My '85 LTD has had a stumble/miss under 3000 RPM and it only just stated a month or so ago. I have been wondering when the FI system sensors would start to give me grief because the bike now has 139,000 Km on it (I've put 24,000 Kms on it in the past 19 months even with the work downtime). 33 year old sensors degrade and are affected by heat.
I read where the PB (pressure barometric) can cause this so I tested them, within spec and tried the system with one detached then the other. The bike will run with only one PB hooked up. Hoping this was the issue but no joy.
Checked the Gr/Gl camshaft sensor as well. Other than the air gap being to wide - quick fix - these are good as well.
Tested the TPS for resistance and it came in at 2.6K instead of between 4K and 6K. This is the one sensor I did not want to have go. I also have the alt mod as well that is going to make this repair more challenging.
I have the bike apart and took the TPS out. I have read the PDF files on replacing the TPS with an automotive TPS or a BEI-Duncan rheostat.
To get to the TPS, I had to remove the lower fairings, take off the rad, and remove the cover plate that provides cover for the upper part of the engine.
Here you can see the TPS with all the interference items removed:
The securing bolts have break off heads leaving a rounded head:
I used a dremel tool to slot the TPS bolts and got lucky taking them out:
I cut the wires below the fairing and can splice/attach new wires. I did this so I could keep the OEM connector, I had already spliced in some wire taps so I could test the TPS at regular intervals, and I did not want to go through the hassle of routing new wires through the plethora of wires that are present.
Since the TPS is going to be replaced, I decided to take it apart to see what makes it tick. Here is a disassembled TPS:
Here is a picture of the rheostat and internal workings of the TPS:
I will be taking the rheostat to my local electrical/electronic shop tomorrow to have a chin wag about a possible replacement.
Good day all round, especially getting the TPS out without too much of a hassle. While I have the engine coolant drained, intend to remove the air valve and clean it as well.
More to follow.
Cheers
I read where the PB (pressure barometric) can cause this so I tested them, within spec and tried the system with one detached then the other. The bike will run with only one PB hooked up. Hoping this was the issue but no joy.
Checked the Gr/Gl camshaft sensor as well. Other than the air gap being to wide - quick fix - these are good as well.
Tested the TPS for resistance and it came in at 2.6K instead of between 4K and 6K. This is the one sensor I did not want to have go. I also have the alt mod as well that is going to make this repair more challenging.
I have the bike apart and took the TPS out. I have read the PDF files on replacing the TPS with an automotive TPS or a BEI-Duncan rheostat.
To get to the TPS, I had to remove the lower fairings, take off the rad, and remove the cover plate that provides cover for the upper part of the engine.
Here you can see the TPS with all the interference items removed:
I cut the wires below the fairing and can splice/attach new wires. I did this so I could keep the OEM connector, I had already spliced in some wire taps so I could test the TPS at regular intervals, and I did not want to go through the hassle of routing new wires through the plethora of wires that are present.
Since the TPS is going to be replaced, I decided to take it apart to see what makes it tick. Here is a disassembled TPS:
I will be taking the rheostat to my local electrical/electronic shop tomorrow to have a chin wag about a possible replacement.
Good day all round, especially getting the TPS out without too much of a hassle. While I have the engine coolant drained, intend to remove the air valve and clean it as well.
More to follow.
Cheers