honda

went to honda dealer...just down the road....ask about brakes for the rear wheel ...quoted 24.95$ ..thought that was ok price.....told them id be back later and order ...as they were not in stock and order needed pte pay....camrback later....turns out 24.95$ is for one pad only ....sheesh ...who prices things like that...seems two pads plus tax was over 60$......well needless to say no sale....my my :shock:

They don't call them stealers for because the buildings are made of metal...

Yep stealerships are known for price mark ups. If memory serves I spent about $25 on a set of brake pads that replaced both sides in front 4 pads and the rear another two. Total of 6 brake pads.

yep well i beat honda price by over 20$ ....and the pads look great ...im happy and its done

Dealers no matter what the brand, historically are much higher on parts so it's not just Honda. New tail lights for the burb were $250 each. I found OEM online for $125 each.
Door regulator for my sisters Saturn, $285 dealer, aftermarket $125.
Many of the manufacturers make very little $ on the new car sales, they make it up on parts.

The last time I bought pads was from D2Moto, an Ebay seller. $17 or so for six pads....shipped! Then, on the Adventure rider forum there's a free parts Karma thread where people give away parts they no longer have a use for. A guy posted a picture of brake pads that looked a lot like wing (83) pads...I checked the numbers and sure enough, I got a set of six pads for $10 shipping...and these were the superbike high performance pads.

mine were ebc double h super bike and race formular ....package looks rather old.....pads looked great and thick

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172530#p172530:27cmdqo4 said:

joedrum » Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:15 pm[/url]":27cmdqo4]
mine were ebc double h super bike and race formular ....package looks rather old.....pads looked great and thick

Click to expand...

Yep...that's the ones I got. My rear rotor is scored pretty bad and it eats brakes. I figured since pads are so cheap I'd just run it as-is. I'm going to use the superbike pads on the rear and use the regular ones on the fronts. When I put the HH pads on the rear, the old pads were getting a bit thin...they were on the bike about 8000 miles. Hopefully the new pads will do better than that. Seems like the new pads make the bike stop a bit better...do yours seem that way too?

i havnt done much riding on them yet ...it will take a bit to seat in some...

This brings up a question, turning the rotors. The rule of thumb is always turn the rotors when replacing brake pads. Now I realize for most finding someone to turn these rotors isn't easy, also if they are worn below minimums they can't be turned. However worn brake rotors with new pads normally make for poor braking.

id say my rear rotor is dam near used up....but not scored ....just wore to death....locks tire up easy...so i need no mote grip in rear.....front different story...need to work on front brakes also ....next deal id say....

Think that heat is the main concern about disk thickness factor to a point, easier to warp when serious heat comes into the equation. :read: A serious problem, :yes: more common in lighter race type bikes, :headscratch: or any serious high speed hard braking heavy bike. :whistling:

a bike aint much challenge to disc brake set up ....

Thought that's what i said :smilie_happy: