Snapped bolt on Clutch Cover

I have a snapped bolt on the clutch cover. Seeking the best way to remove it. Please watch my video.

https://youtu.be/cQ3t8sck7to

[video]https://youtu.be/cQ3t8sck7to[/video]

First thing I'd do is ride it ...and see if it leaks ...if it don't I'd just wait till later on when you have to take the cover off for another reason ...there's not a whole lot of pressure there and the cover is plenty stout to seal with a bolt missing ...it's not like it's a head gasket with loads of pressure ...I have a starter bolt that was broke off on my bike hooch and rigged it so starter stays put ...been like that for years ...as it was to difficult to remove buried bolt that might fracture into oil galley and ruin motor ...

It actually does leak. I must have not stated that in the video.

I broke one of the intake bolts a few months ago. Luckily for me when I removed the intake tube i was able to take out the broken part in the engine block with my finger since the bolt did not tight to the thread. I would try get one of those telescopic magnet tool that fits in there and try to turn out and remove the broken bolt.
Good luck!

Would a right angle drill have enough clearance? Good luck! I guess if there is any good news... the worst case is that you will only need to change the rear case.

That looks like it is in there deep. That may be one that you need to pull the engine, remove the clutch cover, try to drill out the bolt and then clean up the threads or install a heli-coil if there is enough metal.

I think you have to just take the cover back off, this happens and you just have to go with it.. don`t fight it by trying to make it easy. After it is off I would bet you can get some tiny needle nose pliers on it, try and grab only the screw with the prongs, if your pliers drag on the edges it will make it harder, try tweezers maybe first then the tiny needle nose.
Probably is loose in the threads just need some finesse to get it out..take your time...some times I have used a tiny stiff pick along one edge and slowly turned it back out or at least enough to grab it with tweezers or needle nose.
Also a well placed small mirror would help.

If it isn't tight in the threads . I have just put a drop of super glue on the break and put the bolt back together and backed it out. Not often that works but it's great when it does.

Hmmm. Never tried that, but might just work on stuff like this that shouldn't (SHOULDN'T) have a lot of torque on the bolts. Which reminds me of an item on my growing list of pet peeves - previous owners who grossly over-tighten EVERYTHING.

That be nice if that worked ...

Let the super glue set up overnight.

Knowing my luck it would run down the threads and glue the broken part in.... :doh:

Had a look at your video. The bolt in question was already out and you snapped it putting it back in. From the look of the broken bolt, the broken piece in the rear cover is too far in and you will not be able to get pliers or anything else on the piece to remove it. You will have to remove the clutch cover regardless, even if it is to just see how far in the broken piece actually is.

Never heard of using super glue before but stranger things have happened.

If something like that does not work, my recommendation is to remove the engine and drill the broken piece so you can use an "easy out"/stud extractor and remove the broken piece. If this does not work, drill the broken piece completely, tap and use a new bolt. The bolt is steel, the case is aluminum. Easy for the drill bit to wander when drilling into the broken steel piece and ruin the rear cover especially when you cannot see what you are doing.

In my thoughts, there is no easy quick fix for your issue, and to try and do this with the engine in the bike will not result in success. There is not a lot of room with the engine in the bike for drills, extractors and such, and you need to see what you are doing. If you do try with the engine in the bike, I would source a new to you rear cover (the one the clutch cover fits on) and have it on hand. The bike is already out of commission because of the leaking clutch cover.

To centre punch the broken piece I would use a spring loaded self-striking centre punch like this: https://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... at=1,43456

Not the easiest way to do the fix, and probably did not want to hear this, but you need to see what you are doing, and you need room. Have learned over the years and from personal experience that the easy way out is sometimes not the least expensive, and I always had time and money to do it twice.

Good luck.

Cheers

In dealing with aircraft repair many times a hole would need to be duplicated on center with respect to an existing hole in another part for that we would use what we called handle bushings. The OD would fit the existing hole and it would have a hole for a smaller drill centered in the bushing. So what I am getting to is I would have a bushing made that its OD would fit the existing hole in the clutch cover with a .001 / .003 clearance. And it would have a hole through the center that is sized for about an 1/8th drill, preferably a left twist. The bushing would be long enough to bottom out in the hole so it would be close to the broken part of the bolt and stick out of the hole enough so it could be removed (this is where a handle would be attached … hence the term handle bushing). Making the bushing would be a simple project if one has access to a lathe. This would insure that the hole is drilled into the center of the broken bolt. Next best thing to setting it up in a mill. Best of luck !

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196358#p196358:3r0hkahu said:

indianakid » Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:40 pm[/url]":3r0hkahu]
In dealing with aircraft repair many times a hole would need to be duplicated on center with respect to an existing hole in another part for that we would use what we called handle bushings. The OD would fit the existing hole and it would have a hole for a smaller drill centered in the bushing. So what I am getting to is I would have a bushing made that its OD would fit the existing hole in the clutch cover with a .001 / .003 clearance. And it would have a hole through the center that is sized for about an 1/8th drill, preferably a left twist. The bushing would be long enough to bottom out in the hole so it would be close to the broken part of the bolt and stick out of the hole enough so it could be removed (this is where a handle would be attached … hence the term handle bushing). Making the bushing would be a simple project if one has access to a lathe. This would insure that the hole is drilled into the center of the broken bolt. Next best thing to setting it up in a mill. Best of luck !

Click to expand...

That is an excellent idea! :thanks:

+1
Much better than my grinding and trying to centre punch the middle.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196358#p196358:avxuoyp6 said:

indianakid » Yesterday, 7:40 pm[/url]":avxuoyp6]
In dealing with aircraft repair many times a hole would need to be duplicated on center with respect to an existing hole in another part for that we would use what we called handle bushings. The OD would fit the existing hole and it would have a hole for a smaller drill centered in the bushing. So what I am getting to is I would have a bushing made that its OD would fit the existing hole in the clutch cover with a .001 / .003 clearance. And it would have a hole through the center that is sized for about an 1/8th drill, preferably a left twist. The bushing would be long enough to bottom out in the hole so it would be close to the broken part of the bolt and stick out of the hole enough so it could be removed (this is where a handle would be attached … hence the term handle bushing). Making the bushing would be a simple project if one has access to a lathe. This would insure that the hole is drilled into the center of the broken bolt. Next best thing to setting it up in a mill. Best of luck !

Click to expand...

Great idea, have to take the engine out.