rob.lafady
Well-known member
Welcome from Washington state! That truelly is a nice looking wing!
MY GL1100 Project
- Thread starter gmartin
- Start date
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phavas
Active member
Welcome from France. Don't forget to check the double throwback switch and top up the Frammis.
I just try not to think about the "double throwback switch".[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142965#p142965:2h6ait8j said:
phavas
Active member
Many people ignore it, along with diluted air in the tires, with potentially disastrous consequences. But if you're low on Frammis when the switch sticks it could cause a brown-out in a 12 mile radius.
slabghost
Well-known member
Tie in the fram combobulater inline with the flux capacitor and all will be fine. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=143013#p143013:2cvk9f46 said:
Welcome from South East Florida..
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gmartin
Well-known member
Finaaly got some time off work that other things weren't screaming for attention on and spent yesterday working on the bike. Here is what I got accomplished as we had another 5" of snow falling outside:
Repaired rear lighting to the Vetter trunk-Now it is all lit up like a Chircstmas tree. :BigGrin:
Replace the timing belts. Someone had already put on Gates belts in the past, but there was nothing marked saying when.
Checked water pump.
Replaced thermostat. Ran bike trhough several heat cycles and watched the temp gauge and fan switch operation. All looked good.
Replaced the radiator cap also.
Set the valve clearances. Som,e were way loose, a couple were too tight. Now she sounds quieter, motorwise.
Synced the carbs. That eliminated a ton of rough idle and mini backfires. Over the past few weeks I have been leeting it run with a can of Seafoam in the gas. The carbs were definitely doing better and now with them synced they doing really well.
Replaced the spark plugs.
Checked the air filter-looked like new.
Checked brake fluid, pads and lines. All look good.
As I took areas apart for access that are not normally seen, I washed and waxed those details while they were available.
Still to do:
Replace the final drive lube. I have a small leak at a seall. Going to try Randaak's tip and use Lucas Hub Oil in it.
Want to drain some oil and put some Seafoam in it before a total change. (Oil was new when I got it. Just don't know what viscosity they used. It acts like they used 20-50)
After the above, I will know what the starter needs. It makes a terrible noise is cold weather, before engaging to start.
Anyway it was a great day! Alot accomplished and can't wait for the weather to break to get it on the road.
Thanks to this forum, everything I did was very easy!
Repaired rear lighting to the Vetter trunk-Now it is all lit up like a Chircstmas tree. :BigGrin:
Replace the timing belts. Someone had already put on Gates belts in the past, but there was nothing marked saying when.
Checked water pump.
Replaced thermostat. Ran bike trhough several heat cycles and watched the temp gauge and fan switch operation. All looked good.
Replaced the radiator cap also.
Set the valve clearances. Som,e were way loose, a couple were too tight. Now she sounds quieter, motorwise.
Synced the carbs. That eliminated a ton of rough idle and mini backfires. Over the past few weeks I have been leeting it run with a can of Seafoam in the gas. The carbs were definitely doing better and now with them synced they doing really well.
Replaced the spark plugs.
Checked the air filter-looked like new.
Checked brake fluid, pads and lines. All look good.
As I took areas apart for access that are not normally seen, I washed and waxed those details while they were available.
Still to do:
Replace the final drive lube. I have a small leak at a seall. Going to try Randaak's tip and use Lucas Hub Oil in it.
Want to drain some oil and put some Seafoam in it before a total change. (Oil was new when I got it. Just don't know what viscosity they used. It acts like they used 20-50)
After the above, I will know what the starter needs. It makes a terrible noise is cold weather, before engaging to start.
Anyway it was a great day! Alot accomplished and can't wait for the weather to break to get it on the road.
Thanks to this forum, everything I did was very easy!
replace seafoam in oil with aft in oil its much better than seafoam ...its not near as dangerous to lubrication ...in my opinion atf cleans and is oil based ...just use about 1/2 quart and rest oil 15- 40 sounds great with no additives that will screw with clutch like most car oil has ...
phavas
Active member
And the Frammis level in the double throw-back switch?
By now you must know that the noise in the starter is the sprague clutch. Usually the best cure is engine out and disassemble lubricate or replace rollers and pistons and springs. The bolt holding it on is torqued down to 65 Ft Lbs so it's kind of a beatch to get off. I read somewhere about drilling a hole in the crankcase through which you could squirt WD40
into the spring holes but I haven't tried it.
Cheers,
Zaphod
By now you must know that the noise in the starter is the sprague clutch. Usually the best cure is engine out and disassemble lubricate or replace rollers and pistons and springs. The bolt holding it on is torqued down to 65 Ft Lbs so it's kind of a beatch to get off. I read somewhere about drilling a hole in the crankcase through which you could squirt WD40
into the spring holes but I haven't tried it.
Cheers,
Zaphod
Sounds like she's ready to hit the road. :Egyptian: It'll run better and better as you put some miles on it with the sea foam in the gas.
My starter does that sometimes when it is cold outside but under normal conditions it works OK.
How is the charging system? Tires?
Good work
Brian :good:
My starter does that sometimes when it is cold outside but under normal conditions it works OK.
How is the charging system? Tires?
Good work
Brian :good:
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gmartin
Well-known member
It had new Dunlops last year with plenty of tread for this year. Can't wait to finish up the storage gas and start fresh. Come on weather, warm up!
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gmartin
Well-known member
canuckxxxx, I checked the charging system and all is great! All connectors in great shape, used die-electric grease on them.
I started having some noise in the front of the engine. Diagnosed as the water pump. Finished replacing it a week or so back. I well lubed all o-rings upon reintallingthe new seals. I had some weeping out the weep hole after running it for a while and letting it sit. After driving it for a few days (14 miles to work and back), the weepage is down to a drop or two, (all antifreeze) with no oil drips or water in the oil. Hopefully a few more miles and heat cycles and it will stop.
It took a while to figure out the Frammis issue :smilie_happy:
These bikes are a blast to ride! What little I have gotten to ride it, due to the weather, I am loving it.
Thanks to all who participate in this forum. The information on here is very helpful!
I started having some noise in the front of the engine. Diagnosed as the water pump. Finished replacing it a week or so back. I well lubed all o-rings upon reintallingthe new seals. I had some weeping out the weep hole after running it for a while and letting it sit. After driving it for a few days (14 miles to work and back), the weepage is down to a drop or two, (all antifreeze) with no oil drips or water in the oil. Hopefully a few more miles and heat cycles and it will stop.
It took a while to figure out the Frammis issue :smilie_happy:
These bikes are a blast to ride! What little I have gotten to ride it, due to the weather, I am loving it.
Thanks to all who participate in this forum. The information on here is very helpful!
phavas
Active member
Frammis levels are a black art - like carb synching. The 1980 Frammis is fairly stable if you sneak up on it in the dark.
OP
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gmartin
Well-known member
UPDATE:
I love the wing!
But I am having issues with the final drive. Randaak's suggestion to use Lucas Hub oil didn't work and I ended up with a wheel/tire coated in lube after 100 miles.
Then I ordered a used unit off of Fleabay, installed it and the seals started leaking very badly after a week. Now I am gun shy of buying another junk final drive.
But I feel like I am losing riding time waiting on finding parts for the final drive.
I have every seal made for the unit except the 70X90X6 oil seal, which both drives are leaking from.
Has anyone found a replacement seal for these, other than the occasional NOS on Fleabay? Or should I just bite the bullet and get another used drive?
Pretty frustrated at this point.
I love the wing!
But I am having issues with the final drive. Randaak's suggestion to use Lucas Hub oil didn't work and I ended up with a wheel/tire coated in lube after 100 miles.
Then I ordered a used unit off of Fleabay, installed it and the seals started leaking very badly after a week. Now I am gun shy of buying another junk final drive.
But I feel like I am losing riding time waiting on finding parts for the final drive.
I have every seal made for the unit except the 70X90X6 oil seal, which both drives are leaking from.
Has anyone found a replacement seal for these, other than the occasional NOS on Fleabay? Or should I just bite the bullet and get another used drive?
Pretty frustrated at this point.
hmmmmmm something dont sound right ...one week and leaks again appear .. time to look at wheel also ...need pics to help much id say
slabghost
Well-known member
Sounds like the wheel isn't properly fitting the hub.
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gmartin
Well-known member
I'll check over everything on the wheel assembly this weekend. As I start disassembly.
I did finally find all seals to rebuild the final drive, including the elusive 91265-463-003 oil seal.
In fact, I found two of them and snatched them up as rare as they are. The two bearing companies I went to showed nothing being made with the size that would fit without modifying the drive.
I'll keep everyone updated.
Thanks for the ideas and help.
I did finally find all seals to rebuild the final drive, including the elusive 91265-463-003 oil seal.
In fact, I found two of them and snatched them up as rare as they are. The two bearing companies I went to showed nothing being made with the size that would fit without modifying the drive.
I'll keep everyone updated.
Thanks for the ideas and help.
opcorn:
Welcome from Florida.. Hope to see you on the road soon[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141367#p141367:2hhcdted said:gmartin » Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:52 pm[/url]":2hhcdted]
Hello everyone! Wanted to introduce myself and not just be a lurker.
I recently sold my Yamaha and was looking for something vintage to tinker with and take longer trips on.
I came across this 1980 GL1100, with 40,000 miles on it. It has some small issues, but run well.
I am not going for a frame off resto, but wanting to get it into nice shape (mechanically and visually)
Learning a bunch from this forum and appreciate it.
So far I have repaired the radio wiring and replaced all of the radio push buttons on the circuit board.
Next is to replace the timing belts, thermostat, radiator cap, and check the water pump.
Then I plan on adjusting the valves and syncing the carbs. Hoping to get everything done before the snow finally leaves.
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gmartin
Well-known member
Today, I finally got all of the final drive seals for a total rebuild, so I pulled the Fleabay final drive off of the bike then started disassembly. While the bike had been sitting on the center stand for the past couple of weeks, the lube had totally drained out of it. I thought that was weird, so I examined the case on the inside really close. I found a 3" long crack about 1/4" away from the large bearing race. From the outside the crack could barely be seen due to the paint.
It looks like at sometime someone may have installed the drive without a spacer assembly in it. I tried it (since it was cracked, what could it hurt) and installed the final drive without the spacer and as I started to tighten the axle, sure enough the crack opened up a little.
It's always something :Awe:
It looks like at sometime someone may have installed the drive without a spacer assembly in it. I tried it (since it was cracked, what could it hurt) and installed the final drive without the spacer and as I started to tighten the axle, sure enough the crack opened up a little.
It's always something :Awe:
