84 GL1200I Key Switch Issue?

:hi: Turn switch to "run"; Neutral light comes on, but no headlight, dash indicators, or running lights. Fiddle with the switch enough and may get the head and running lights, oil, taillight, etc, to light up. Bike starts and runs OK, but no lights. Digital voltmeter shows 13 - 14 volts at fast idle (PO said stator was replaced).

Seems like it's always necessary to take something electrical apart and clean it, then coat it with electrical grease. :builder: I guess that's why I bought the big tube!!

If it was easy, everyone would do it and the bikes wouldn't be so cheap...

Definitely sounds like the contacts in the switch need to be cleaned.

I recall there being some significant issue with the ignition switch on the 84's. (I had one). I believe there might have been a recall and I don't remember the exact issue, but if yours is original, it might need more than must cleaning.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=192413#p192413:2f09j3pm said:

brianinpa » Wed Jun 28, 2017 5:15 am[/url]":2f09j3pm]
If it was easy, everyone would do it and the bikes wouldn't be so cheap...

Click to expand...

Ain't that the truth... :yes:

Just had a similar issue with the switch on a cb750. The contacts are rivited in to the plastic connector. They were worn and sloppy, I tightened them with a hammer and punch, then cleaned...works pretty good now. Be careful, the plastic connector only comes off when the key is in the correct position. Wish I knew which position to suggest for disassembly but alas I'm just a hack at this one!

took the switch apart and --
polished all the contacts
stretched each spring a little to increase the pressure on the contacts
lubed everything with a light coat of bulb grease
checked each wire for looseness
Reassembled it and the switch still over-strokes past the run position. It will work if you turn the key counter-clockwise a few degrees after you hit the run position, but I want it to work correctly the first time.
I guess that's one of many reasons I was able to get this basket case for $400

The extra movement is likely in the lock cylinder portion. If that is bothersome to you then a new assembly is probably what you'll need.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193006#p193006:1ny47r1x said:

PurpleGL1200I » Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:55 am[/url]":1ny47r1x]
Reassembled it and the switch still over-strokes past the run position. It will work if you turn the key counter-clockwise a few degrees after you hit the run position.

Click to expand...

My '82 1100 does that once in a while too. For the 10 years I have been riding the bike, I just turn it back a touch until it clicks and the lights come on. It is only a matter of the switch passing the detent. A new switch will most likely stop that from happening, but mine has been as reliable as ever even with that issue and some 30K miles on the bike like this.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193019#p193019:wl4el3vp said:

mcgovern61 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:03 am[/url]":wl4el3vp]

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193006#p193006:wl4el3vp said:

PurpleGL1200I » Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:55 am[/url]":wl4el3vp]
Reassembled it and the switch still over-strokes past the run position. It will work if you turn the key counter-clockwise a few degrees after you hit the run position.

Click to expand...

My '82 1100 does that once in a while too. For the 10 years I have been riding the bike, I just turn it back a touch until it clicks and the lights come on. It is only a matter of the switch passing the detent. A new switch will most likely stop that from happening, but mine has been as reliable as ever even with that issue and some 30K miles on the bike like this.

Click to expand...

The Rats Nest does the same thing.