My build (another one)

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179882#p179882:1peoxv1j said:

ianstaley » Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:51 am[/url]":1peoxv1j]
Do you think I am becoming a bit anal in my old age LMAO. :smilie_happy: :BigGrin:

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Yes!! :smilie_happy:
But I am sure that you are not the only one.... :whistling:

You know the only reason I am like this is because my daughter wants the bike when I am gone, I aint dead yet but she has laid claim already to it. so I want it to last her a few years, as she is about as much use as an engineer as my little toe is to pick my nose. She hasn't got a cat in hells chance of doing what I am doing to this bike. :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

Once it's road ready it will probably last 30 years if the gas is kept fresh and the oil changed.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179897#p179897:33uassw1 said:

ianstaley » Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:52 am[/url]":33uassw1]
You know the only reason I am like this is because my daughter wants the bike when I am gone, I aint dead yet but she has laid claim already to it. so I want it to last her a few years, as she is about as much use as an engineer as my little toe is to pick my nose. She hasn't got a cat in hells chance of doing what I am doing to this bike. :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:

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No wonder you are being so fastidious Ian. :clapping:

thanks for the encouragement, I wish I was able to pull off a weekend rebuild (I know that that doesn't happen), but you see stuff on tv where a bike shop makes almost from scratch a cafe racer or custom, I know it isn't rely like that, but two years is a long time. Now I just heard that my VW Touareg needs a new alternator, £1200.00 to have a new one fitted. that's 1200 I could have used on my bike. Ah well never mind. I have always been a bit easy come easy go type of guy, but since retiring I wished I hadn't been more easy go. lol. Still we are all geniuses in hind sight. :swoon: :smilie_happy:

Is that an aftermarket one Ian? There would be riots in the street if I told a customer that a new alternator would be $2400 aud

No that is the price to replace the alternator in a V10 5.0l twin Turbo Diesel. It is watercooled and lies between the two banks of cylinders, both inlet manifolds need to be removed to gain access to the alternator. It is driven from the rear of the engine by the power steering pump I think. The only problem is the type I have is a Delsey type which are not made any more so I need to have a Hitachi fitted and there is a conversion kit for that too.

So the alternator is 190 Amps (needs it) so with luck the 3rd party Wa will pick up the bill and good for about 80% of the labour costs too. they will allow £60 an hour and VW here charge £90 I think.
But hey when done I can do 150 MPH again, if you would trust this Battleship at that speed. No problem on a straight road just don't ask it to turn corners. LOL.

I feel your pain. Unfortunately more and more vehicles are manufactured where it now takes longer to do a repair than what it did to build the vehicle. :head bang:
It amazing how many jobs now you think maybe it easier to pull the whole engine to change the water pump...etc.. :rtfm:

Hi all, just a bit further down the line, today we talk Cylinder heads. Right so I have got the heads off, I did squirt in some stuff called ambersil in through the plug hole. left t for a while and eventually got the heads off after a big struggle.

So as it happens I bought a pair of heads when I went and bought some other stuff from a guy that was stopping riding. Any how I brought them back to the house to day and took some pictures of my heads off the bike and the other heads too. I will call the pictures my head new head for reference. now I was think about porting the heads ( I am going to use the Webber IDE's on this one) so in theory at least they would be able to offer More power than I can get without doing loads to the engine (not my intention). But porting is good at any time I think , but which pair of heads. By the looks of them the bad ones are my old heads, the bike has been running rich until I stopped using it.

This the exhaust ports on 1 of my heads....



My head 2



My head 3



new head 1



At the least the new to me head looks better regarding the colour of the valves?
Any comments?

Can't tell much visually when everything is dirty. If I were doing up 2 heads from 4 I'd pull them all down to bare bones valves and seals out, clean everything well then inspect labeling everything to its corresponding head.
Check each valve is straight then grade them by wear and use the best, replace any that look questionable. Same thing with the heads inspecting the valve seats, flatness of gasket surface etc.
Guides are cheap enough so I'd replace them.
New valve seals too of course.
Since the new guides need fitting I'd have a reputable shop do it together with surfacing the head gasket surface.

This is the only way to do it "right" in my opinion.

