Carburator Bowl level???

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gervais

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Nov 14, 2017
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Location
Riviere-Bleue,Quebec
hi all,
well my carburators are cleaned and new jets installed.
i am checking my Haynes manual and it is not clear one bit how too adjust the bowl level in the carb?

i cannot find a single clear picture of "where" they are taking the level,

would you have one somewhere ?

3 of my idle jet were obstructed at over 50% when you consider the size of their hole,,,thats a lot and explain why the choke was needed too idle the engine.

so too reinstall my intake now i need to adjust/check the bowl level.

can you gave me a hand?
thanks
Gef
 
If the floats have not been moved to another carb or adjusted it is likely good as is. Checking the float levels on these means standing the rack on edge so the floats do not compress the detent pins on the needles but seat the needles.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198090#p198090:2h2wagob said:
mjanderson » 23 minutes ago[/url]":2h2wagob]
Check out this tutorial, esp. page 13. I know it's for 1100 carbs but perhaps 1200's are similar.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/images/misc/GL1100carboverhaul.pdf

Mike


well the 1100 carbs are quite different and i suspect smaller ,they are not the same.
i will continue my research,
i have no idea how they were before i baught this GW,
my carb were so dirty,full of additive deposit that clogue the main jet,,i have some pictures.

it convinced me again too add some 2 cycles oil in the gaz tank as i have done for the past 40 years and never add any bugs with my carbs.
i will do it at this one also
Gef
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198101#p198101:o2buig1j said:
brianinpa » Today, 6:31 am[/url]":eek:2buig1j]
The Haynes manual leaves out an important aspect... the tool required to properly measure the float...

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=10268&image_id=30980

The tool is similar to a depth gage. It rests on the surface that the cover mounts to and the gage plunges down against the float, and that is how the distance is read. Without the tool, it is ver difficult to get exact.


the float bowl seems to go "inside " the carburator body,,
man i would like to have a picture from the side of the carburator so i would see the depth pf the bowl ,,

i am used to adjust on mukuni but this one is different

gervais
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198090#p198090:2mdqt0wp said:
mjanderson » Yesterday, 9:24 pm[/url]":2mdqt0wp]
Check out this tutorial, esp. page 13. I know it's for 1100 carbs but perhaps 1200's are similar.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/images/misc/GL1100carboverhaul.pdf

Mike

Page 13 shows the proper method of setting the floats, don't remember if the 15.5 mm is the dimension for GL1200. The 1200 dimension should be 7.5mm.
 
well
finally i used Google translator and it helped me.
i could understand now,

you push the bowl just enough that the little spring inside the "pointeau" as we say in french BUT in english translate by trottle and it has nothing to do with a trottle :) ,,,you know it is attached at the little plate on the bowl and it closed the gaz to come inside the carburator,,,,,,,ahhh .

finally i took a coffee and came back and found a way and it worked,you have to incline the carburator on their side so there is "no force" that will force the bowl to come down inside the carburator so this way (when it is incline) the bowl can be pushed by one finger and on the other hand you have a tool too mesure the 7.5 mm ,,,
it worked but what a job

i found NO video at all on the 1200 ,some about the 1000 and the 1100 but they are not using the same carbs.

i am using some parts in my SUMO KIT i baught like orings,flat washers,,,

i am beginning too see the LED at the end of the tunnel as we say here!!!!!! :)

Gef
 
well i am trying too upload some picture now
 

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198116#p198116:1s7mrj4c said:
dan filipi » Today, 6:32 pm[/url]":1s7mrj4c]
Looks like that measuring tool works good :good:


yes it looks great,
thats my tool that i have been using for years on Mukuni so i tried it here and it seems ok.
this a rule that i have since my years in mecanic schools here .

tomorrow i will reinstall the intake and start it ,after i will dismantle the front engine cover to look for the cam strap and order set
of Gates,,they seems to be the choice of the majority and i dont recall their parts number.

after the air compressor is too check,dismantle all the wheels,,,

my fun ,,winter arriving

gervais
 
Cant hurt to fill them up on the bench just to be sure it is a one time deal, about 5 feet of gas line with a funnel on the end simulates fuel pump pressure, let it sit a few hours.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198131#p198131:18rivj9v said:
zman » Today, 12:55 pm[/url]":18rivj9v]
Cant hurt to fill them up on the bench just to be sure it is a one time deal, about 5 feet of gas line with a funnel on the end simulates fuel pump pressure, let it sit a few hours.

excellent idea jeff
thanks i will try

Gef
 
Great news,
it runs no1
of course i must "balanced " them but the engine is responding good and no gaz spill,,,no over flow of gaz.

now i am checking for the "charge circuit".i have 15 vdc idle which is a lot,
i am suspecting a bad regulator,i know that the present alternator is new Honda but i wonder if the regulator is fryed on one diode,,
i am checking on ebay for one.

if i add that dam crank pulley i would have fit right away a n alternator

gef
 
If the charge at idle is 15v, could be the "sense" wire is not telling the regulator. The black 'sense' wire goes to the regulator, but not directly from the battery. There are several connections before the wire gets to the regulator. Check voltage at battery, versus voltage on the sense wire, just before it gets to the regulator. If sense wire shows low voltage the regulator will increase voltage. Low voltage could be caused by weak connections along the way. Check below links for lots of information about how the system works.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12677
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12703
 
well
i continue my work on my GW,i dont undrstand how Honda did this,,,joining 2 cables of different gauges and reduce them at one #12,,check the pictures.
you will see also my socket on the relay start that have become so hot that it melted the plastic.
you will see my home made table too :)

i have found many junction,many grounds,,and these 2 red one that are coming from the regulator are joint to one #12 gauge i think to the start relay,and 2 others red joint and also going at the starter relay which by the way is a double action relay as we say here.

gervais
 

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