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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#1  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 4:01 pm

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'78 GL1000

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I'm accumulating bits to complete the hydraulic clutch conversion on my 1000. I have everything I need - or thought I did. The clutch hose I sourced (a nice braided steel unit) is just that, the hose. On the 1200, it's the line from the master cylinder down to the "pipe" that completes the path back to the slave.

That's the part I need. If I had been smart, I would have just measured the run and sourced a hose for the entire path. But, I do kind of like the notion of a steel pipe to minimize "squishiness".

Here's my question: Does anyone have photos that show how that puppy routes back? As I recall, it traverses from left side to right side where it goes to the slave with a short length of integrated hose.

Not asking for special photos, but I cannot seem to find any that show the routing of this pipe. And I sure have looked.

Thanks.

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"Time on a motorcycle is unlike time spent anywhere else. There are moments lost in the landscape, seconds devoted solely to balance, and long stretches spent spiraling inward.”

― Barbara Schoichet


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#2  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 4:18 pm

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I haven't actually looked on my 1200s but you can use the nickle copper tubing very easily and route it up under the faux tank to the neck. Stuff is great for being able to form it easily.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#3  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 4:29 pm

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Yes it hose down to the left side and around the carbs and filter ..then crosses over to right side and back to clutch cover bout with bracket and hose from there I'm thinking....yah to bad you didn't get whole thing ...on a 1000 bike it's bit off as frames are different

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#4  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 4:39 pm

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...on a 1000 bike it's bit off as frames are different


I sorta knew there were some changes to the frame, but am hoping it's close enough to do the job.

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"Time on a motorcycle is unlike time spent anywhere else. There are moments lost in the landscape, seconds devoted solely to balance, and long stretches spent spiraling inward.”

― Barbara Schoichet


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#5  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 4:43 pm

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Use the nickle copper it'll be easy.

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Vote NO on taxes, levies, and incumbents.
Every day I learn I know less than I thought I did.
Every time something is made idiot proof. The world produces a better idiot!
Maturity like wisdom seldom arrives without age. Far too often though age arrives without either.
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Politicians are like diapers. They need changed often. For the same reason.
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#6  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 4:57 pm

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I've got the whole set up on hooch ...so it works

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thank god and hooch im gone


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#7  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 5:41 pm

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'78 GL1000

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Use the nickle copper it'll be easy.


But, but, but...I'd have to spring for a brake tube flaring tool. I have an LP gas flarer, but not brake. Trying -without much success- to keep cost down on this project.

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"Time on a motorcycle is unlike time spent anywhere else. There are moments lost in the landscape, seconds devoted solely to balance, and long stretches spent spiraling inward.”

― Barbara Schoichet


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#8  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 6:04 pm

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look on e-bay for a 86 gl 1200 they have a few sets that should give you a better idea.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#9  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 6:08 pm

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Location: Victoria, BC,
Local time: October 22nd, 2017, 2:14 am
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My Rides: 1985 GL1200 LTD
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I'm accumulating bits to complete the hydraulic clutch conversion on my 1000. I have everything I need - or thought I did. The clutch hose I sourced (a nice braided steel unit) is just that, the hose. On the 1200, it's the line from the master cylinder down to the "pipe" that completes the path back to the slave.

That's the part I need. If I had been smart, I would have just measured the run and sourced a hose for the entire path. But, I do kind of like the notion of a steel pipe to minimize "squishiness".

Here's my question: Does anyone have photos that show how that puppy routes back? As I recall, it traverses from left side to right side where it goes to the slave with a short length of integrated hose.

Not asking for special photos, but I cannot seem to find any that show the routing of this pipe. And I sure have looked.

Thanks.


I replaced the clutch hydraulic hose on my '85 LTD and used a SS line all the way from the clutch MC. I kept the join where the hose transitions just in front of the air box. This made it easier to route the new line, and adjust for any misalignment with the banjo fittings at the MC and slave.

Since the SS line is actually a teflon line with a SS braid protective skin, there should be no "squishiness" in the system. It's the teflon line inside the SS braid that is the structural aspect of the line, and it resists flexing quite well. I wouldn't get too wrapped up with the notion of a steel pipe in the routing, it's not going to be long enough to make a significant difference.

Just a thought.

Cheers

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"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"

Ernest


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#10  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 6:59 pm

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Location: eastern Ohio
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My Rides: 98 Valkyrie, 84 Standard, X2 80GL1100,81GL1100,82KZ750,81 Seca750 ++

Profile Personal album

Use the nickle copper it'll be easy.


But, but, but...I'd have to spring for a brake tube flaring tool. I have an LP gas flarer, but not brake. Trying -without much success- to keep cost down on this project.

Get a 4-5 ft line already flared with metric fittings. Any extra you can coil or bend out of view. No need to buy a flaring tool. Primary issue will be clamping the flex line at the fitting so it doesn't bend the hard line every turn.

_________________________________

Vote NO on taxes, levies, and incumbents.
Every day I learn I know less than I thought I did.
Every time something is made idiot proof. The world produces a better idiot!
Maturity like wisdom seldom arrives without age. Far too often though age arrives without either.
ImageImage Image
Politicians are like diapers. They need changed often. For the same reason.
A fine is tax you pay for doing wrong. A tax is fine you pay for doing well.
Second place makes you first loser.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#11  Unread postPosted: October 2nd, 2017, 8:09 pm

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I’m following along. Will need to do this when I put the FI engine in.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#12  Unread postPosted: October 3rd, 2017, 4:41 am

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I thought I had pictures of this from when I did this to my 1100 because I used a line from the 84 donor bike that I got, but I cannot find them. I have the line floating around in my shop somewhere and I am in the process of changing the head gaskets on the 87, so I can take a bunch of pictures if you still need them.

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Brian
Retired US Navy 1983-2003
If you aren't having fun doing it, find something else to do.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#13  Unread postPosted: October 3rd, 2017, 6:52 am

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'78 GL1000

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If it's not too much of a hassle, it would be much appreciated. It really is tough to find photos of the clutch pipe. Some show glimpses, but I can't find any intentionally showing routing of that pipe. It would also put them in a thread labeled as such for future reference.

And yes V, I am still contemplating the nickel copper route.

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"Time on a motorcycle is unlike time spent anywhere else. There are moments lost in the landscape, seconds devoted solely to balance, and long stretches spent spiraling inward.”

― Barbara Schoichet


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#14  Unread postPosted: October 3rd, 2017, 7:13 am

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Don’t think I would hesitate using copper tubing and single flare. Doubt there is much pressure on the line like brakes have.

_________________________________

PLEASE! Use your Gallery album for saving pictures instead of using attachments or picture sharing sites, especially technical reference pics. This will make sure your images will ALWAYS be in your post and the discussion thread will make sense!
Go HERE and learn how to use the Gallery.


Image Image ImageClick to order CGW Stuff

If you know someone can embroider our 3" patch, let me know!
My photo gallery
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How to add your bike photo to the rotating banner and our Banner Rides Page.


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#15  Unread postPosted: October 3rd, 2017, 9:28 am

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I have several pictures that show parts of the metal line on the right side near upper frame rail
here's one
26370

You might find others in my album more useful.
When I replaced the clutch line on mine I used one flex SS braided line from MC to SC

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25712
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