Sounds good Dan, thanks.

Sounds like a good plan to me.

Nothing to add, :nea: keep up the good work! :good:

So as an addition to the head problem. I tried to turn the camshaft over on one of the original heads and the damn thing gets so far and then wont budge, so I need to strip that head right down to bits. So I decided to go with the heads I had as spares. I have a largish ultrasonic bath and if I take off the cams I can get a head in say up to bout half of the casting. I have carb cleaning US liquid which I used and hells bells what a difference, all the crap and crud comes off with just twenty minutes in the bath.

So I am resigned to the fact that the smart move here is to get the whole engine torn down and a total rebuild, at least then I know that the engine is squared away. Now I need to think about getting all the engine cleaned ready for paint. So there are lots of different ways to "blast" metal. I want to go the route of vapour Blasting as it seams to me to be the least harmful of all. nothing to get lodged in oil ways or small holes, water coolant ways etc. My only concern is the bearing surfaces, the cams do don't have "real" bearings just the ally surface of the cylinder head. The three bearing surfaces are machined to quite a smooth surface, so to stop possible damage I was thinking of using some sort of tape or fixture "wood" to protect the cam bearing surfaces.

Any comments on this ?
Thanks . :thanks:

okay you probably wont like this but you ask .....its my opinion with oldwing motors it a super good gamble to go with lower end motor and not discount it first ....only once have i been faced with a bad lower end on a motor ...some sat in junkyard 10 plus yrs outside...if it was me i would do up the outside of block and go with it .....taking a good lower end apart never get a better one using the same parts .....as far as cam goes and head arrangement ..switching to another head or just changing cam carrier may fix that up great and also might identify the bad part so you will know .....there many ways to ckean inside of motor without taking it apart and compromizing things and adding cost for no gain ...there is also ways with heads off motor to figure out how tight the lower end is ...if it me id go this route first ...you may find you need to go into lower end ..but i wouldnt ever go there first myself.....

Ditto that, these ole sleds lower end is tough . Ive seen plenty go way over 100k with minium maintaince . I got boys that break stuff for a passtime but even they couldnt kill tha Olewing and belive me they tried :BigGrin: .Thats why I personally like em

As far as the cam bearing surfaces. I'd probably use sections of dowel would in them and clamp the tops on to protect the bearing surfaces. Then blast them clean. I also agree to leave the bottom end alone. Yours is a low mileage motor and all should be fine in there.

+1 on leaving the longblock alone.

Okay Jo and ansimp. I can turn the bottom easy, just needs a bit of a clean inside the cylinders, I only need to clean the outside and repaint, but that is a problem need to get all the old crap off, I have aircraft paint stripper, so I guess it is going to have to be that for the bottom end.

Cylinder heads, I started on my own heads,, but they are super dirty, loads of carbon and I can't turn one of the cams all the way round as one is stuck. That's why I took a look at the spare pair I have, I striped off the cam and rockers to get it into my Ultrasonic Cleaner, takes about 3L. So I cleaned one side then flipped it over. So I think I will get the heads vapour blasted as that shouldn't do any damage, then I will be in a good place to paint the outside of the heads. Anyway will get back to this asap. Thanks all.

Hi guy's I have had it from the horses mouth today, went to a sort of Auto jumble boot sale here today (Sat), spoke to a stall holder there that does nothing else but blast stuff in varying degrees using a multitude of abrasive media. Even using vapour blasting it will kill the bottom end if left together. Only sure-fire way is everything out and just bare cases. So he will do the heads. as they are already striped so I could do the ultrasonic clean. So will get them too him before this month is out.

So I will be removing the valves, there is no wear on the cam faces, so just need to keep them in the right order and all parts off each valve with the valve together so they go back as an item. The rocker shafts I have been told can also be easily striped so I will do those too. They have assured me that the bearing faces for the cams will not be damaged in anyway.
:yes: So getting to the point where after paint I will be ready to reassemble.

Just out of interest as you know the frame has been powder coated as have the final drive and shaft drive covers, the brake callipers as well as other parts, do you think I should spray them with a clear lacquer? Just thinking maybe offer a little extra protection. :thanks: