Question on removing slave cylinder

Greetings,

I am planning to replace the engine oil seals that are under the clutch cover on my 1984 GL1200 (numbers 14 and 15 on the attached picture). In order to do that I have to remove the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder itself is not leaking, but my question is if you remove it, I assume no clutch fluid will pour out if that seal (number 9) is in tact. Is that correct?

I'd have to look at one to be sure, but I think that once you pull #15, you will have brake fluid coming out of the clutch slave.

Hmmm... must be number 14 then that is the leaky seal for the engine oil. Has anyone had experience removing that seal? Is it hard to get out?

This is #15 on the back side of the slave cylinder.



This is #14 which keeps the engine oil out...



It's not hard to get at once you have the clutch cover off.

Not at that point :smilie_happy:Keep at it :yes:

So I removed the clutch cover bolts and nuts. But the dang cover is still stuck on there. Doesn't exactly come off like butter. What's the right method to get it loose without causing damage?

I am a bit concerned about using blunt force just because there are studs going through a couple of the holes on the cover on the lower right side.

Grab a small block of wood, press it against the side of the cover and apply the real force (coupla raps with a hammer) to the wood. If all the fasteners are out, it'll pop off.

Looked at the OEM service manual and there appears to be two dowel pins to locate the clutch cover. I'd be easy on the sideways force.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=195592#p195592:1ljcdhqu said:

Rednaxs60 » 2 minutes ago[/url]":1ljcdhqu]
Looked at the OEM service manual and there appears to be two dowel pins to locate the clutch cover. I'd be easy on the sideways force.

Click to expand...

Indeed I agree. Though I dont think that wedging in a small flathead screwdriver is a good option either. Hence, I am stumped.

[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=195592#p195592:3bnfwtv7 said:

Rednaxs60 » Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:53 pm[/url]":3bnfwtv7]
Looked at the OEM service manual and there appears to be two dowel pins to locate the clutch cover. I'd be easy on the sideways force.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that one. I wasn't thinking GL enough. Didn't know about the alignment pins. I would still bet that a little lateral force might be enough to break it loose.

I agree with desertrefugee. I'd go easy and use a smaller hammer.

If the slave cylinder still works at all you may get enough push from it through pulling the clutch lever to the bar before tapping on the cover.

Along with the two dowel pins, you also have the two studs to deal with. Add to that any RTV that a previous owner may have used, and you may need a little more than a couple of taps with a hammer. I've always used a putty knife and hand pressure to remove the clutch cover. As long as you have six bolts and two nuts in your hand, it should come off.

Yeah I am wondering if the last time the this cover was reattached if they used a sealer in addition to the gasket. Is this common? Should I be doing that when I reattach the cover?

Also I was wondering if one could try and remove that small center oil seal without removing the cover. Seems like a long shot considering how cramped it is in there. But I thought I would run the idea by you guys.

Hmmm gasket needs no crap put on it ..anyway I never use anything ....I'd say just get it all clean there's a rear cover pump there to put oil back to motor ...those things done are the most important to do for clutch...in my opinion

I agree with joedrum, very little if any gasket goo should be used. Did my clutch last year and put together dry.

Agreed seal and O'ring keeps the fluid where it belongs.