Winter project - '82 Refresh

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canuckxxxx

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Well it is that time of year again where riding is over and fixing begins. :fiddle: This winter I've decided to take the whole bike apart and do a mostly cosmetic resto. To try and keep things organized I modded the work bench I built for the 1200 engine rebuild to make it taller and add some storage shelve under. Also it is now the same height as my workbench so nicer to stand and work at.

Here is the bench I built for the rebuild.
here is what it looks like now (gotta love those Costco boxes.)

As you can see I have already had it apart, painted the frame and gas tank and am starting to put it back together.

This is the paint I used for the frame and gas tank. Good old Rustoleum from Home Depot. Very tough paint.
 
Joe, I have to keep busy :builder: and I enjoy working on this old beast almost as much as riding it.

I've ordered some fork seals and they should be here by the end of the week. I was thinking about new fork bushings but when I took them apart the bushings still had their Teflon coating. I'm thinking new bushings aren't needed...what do you think? :headscratch:

 
Ernest, your post must have come at the same time I was answering Joe. Hopefuly we'll make the bike better than it was :help: and there will be lots of pictures along the way. :music:
 
I have the gas tank in now but I have a feeling that I am not done with it. There is very little clearance between tank and frame so things like wiring have to be in place before tank goes in. Had a heck of a time routing the main wiring harness near the front of the tank :head bang: . I finally got the tank in with the harness as in pic but there is nowhere to rout the tube from the gas overflow catcher around the filler neck. I would appreciate if someone could take a look and tell if I did it right. :beg: :help:
 
1 1/2" ABS plumbing pipe is a nice fit over the fork legs. :good: :yes: So I put the forks together and drove the upper bushings in very easily with the ABS. :builder: They are all together, including oil, and standing up in the corner of my work bench. When I get the seals I will drive them and put the fork legs on the bike.
 
So, I got my fork seals and put them in. :builder: Really easy with the 1 1/2" ABS pipe. Got the forks back together on bike. :good:
Had to hold off on putting the front wheel on because the seal, on the left side of the wheel, for the speedo drive is wore out so ordered a new seal. :laptop:

Taking a look at the headlight shell; it's pretty good on the outside but lots of rust inside. Is there a chemical way, such as vining are CLR that I can soak the headlight in that would get red of the rust?
 
Also would like an opinion on whether the wiring harness should go around the right side (as in photo) or left side othe steering stem. Looks like it would gain some length for connections in headlight if I go around left side. :headscratch:

 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198065#p198065:12tueupe said:
canuckxxxx » Tue Nov 28, 2017 1:17 pm[/url]":12tueupe]
Taking a look at the headlight shell; it's pretty good on the outside but lots of rust inside. Is there a chemical way, such as vining are CLR that I can soak the headlight in that would get red of the rust?

I might be following one or the other of the recommendations on this problem. Although rust is pretty much not an issue here in Arizona and on my 78, I did have to replace the Vetter headlight that was on it with a new unit. I didn't want to go with the 78/79 black shell so I bought a chrome one off eBay. Came from Ohio. The outside of the chrome is fine but the inside of the shell had a lot of surface rust. I sanded it down and painted it, but now I'm not sure if that was the best thing to do.
 
I think if you painted it with something like Rustoleum, which is made to go over rust, it wouldn't be a problem. You could even paint it with a brush to make sure you get paint everywhere and put on a thicker coat. Really, having surface rust on the inside of the shell isn't really a problem unless it is eating right through.

I just thought I would get rid of loose surface rust and paint the inside with a light colour like white so it would be easier to see the wiring in there.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=198088#p198088:3hfj05uq said:
Rednaxs60 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 6:00 pm[/url]":3hfj05uq]
I would choose the left side for the wiring harness.
Yes, I think the left side is correct. I have been looking at pictures of 1100's in the Gallery :read: and here is what I have found:

Here is a pristine '83 that was for sale on Craigs List about a year ago. The guy had many pictures of it from all angles and I save them all for future reference. Here is a closeup of the front and it shows the main wiring harness going over the top of the radiator on the lefts side and up to the headlight. Note that there is a "WIRING HARNESS GUIDE" at that point for the harness to rest on.

Note also that all the big connections at the headlight are on the outside of the headlight shell :shock: ...that doesn't seem right to me. :nea:

Here is a picture of the Wanderer :music2: and I think it shows the wiring harness following about the same route and there is that guide at the top/left side of the radiator.

After seeing that I went and looked at a box of junk that I got when I bought my '82. Look what I found :oops: ; the wiring harness guide and a little loop thing that the clutch cable goes through at the top of the left fork leg.
 
Ernest, I couldn't find that stuff at Canadian Tire or Home Depot so I bought this stuff.
Seems to work pretty good: squirt it on, spread around with brush and let it sit overnight. You're left with a dry residue which brushs off and no rust left.

So I painted the inside with some Tremclad rust paint that had.
 
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