Wingnurse
New member
GL1200 modifications
Concerned and aware of manufacturers obsession to drain vehicle proprietor money I bought an negleged incomplete dissambled Aspencade 1200. The missed water inlet showed the water pump plastic impeller broken in two pieces. The 10mm shaft was good. The 26mm OD bearing #6000 are cheap and the 28.5mm mech seal head was no problem but I could not get the impeller. I got an used WP with metal impeller, I guess its after market. 12mm shaft, 28mm OD bearing (6001RS) and 30mm mech seal. I repaired this one.
After buy some missed parts and startup the expensive 18mm threaded fan switch was bad. I got an adjustable FS with a 18mm bushing and pluged its bulb into.
I ordered a 3" thick radiator for a pressureless cooling system. The power consuming leaking bad elect fuel pump was replaced for a vacuum operated lawn mower FP pluged in #4 intake were antiburn was conected. (I removed the suction consuming safety valve inside the fuel tank cap). I removed the unneeded choke cable after an old fuel tank cap with an attached rubber bulb manually pumps air into fuel tank to fill carbs after long resting.
The hidden pilots ruined the M6x0.5 thread in carbs body and I made 4 homemade pilots from M3x35 metric SS screws with its end grinding pointless flat that thread into a neoprene hose 3mm ID x 6mm OD x 20mm long inserted into pilots housing. Fuel mixture was too rich in middle and high rpm and I closed the about 2mm vacuum hole in the bottom of the slides. Inside each slides I put the equivalent weigh to 14.5 cents. I did cut all the way thru the half way tiny groove in the slide covers to connect atmosphere to the chamber in the top of the diaphragm that stay there disactivated. Engine suction itself lift up slides and weighs.
With the carb bank outside I cut a 3mm wide 2" long tracing paper 0.0015" thick and adjust the butterfly 4, 2, 3, 1 letting escape the paper with some effort in close position for idle. That aperture give 600 to 700 rpm in hot after adjust pilots.
Some times, right side carbs leaked fuel when MC in side stand. The book say set float bottom 7.5mm over gasket (carb up side down). Depending FP pressure that is about 1-1/2 oz in the bowl. The bowl cap removed of the carb has 1 oz maximum capacity. 1-1/2 oz submerge gasket and pilot. I set float bottom 11 mm over gasket getting 1 oz. (I had to grinding 1 mm down the float bump in the bowl). I made a tool drilling a 3/16" hole in the wall next to the bottom of a galon can metal cap and welded (tin) one ft plus of 3/16" brake tubing to collect fuel from bowl for measuring purpose. Push/pull carb cable free play provoque cracy erratic Idle in hot, same as low fuel level in carb does. Book say some free play but I set cero play/free return.
Every time the fuel gauge lower line flash for a while idle get cracy erratic as starving. I removed the fuel sensor to discover my Aspen carries 3/4 useless gallon of fuel because the pump suck air in that level. Inside the tank a 1/4 inch steel tubing run from pecko valve until sender area where make a 90° turn forward the right side wall with the screen in its end touching that wall and separated about 1/2 inch from the bottom. The tubing is holded to the bottom for some spotwelded clamps. With a minimaglite, masked the bottom and using caution I center punched the tubing one inch from the screen with a drywall screw in the tip of a 20 inches screwdriver. With a chuck extension turned by hand I step drilled the tubing until cut it. Then I lay it down the naked tubing tip very close to the bottom under the holding clamp between both walls. Idle get cracy now when 1/8 gl remain in the tank.
Oil leak thru the stator grommet Oring forced me to buy an extra rear cover with stator incluyed. On the extra RC stator outlet hole I welded an one inch OD x 3/4" long aluminum piece inclined 45° forward a bit south of Stator casing center plug. Drilled and tapped 1/4 npt in the welded piece to thread in a compress connector to pass the wires thru.(wires welded to stator coils). Removing /reinstalling the engine in the frame teach me that disconnect/connect the Ujoint is the more important step just before/after move the right side engine mount OUT or IN. I suffered compressing the ujoint back with a lock plier but I made a tool for the future if I have to repeat.
The removed (first) stator grommet is aluminum in its outer area. I have read it is aftermarket. I never checked voltage on it, but I remember the lights bright up over 800 rpm no less. The extra stator that I put in now (second) had fiber grommet. I got concerned after I saw no change in the light when raising up rpm, but the guy put 14.5V @640 rpm. May be because I cleaned all connections when changing RC. The rectifier get 135°F, I do not know if is normal.
I think aftermarket stator (first) must has more output than mfgr. The crank seal leak hit me hard. Honda discontinued that seal and there is not 35x59x8 metric seal in the market. GL1500 seal is that dimension with opposite rotation splines stamped on lip. I grinded down the splines of a 1500 seal with not 100% success. I will tray to adapt a 35x60x8 or a 35x58x8 seal.
I enjoy my Aspy idling at 640rpm as a swiss clock, but when hot the red oil light blink. The blink disappear at 700 rpm. I did put an after marked hi volumen oil pump in my old jeep but MC mfgr do not make that. I have an extra used OP that I will grind down its casing faces to reduce linear gear play. Oil pump job is coming.
Concerned and aware of manufacturers obsession to drain vehicle proprietor money I bought an negleged incomplete dissambled Aspencade 1200. The missed water inlet showed the water pump plastic impeller broken in two pieces. The 10mm shaft was good. The 26mm OD bearing #6000 are cheap and the 28.5mm mech seal head was no problem but I could not get the impeller. I got an used WP with metal impeller, I guess its after market. 12mm shaft, 28mm OD bearing (6001RS) and 30mm mech seal. I repaired this one.
After buy some missed parts and startup the expensive 18mm threaded fan switch was bad. I got an adjustable FS with a 18mm bushing and pluged its bulb into.
I ordered a 3" thick radiator for a pressureless cooling system. The power consuming leaking bad elect fuel pump was replaced for a vacuum operated lawn mower FP pluged in #4 intake were antiburn was conected. (I removed the suction consuming safety valve inside the fuel tank cap). I removed the unneeded choke cable after an old fuel tank cap with an attached rubber bulb manually pumps air into fuel tank to fill carbs after long resting.
The hidden pilots ruined the M6x0.5 thread in carbs body and I made 4 homemade pilots from M3x35 metric SS screws with its end grinding pointless flat that thread into a neoprene hose 3mm ID x 6mm OD x 20mm long inserted into pilots housing. Fuel mixture was too rich in middle and high rpm and I closed the about 2mm vacuum hole in the bottom of the slides. Inside each slides I put the equivalent weigh to 14.5 cents. I did cut all the way thru the half way tiny groove in the slide covers to connect atmosphere to the chamber in the top of the diaphragm that stay there disactivated. Engine suction itself lift up slides and weighs.
With the carb bank outside I cut a 3mm wide 2" long tracing paper 0.0015" thick and adjust the butterfly 4, 2, 3, 1 letting escape the paper with some effort in close position for idle. That aperture give 600 to 700 rpm in hot after adjust pilots.
Some times, right side carbs leaked fuel when MC in side stand. The book say set float bottom 7.5mm over gasket (carb up side down). Depending FP pressure that is about 1-1/2 oz in the bowl. The bowl cap removed of the carb has 1 oz maximum capacity. 1-1/2 oz submerge gasket and pilot. I set float bottom 11 mm over gasket getting 1 oz. (I had to grinding 1 mm down the float bump in the bowl). I made a tool drilling a 3/16" hole in the wall next to the bottom of a galon can metal cap and welded (tin) one ft plus of 3/16" brake tubing to collect fuel from bowl for measuring purpose. Push/pull carb cable free play provoque cracy erratic Idle in hot, same as low fuel level in carb does. Book say some free play but I set cero play/free return.
Every time the fuel gauge lower line flash for a while idle get cracy erratic as starving. I removed the fuel sensor to discover my Aspen carries 3/4 useless gallon of fuel because the pump suck air in that level. Inside the tank a 1/4 inch steel tubing run from pecko valve until sender area where make a 90° turn forward the right side wall with the screen in its end touching that wall and separated about 1/2 inch from the bottom. The tubing is holded to the bottom for some spotwelded clamps. With a minimaglite, masked the bottom and using caution I center punched the tubing one inch from the screen with a drywall screw in the tip of a 20 inches screwdriver. With a chuck extension turned by hand I step drilled the tubing until cut it. Then I lay it down the naked tubing tip very close to the bottom under the holding clamp between both walls. Idle get cracy now when 1/8 gl remain in the tank.
Oil leak thru the stator grommet Oring forced me to buy an extra rear cover with stator incluyed. On the extra RC stator outlet hole I welded an one inch OD x 3/4" long aluminum piece inclined 45° forward a bit south of Stator casing center plug. Drilled and tapped 1/4 npt in the welded piece to thread in a compress connector to pass the wires thru.(wires welded to stator coils). Removing /reinstalling the engine in the frame teach me that disconnect/connect the Ujoint is the more important step just before/after move the right side engine mount OUT or IN. I suffered compressing the ujoint back with a lock plier but I made a tool for the future if I have to repeat.
The removed (first) stator grommet is aluminum in its outer area. I have read it is aftermarket. I never checked voltage on it, but I remember the lights bright up over 800 rpm no less. The extra stator that I put in now (second) had fiber grommet. I got concerned after I saw no change in the light when raising up rpm, but the guy put 14.5V @640 rpm. May be because I cleaned all connections when changing RC. The rectifier get 135°F, I do not know if is normal.
I think aftermarket stator (first) must has more output than mfgr. The crank seal leak hit me hard. Honda discontinued that seal and there is not 35x59x8 metric seal in the market. GL1500 seal is that dimension with opposite rotation splines stamped on lip. I grinded down the splines of a 1500 seal with not 100% success. I will tray to adapt a 35x60x8 or a 35x58x8 seal.
I enjoy my Aspy idling at 640rpm as a swiss clock, but when hot the red oil light blink. The blink disappear at 700 rpm. I did put an after marked hi volumen oil pump in my old jeep but MC mfgr do not make that. I have an extra used OP that I will grind down its casing faces to reduce linear gear play. Oil pump job is coming.
