Clutch Slipping when it warms up

Hi I have a issue with my clutch slipping when my bike warms up to the point it quits pulling all together. I am using Mobile 1 10w40 right now it did this beforeand I thought it might be the clutch plates but after a little riding and an oil change it started working fine now it has started again after not riding for a couple months just curious if this is a common issue since I am new to Goldwings. Thanks Ron

I'm told it's common with the hydraulic clutches. However I've not had mine hot enough yet for it to happen. Might be time to change the brake fluid on the clutch side and bleed it good.

Mobil 1 MX4T is designed for sport bikes. Most of these bikes have multi-cylinder/multi-valve engines and use a common sump, which means the engine oil lubricates the engine, transmission and wet clutch. So unlike Mobil 1 for cars, Mobil 1 MX4T has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch slippage.

So which do you have?

Hi Ron, it might be a problem but did you try to use a different brand of oil, just make sure it's made for motorcycles. I use Rotella T6 5W-40 in my bikes with no problems.

I will have to check for sure but I do know it's mc oil I tried Lucas 20w50 mc to start but it was too thick of oil so change to mobile 1 I read itwasa good oil to use and it did until I let it sit for 2 months due to weather and time but trying to get it ready to ride again

try a few ounces of synthetic automatic transmission fluid in the oil. The extra cleaners may clear the problem.

Thanks will give the transmission fluid a try I did order the clutch plates just in case

Clutch plates are going to be quite a job. You will want to exhaust all other possibilities before you dive into that clutch. I would begin with a good fluid drain and flush. I would then top off with fresh fluid and give it a good bleed. If you still have an issue I would rebuild the master and slave cylinders. If all that fails and you determine that the issue does not lay within the type of oil that is currently or WAS being used in the bike, you can then tear into that clutch. My guess though is that the issue lies within the hydraulic system or the engine oil being used.

How many miles are on that bike? Does the clutch only slip when you shift? Have you tried shifting without using the clutch lever? Mine was having issues with the clutch as well. When I shift clutch-less it grabs hard but it slips a little when I use the clutch lever. Turns out all I needed to do was flush and refill the hydraulic system. The slave cylinder was not returning quick enough for the plates to grab.

I hope your issue is as easy to fix as mine was.

I ran Mobil 1 to see if it would make the bike shift better and quieter. It did shift better but I pulled it because people hear said that it would make my clutch slip. I did not want to take the chance so I pulled it after 1500 miles. The trans now is notchy like before but the clutch is solid.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139625#p139625:3cf41zh7 said:

tuna » 9 minutes ago[/url]":3cf41zh7]
I ran Mobil 1 to see if it would make the bike shift better and quieter. It did shift better but I pulled it because people hear said that it would make my clutch slip. I did not want to take the chance so I pulled it after 1500 miles. The trans now is notchy like before but the clutch is solid.

Click to expand...

My experiences with various oils have been similar.
It's a trade off. I like a solid predictable clutch, Shell Rotella T seems best to me so far.

I am not completely sure on actual miles as the speedo cable was broken i have since replaced it and have maybe put @ 200 miles one the Mobile 1 oil it quit slipping after about 20 miles of periodic riding then i took a ride of @ 120 miles with no issues but i let it sit for a couple weeks and now that I think of it the hydraulics did go dry from sitting i refilled and bled it out have good clutch handle now but i may need to drain it completely and start fresh along with New Oil what is the best weight and brand to use and is synthetic an issue? Also it does seem to slip worse when shifting through the gears. I have not tried hard shifting it at all.
Thanks Ron

The clutch system takes DOT4 brake fluid, same as the lines. Synthetic should not matter on the brake fluid. Just get a good name brand. I use Valvoline synthetic in my brake and clutch system.

I guess what im trying to figure out if the clutch is slipping constantly or only right after a shift. If its only on a shift its probably gonna be in that fluid or one of the cylinders, master or slave. Next time you ride it get on the throttle a little and see if the clutch feels solid (no shifting, just riding). Try to run the bike thru the rpm range in 2nd or 3rd gear and feel for slippage.

Then try shifting. You should be able to determine if the issue is on the actual shift or if the clutch is just slipping. If there is any air in the line at all, or if the internal parts of the master/Slave cylinder are gummed up it will slow the return of the clutch after a shift, giving the feeling of worn plates. Clutchless shifting an also help you determine if the issue lies in the hydraulic system.

Personally I would pump a small bottle of Dot4 through the system. Then top it off and bleed it.

It is slipping to the point it quits pulling all together in any gear . And when I start out riding I can feel slippage when throttling up going through gears using clutch. I have not tried hard shifting without engaging clutch. I will run a new bottle of dot 4 thru it again but as far as my question concerning synthetic I'm asking about the oil

I think you should just take the slave and the master apart and make sure every thing is clean and working well. When I took my slave apart, it was full of crap and needed a good cleaning plus I changed all the seals. One more thing, make sure the master is clean and the return hole is clear.

Synthetic oil I've read a few times doesn't play nice in these wings. I've never tried it myself so can't say yes or no. I would think though as long as it's rated for motorcycles with wet clutches at least the clutch should be okay. If you've gone back to standard oil the ATF you add to it need not be synthetic or even a specific brand. The cleaners in it should help.
+1 on the suggestion to be sure the tiny return hole in the master cylinder is clear.

Opinions are like rectums, every body has one & they all SMELL. Dan has it right in my experience, Diesel oil seems the best bang for the buck. Synthetic may make a difference in EXTREME conditions, racing comes to mind. Like brake fluid, only real difference is the temperature it vaporizes or boils. Who among us has gotten our brake fluid that hot??? For years when dot 4 was really expensive, I used dot 3 with NO problems, & never boiled my fluid a single time. Now 3 & 4 are the same in all name brands, & all off ones I've seen. You decide!!!

Sorry forgot, slave is probably the major problem, but do clutch master at the same time, & you'll probably solve the problem.

thanks alot for all the info will let you all know how it works or if its something else

"but as far as my question concerning synthetic I'm asking about the oil"

I've run a synthetic blend in my '86, since '89. It's Spectro Golden 4 10w-40 or 15w-50, 50k+ miles

Used Mobil synthetic back when i was working & had a little money, never noticed any clutch slippage, went longer between oil changes. :wave: