isn't though.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=189797#p189797:14zpy28i said:

slabghost » Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:00 pm[/url]":14zpy28i]
If you have a replacement handy yes. Hardest part is routing it through all the obstacles.

Click to expand...

In addition to this, that dang screw that holds the cable into the fork always seems to be my biggest problem. You cannot get a screwdriver on it squarely, so you run the risk of rounding off the screw.

Yep. Impact screwdriver is the best if you can make access. :yes:

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=189803#p189803:8h2durpx said:

brianinpa » Yesterday, 6:53 pm[/url]":8h2durpx]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=189797#p189797:8h2durpx said:

slabghost » Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:00 pm[/url]":8h2durpx]
If you have a replacement handy yes. Hardest part is routing it through all the obstacles.

Click to expand...

In addition to this, that dang screw that holds the cable into the fork always seems to be my biggest problem. You cannot get a screwdriver on it squarely, so you run the risk of rounding off the screw.

Click to expand...

Since you have the same bike I do, could you post a pic of where this difficult screw is?

The 1200 faces back and is easier than the 1100 which faces out the side..





Oops! I went to Oz...

:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
As long as you didn't get a head rush while you were down there. :doh:

I've seen the toilet flush in the opposite direct a few times before!

It took a while, but it appears I got the picture turned around (or one of the mods did it). I hate working from a cell phone!

This bike came missing the right side cover, but I had one from my 84 parts bike. It didn't look too good because the previous owner decided to pain it the easy was...

Black spray paint over everything.







Gerry mentioned colorite, so I gave them a look and bought one can of spray paint. I'm glad I only needed to paint a side cover, because $38.00 for one can or spray paint was hard to swallow.

Well, I think it was worth it.



Then I needed to do something with the emblems, so I put a brass wire brush into my drill press and it cleaned them up pretty well.





Now I need to find a pin stripe for the cover that isn't gold lined.

Looking good Brian. :salute: