83 aspencade no blinkers

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imgeno2

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ludlow / ma
I am reviving this 83 aspencade and have no blinkers. The radio system looks rusty like it got wet, so I'm trying to eliminate it. I seem to have all the wiring, though it's out of the bike. I'm trying to use only the harness that goes to the lights.The wires to the blinkers are good, they have continuity. I tried to test the switch with a meter on the 9 pin connector and found that left would shut down voltage to the orange/white wire pin. The right position would shut down voltage to the light blue/white wire pin. Is there a way to test the flasher? I don't know the logic of this and could use some help.
Thanks, Gene
 
We have wire diagrams in the gallery will help.

Orange/white at the flasher is supplied + battery power with the key on.
The "blinking" action happens when there is a load on the gray wire leaving the blinker relay.
The green at the relay is ground.

So....when you select left turn signal at the switch, power is fed to the signal lights on the orange wire, and since now that there is a load from the bulbs on the gray wire coming from the blinker relay, the relay does its thing to blink on and off.
That is the logic of the circuit.

If you jumper the orange/white to the gray at the relay, left signals should go on steady with signal switch on left, or right signals with the switch to the right.
 
First step would be to see if you have power on the green/white at the relay. If so then jumper to the gray. If bulbs come on then blinker relay is probably bad.
You should verify your wire colors using the schematic for your bike.
 
I have tried to bypass the flasher only to get the same result. That is, with the power on, both directional lights are on. When I use the switch, each light goes off. They seem to be working in reverse by being on all the time and shutting off when called for flashing. I'm inclined to think that it may be one of two other things. Could it be either a bad switch? or the cancelling switch? Some of the bike came to me unassembled and I don't see a cancelling device. The manual says that it goes in the headlamp housing. What do you guys think? Thank you for being very helpful with my diagnostics.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174593#p174593:3ccgu57p said:
imgeno2 » 27 minutes ago[/url]":3ccgu57p]
I have tried to bypass the flasher only to get the same result. That is, with the power on, both directional lights are on. When I use the switch, each light goes off. They seem to be working in reverse by being on all the time and shutting off when called for flashing. I'm inclined to think that it may be one of two other things. Could it be either a bad switch? or the cancelling switch? Some of the bike came to me unassembled and I don't see a cancelling device. The manual says that it goes in the headlamp housing. What do you guys think? Thank you for being very helpful with my diagnostics.

I'm not saying this definitely is your issue, but I had a similar problem. When I would activate the turn signal switch it would kill the power to the front signals that normally stay on like parking lights (dual element bulbs), After a lot of troubleshooting and head scratching my issue was the signal switch itself. Initially I cleaned it up (copper contacts) and it still did the same thing so I replaced the switch and "wa la" it worked as it should.
 
seems like that is great idea....except 83s have the self cancelling signsls ...this is lump in right there at switch...might be someting there causing the problem......had an 82 all that stuff worked great and an 83 it never got to work right but the signals did blink fine....
 
[url=https://forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=174600#p174600:qc9qaxze said:
imgeno2 » Today, 7:56 am[/url]":qc9qaxze]
Any way to check the signal switch? I'd like to try to bypass it and see what happens.


Yes,
Like Dan suggested, look carefully at the wiring diagram and determine the correct wire color code for each side. Once this is established you have at least a couple of troubleshooting options. One involves an meter to ohm from the connector splice thru the switch. Another quick check is just to check light circuits themselves "downstream" of the switch and temporarily apply 12 VDC to the circuit at the butt connector splices it won't flash but it should illuminate. For example: make two wire lead from the battery, take conectors apart, connect ground to ground and touch power (hot) to color feeding each sides lighting. From this same butt connector splice you can check continuity thru the handlebar switch per side and wiring color.

Hopefully this come across for you, some things are difficult to explain online in posts.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174509#p174509:1bwqurga said:
imgeno2 » Sun Jun 05, 2016 6:54 pm[/url]":1bwqurga]
Is there a way to test the flasher?

Sure is...replace it with a new one, or a used one you know works. Assuming from what I read, the bright(er) light on the signals are ON all the time, and go OFF when you hit the turn sig switch, I'd be inclined to think the flasher relay is stuck....or burnt. You might also still have a ground wire somewhere not properly grounded.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174618#p174618:uipsdbzz said:
AApple » Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:58 am[/url]":uipsdbzz]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174509#p174509:uipsdbzz said:
imgeno2 » Sun Jun 05, 2016 6:54 pm[/url]":uipsdbzz]
Is there a way to test the flasher?

Use a headlight bulb (55w < as it is close enough to two 21w flasher bulbs) and hook one terminal to earth and the other to the L terminal on the flasher can/ relay. Complete the circuit by hooking the positive to the X terminal.
 
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