Clutch Pipe Routing - 1200 (Need a little help)

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desertrefugee

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I'm accumulating bits to complete the hydraulic clutch conversion on my 1000. I have everything I need - or thought I did. The clutch hose I sourced (a nice braided steel unit) is just that, the hose. On the 1200, it's the line from the master cylinder down to the "pipe" that completes the path back to the slave.

That's the part I need. If I had been smart, I would have just measured the run and sourced a hose for the entire path. But, I do kind of like the notion of a steel pipe to minimize "squishiness".

Here's my question: Does anyone have photos that show how that puppy routes back? As I recall, it traverses from left side to right side where it goes to the slave with a short length of integrated hose.

Not asking for special photos, but I cannot seem to find any that show the routing of this pipe. And I sure have looked.

Thanks.
 
I haven't actually looked on my 1200s but you can use the nickle copper tubing very easily and route it up under the faux tank to the neck. Stuff is great for being able to form it easily.
 
Yes it hose down to the left side and around the carbs and filter ..then crosses over to right side and back to clutch cover bout with bracket and hose from there I'm thinking....yah to bad you didn't get whole thing ...on a 1000 bike it's bit off as frames are different
 
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=196468#p196468:17zkbtt2 said:
joedrum » Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:29 pm[/url]":17zkbtt2]
...on a 1000 bike it's bit off as frames are different

I sorta knew there were some changes to the frame, but am hoping it's close enough to do the job.
 
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=196470#p196470:s8igok1h said:
slabghost » Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:43 pm[/url]":s8igok1h]
Use the nickle copper it'll be easy.

But, but, but...I'd have to spring for a brake tube flaring tool. I have an LP gas flarer, but not brake. Trying -without much success- to keep cost down on this project.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196464#p196464:6t07fchz said:
desertrefugee » Today, 4:01 pm[/url]":6t07fchz]
I'm accumulating bits to complete the hydraulic clutch conversion on my 1000. I have everything I need - or thought I did. The clutch hose I sourced (a nice braided steel unit) is just that, the hose. On the 1200, it's the line from the master cylinder down to the "pipe" that completes the path back to the slave.

That's the part I need. If I had been smart, I would have just measured the run and sourced a hose for the entire path. But, I do kind of like the notion of a steel pipe to minimize "squishiness".

Here's my question: Does anyone have photos that show how that puppy routes back? As I recall, it traverses from left side to right side where it goes to the slave with a short length of integrated hose.

Not asking for special photos, but I cannot seem to find any that show the routing of this pipe. And I sure have looked.

Thanks.

I replaced the clutch hydraulic hose on my '85 LTD and used a SS line all the way from the clutch MC. I kept the join where the hose transitions just in front of the air box. This made it easier to route the new line, and adjust for any misalignment with the banjo fittings at the MC and slave.

Since the SS line is actually a teflon line with a SS braid protective skin, there should be no "squishiness" in the system. It's the teflon line inside the SS braid that is the structural aspect of the line, and it resists flexing quite well. I wouldn't get too wrapped up with the notion of a steel pipe in the routing, it's not going to be long enough to make a significant difference.

Just a thought.

Cheers
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196475#p196475:1kzmazsg said:
desertrefugee » Mon Oct 02, 2017 9:41 pm[/url]":1kzmazsg]
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=196470#p196470:1kzmazsg said:
slabghost » Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:43 pm[/url]":1kzmazsg]
Use the nickle copper it'll be easy.

But, but, but...I'd have to spring for a brake tube flaring tool. I have an LP gas flarer, but not brake. Trying -without much success- to keep cost down on this project.
Get a 4-5 ft line already flared with metric fittings. Any extra you can coil or bend out of view. No need to buy a flaring tool. Primary issue will be clamping the flex line at the fitting so it doesn't bend the hard line every turn.
 
I thought I had pictures of this from when I did this to my 1100 because I used a line from the 84 donor bike that I got, but I cannot find them. I have the line floating around in my shop somewhere and I am in the process of changing the head gaskets on the 87, so I can take a bunch of pictures if you still need them.
 
If it's not too much of a hassle, it would be much appreciated. It really is tough to find photos of the clutch pipe. Some show glimpses, but I can't find any intentionally showing routing of that pipe. It would also put them in a thread labeled as such for future reference.

And yes V, I am still contemplating the nickel copper route.
 
Thanks Mike - that photo actually gives me solid guidance on routing the OEM pipe (that I got for free, Vince!) If I don't kink it putting it in, it'll be a miracle.

Anyway, as I was ready to launch into this installation, I realized that the banjo bolt I was going to use for the slave cylinder ain't gonna work. Too long. It's for a master cylinder. Bummer. Took a ride over to my nearby parts source and got no joy.

But! Tomorrow morning, I'm taking my first trip of the fall season here. If he doesn't have one, I give up.

The Mother of All Motorcycle Salvage Yards
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=51928&p=555561&hilit=mother#p555561
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196594#p196594:1so4v7d1 said:
desertrefugee » Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:16 pm[/url]":1so4v7d1]
Thanks Mike - that photo actually gives me solid guidance on routing the OEM pipe (that I got for free, Vince!) If I don't kink it putting it in, it'll be a miracle.

Anyway, as I was ready to launch into this installation, I realized that the banjo bolt I was going to use for the slave cylinder ain't gonna work. Too long. It's for a master cylinder. Bummer. Took a ride over to my nearby parts source and got no joy.

But! Tomorrow morning, I'm taking my first trip of the fall season here. If he doesn't have one, I give up.

The Mother of All Motorcycle Salvage Yards
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=51928&p=555561&hilit=mother#p555561
Sweet! You can probably find a new banjo bolt at just about any auto parts store.
 
Sorry this has taken so long to get the pictures. SWMBO wanted to go to Myrtel Beach, and I hate the beach!

The flexible line from the clutch lever goes to this fitting that attaches to a bracket on the frame under the coils...


Obviously the 1000 frame will not have the bracket on the frame, andf neither did my 1100, so I just zip tied it.


From there it wraps around the air box and then down the side of the gas tank...




Then to the back of the engine and the clutch.

 
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