Thinking about my 1984 Gl1200 Oil Leak

Hello everyone,

There has been a slight oil leak on my 1984 GL1200 since I bought it two years ago. I tried having a shop replace one or two of the gaskets or seals but that didn't seem to help.

Recently I have been looking closer and it looks like there is a chip or very small piece broken off the clutch cover where it joins the slave cylinder. I was wondering if you guys think that is the most likely source of the leak or if you think you see something else.

Take a look at my video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lulqW3TpIuk&feature=youtu.be

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lulqW3TpIuk&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Nice bike.

I'm pretty sure oil does circulate thru that point with the chip but I'd confirm that is in fact where the leak is coming from. Clean it well everywhere then run it on the center stand. Might need to run it thru the gears and wheel spinning to get oil moving, then shut down and look for fresh oil. If needed, that cover will come out with engine in the frame.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=192579#p192579:3cli1wpi said:

marcusknight » Sat Jul 01, 2017 10:05 pm[/url]":3cli1wpi]
"Pokey thing..."

Click to expand...

:smilie_happy: :good: :smilie_happy:
No need for such hi-tech terminology here, Marcus..... :hihihi:

IF the oil is definitely coming from that "chipped" area, it is prolly because there is no support for the gasket right there. You could most likely "fix" the leak by removing the cover, and using a hi temp silicone sealer instead of the gasket. Let the silicone completely set up for 12 hours or so before starting it up and running it. You could also use a new gasket and some 3M aviation sealer in the area of the chip to stop the leak. If using a sealant doesn't fix it, then you may need to replace the rear cover.... :crying:

The high temp sealer is a good idea. I don't think there is any pressurized oil right there. Sealant would at least confirm that's where the leak is. Replace the cover later then if you want to. At least could get you thru riding season.

When I bought the bike, there was some type of red goop on that area and I think the shop cleaned that off when they attempted to fix the problem by replacing that gasket.

I suppose I could try applying some sealer over that gap. Any sealer brand recommendations?

My big question is, if I decide to replace that clutch cover, would that involve draining just the engine oil, or would I have to drain the Clutch brake fluid as well? I don't know what all comes apart on something like this when you take off the clutch cover.

Use the orange high temp.

Only need to drain oil to remove the back cover.

Soooo, no gooey brake fluid mess if I unbolt that clutch cover? and then unbolt the slave cylinder from the clutch cover, which is what I would have to do to replace that clutch cover.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=192649#p192649:30xhx6y0 said:

marcusknight » 2 minutes ago[/url]":30xhx6y0]
Soooo, no gooey brake fluid mess if I unbolt that clutch cover? and then unbolt the slave cylinder from the clutch cover, which is what I would have to do to replace that clutch cover.

Click to expand...

You won't loose any brake fluid unless you were to loosen the fluid line connected to the cylinder.

Ok thank you. After draining oil, does anything fall out of place when I unbolt either the slave cylinder or the clutch cover?

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=192665#p192665:1s0qssqb said:

marcusknight » 14 minutes ago[/url]":1s0qssqb]
Ok thank you. After draining oil, does anything fall out of place when I unbolt either the slave cylinder or the clutch cover?

Click to expand...

I'm not sure at this point but I think there will be only an actuator pin that is probably loose and may drop out.

While you have the cover off you might want to fill in that chipped area with Some metal epoxy of your choice. make it nice and flat and even with the rest of the gasket surface.

If you use a silicone on the mating surface just use a very thin layer, you don`t want excess silicone squeezed into the engine, not that it will hurt but its just more junk on your oil pickup screen, as an external remedy pour it on if you want..probably finding its way out under crankcase pressure then when parked the pressure and splashing stops, check your crankcase ventilation hoses for pinches while your at it.
Best thing is to do if the chip is the culprit clean the outside area , take apart and clean(brake clean) chipped area and fill it with a JB weld then carefully file it down, it will take some talent to not bugger up the good surface so you will need clear access to the area and go slow and careful, or you can try the above and fill the crack with silicone and even it out with the mating surface ,let it dry then reassemble, might work as well.

As the epoxy sets it is temporarily of a plastic consistency. At that point you can cut off most of the excess cleanly with a razor blade or knife.

I am going to replace 2 oil seals under the slave cylinder and clutch cover. 91204-MBO-013 and 91209-MB0-003. My question is, when I take off the slave cylinder cover, is it going to be hard to remove these seals, or is there a special technique in getting these out and replaced?

Hmmmm I've never done it yet ....

Yeah, I was thinking about that little chip in the clutch cover being the problem where it meets the slave cylinder cover, but considering there are no seals or gaskets right at that point, I find it hard to believe that is the problem. More likely the seals themselves being bad. So I am going to replace them.


https://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_sect ... veh=132497

Replacing Numbers 14 and 15 in the diagram above.