Shell Rotella Synthetic

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dan filipi

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Of these 2, are either or both okay to use with wet clutch?

What is the difference of the 2 besides the label? One is $19 where the other is $25.

(Both pics are in my gallery to see better the label> gallery/album.php?album_id=10345 )

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This doesn't exactly apply to Shell Rotella but it is about synthetic oils used in wet clutches, I found this on a sportbike forum:

" posted this in a CBR forum under a thread in which we were discussing the pros and cons of Honda GN4 (regular oil), and Honda HP4 (semi-synth oil). I have been looking a long time for an answer to the question as to whether synthetic oil really DOES make wet clutches slip, and I came across some info that seems to answer that question. I am by no means an oil expert, and although I did take a whole hell of a lot of chemistry classes in university, I am not passing this info off as the ulitmate truth. It simply makes sense to me, so I thought I would share it:



OK folks, I thought I would let you all in on what I have just learned. I am sure you are all aware of the synthetic oil yes/no? debate for motorcycles with wet clutches. It has been said that synthetic oils make wet clutches slip. Well, that is not exactly true according to what I have read. APPARENTLY, it is not the synthetic oil that is bad for your wet clutch, but rather an additive found in many (not all) synthetic oils called MOLYBDENUM that makes wet clutches slip. Apparently this "moly" (as it is advertized on the side of the bottles of most oils that contain it) is one of the slipperiest substances known to man (so they say), and one of its main attributes is that it sticks to your engine parts and provides durable lubrication. Well, apparently this "moly" also sticks to your clutch plates and can eventually make your wet clutch slip (once enough of the stuff has stuck on them). This damage is irreversable, and the only option once it has happened is to change your clutch plates. Like I said, "moly" is not in all synthetic oils, only most, so check the bottle before you put synthetic oils into your wet clutch crankcase. I came across a list of oils (regular, and synthetic) that had a list of the molybdenum content in PPM (parts per million). If anybody is interested, I will try and track it down again and post it, or a link to it. Some of the syth oils contain ZERO PPM of moly, and are clearly the way to go in lubing your motorcycle's engine and tranny, without f-ing up your wet clutch.
By the way, Honda HP4 DOES contain "moly", and Honda is now (supposedly) recommending that it not be used in their crankcases with wet clutches. Honda is also (supposedly) developing a new version of their semi-syth oil that will contain ZERO molybdenum, and will therefore be suitable for use in wet clutch crankcases. I have four quarts of HP4 that I almost put into my 929. Luckily, on the very day I was about to do my oil change (HP4 for the first time), I ran across this info on the internet. I am not saying that this the gospel truth (if there ever was an oxymoron, that was just it), but it sure as hell makes sense to me, and you may want to think about it, or research it yourself, before you put an oil with molybdenum into your wet clutch crankcase.

If ANYBODY comes across any more info on this subject, I would really appreciate it if they would post it here (better yet, start another thread on it). Obviously, I will do the same.

Rossco.

OK, I found the list. Here it is:

This info is in the latest motorcycle consumer news, part 3 of a oil test, numbers to the right are molybdenum in parts per million

Amsoil (auto).............0
Bardahl blend.............0
Belray EXL,EXP semi, EXS..0
Castrol Actevo............0
Castrol GTX (auto)........59
Castrol motorcycle........129
Castrol synthetic blend...114
ELF.......................20
Honda GN4.................0
Honda HP4.................670
Klotz tech................0
Maxum 4...................0
Mobil 1 tri synthetic(auto)..0
Mobil 1 MX4T..............0
Motul 300V sport..........0
Motul 3100 blend..........0
Motul 5100................0
Motul E Tech..............0
Pennzoil motorcycle.......0
PJ1 silverfire............0
Redline...................872
Shell Rotella T...........0
Silkolene Racelube........0
Silkolene PRO4 Syn base...0
Golden Spectro 4..........0
Golden Spectro 4 blend....0
Suzuki break-in oil.......517
Torco MPZ 100%............626
Torco MPZ t-4r blend......736

As you can see, if this info about molybdenum making wet clutches slip is right, HP4 is actually one of the worst oils you can put into your wet clutch crankcase."

Sorry this post was so long, but I thought this was important enough to all of us to suffer through such a long post. Ooops, I just made it longer. Ooops again. Ooops.......DOH!!
 
Possibly demand? 10W vs 15W? The JASO rating is what I always look for, that's what the manual calls for.
This info; Castrol motorcycle........129
Castrol synthetic blend...114
doesn't tell you what version it is, they make several, some for V-twins that have the clutch separate and it's a motor oil not intended for clutch application.
I've been using the Castrol that has the JASO rating, no issues
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193177#p193177:3jyxdpai said:
julimike54 » 33 minutes ago[/url]":3jyxdpai]
Possibly demand? 10W vs 15W? The JASO rating is what I always look for, that's what the manual calls for.
This info; Castrol motorcycle........129
Castrol synthetic blend...114
doesn't tell you what version it is, they make several, some for V-twins that have the clutch separate and it's a motor oil not intended for clutch application.
I've been using the Castrol that has the JASO rating, no issues
They are both 15/40.
 
Both bottles pictured contain the same oil. Different prices in different stores? I do know that suppliers are pricing oils differently by weights to retailers now.
 
As long as it's NOT supposed to reduce friction, & increase your fuel mileage, :read: i've been told, & read it's fine. :heat:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193186#p193186:3sry787x said:
slabghost » Today, 4:20 am[/url]":3sry787x]
Both bottles pictured contain the same oil. Different prices in different stores? I do know that suppliers are pricing oils differently by weights to retailers now.
Crazy thing is, same store. These are on the shelf right next to each other.
 
They must be really proud of their new bottle design then because the contents are the same. The T5 is their designation of a synthetic oil blended with dino oil. I think the T6 is all synthetic.
 
I guess the bottom line of this thread is, it can really pay off to take a minute and comparison shop! Even right next to it on the shelf, $6 difference.
And at Walmart they have full syn for $21.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193197#p193197:19np59ww said:
dan filipi » 44 minutes ago[/url]":19np59ww]
I guess the bottom line of this thread is, it can really pay off to take a minute and comparison shop! Even right next to it on the shelf, $6 difference.
And at Walmart they have full syn for $21.

Have to shop around. Works out to approx $5.55 USD ($7.00 CDN) a litre. Good price for full synthetic.

Cheers
 
I used the T6 during this last oil change and my trip to Kingston, NY. No real noticeable difference that I could tell. Same shifting, same idle, no smoother or rougher that the 10W40 I used last time. It is my understanding the big difference is in the longevity of the oil verses regular oil. In motorcycles, the transmission apparently really does a number on the engine oil and T6 is supposed to hold up much better. I'll know soon enough.
 
This will always be a topic for discussion. Full/true synthetic is a manufactured oil, molecules are all the same size whereas mineral oil molecules are varying sizes. Using synthetic in a close tolerance engine such as the GW makes sense in this regard.

The key issue regarding oil is cleanliness. Over time the oil does not break down as much as it gets dirty from the byproducts of combustion, air intake quality and moving parts, and the additives wear out. Removing these impurities and renewing the additives by changing your oil on a regular basis is probably more important than the mineral/synthetic issue.

Synthetic oils are generally better at heat reduction than mineral oils. Another good reason to use synthetic in these high revving GW engines.

Make sure the oil is Jaso MA/MA2 certified as well.

Then you get the price point for synthetic versus mineral. When you can purchase synthetic for the same price as mineral oil, my choice will always be synthetic. Keeping a lookout for synthetic oil sales is another reason to browse the weekly fliers. I tend to have two 5 litre jugs of the Rotella T6 on hand at all times.

Here is a list of JASO Engine Oils: https://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

Here is another thread from a dirtbike forum that is interesting as well. https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/do ... ke.146867/

The bottom line from what I have read is use the oil that you want, especially if it works in your bike and is at a cost you are willing to pay for it. Keep the oil clean and have fun riding.

Cheers
 
I tried Rotella T6 synthetic in the mighty ST 1300, the shifting was really bad. I switched to Castrol synthetic m/c oil and the shifting improved big time. I had amsoil in my 1200 wing and mobile 1 for bikes in my 1500 wing, both sounded like the lifters were not pumping up so I went back to Castrol bike oil so rotella is out for the mighty ST 1300, amsoil, mobil 1, and synthetic oil in general is out for the wings. I tried rotella conventional oil in the 1500 wing and at oil change time (5000 miles ) it poured out the drain like water
 
So far my euro spec full synthetic diesel oil in Val is performing well. :yes:
 
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