Mild restoration on my Dads '75

So Dads had this Goldwing for as long as I can remember. Used it to commute to work mostly but I do remember a few times he went out just for giggles. He retired in the early '90s and moved to the mountains of VA. He soon got bored and got a part time job with a company car so the bike was parked in a shed. I've been after him to let me have it for a while and last time I was there we noticed the roof was caving in. He gave in and said he doubted he could hold it up anymore so I might as well take it. This is what it looked like.



The plan is to get it back on the road add a sidecar and give it back to him this spring. It would make a nice fathers day surprise I think.

I've been hitting ebay and finding most of the the stuff that needs replacing but so far everything looks solid.



It came apart nicely and I wasn't going to pull the motor or the swingarm but once I found out the gas tank wouldn't come out unless i did, well....



I've started cleaning and so far I'm pretty happy.





Are the rubber pieces supposed to slide off the intake runner like that?

Anybody have an extra one of these?



Here's another question, how hard should it be to run it through the gears sitting on the bench? I turned the motor with a wrench and had a hard time getting it in gear and now I can't seem to get it back out.

You are off to a good start, but that rubber should stay on the runner. How many are like that?

2 so far. I was hoping I could use some Hondabond to stick it back on there.

I have never heard of someone having any success with getting them to seal up again.

I just cut the rubber off one in preparation for an experiment.
The rubber is tough and so is the glue. I still haven't gotten any of the left over rubber off the intake horn.

Clutches sometimes stick after years of sitting so you may need to pull the clutch apart and separate the plates. No the rubber pieces should not come off the intake horns.

gee lots of work here but its look ok to me ....it has a early and i think the best fork brace on the from forks .. looks like mostly cleaning for awhile

Your off to a fine start. You might just pick up some new/used runners on epay, seen them for as little as 15 for a set and less corrosion. ..It`s up to you though, if you feel the rubber is strong and isnt cracking and you have faith in the glue then go for it.
Looks like you have the aftermarket Lester wheels too :good:
Also, I use duct tape to cover the rubber boot with when polishing.

Ok so my parts list is growing by the day. Some of it I figure I can wait on and replace later, some of them are going to be a deal breaker. Rust has worked is way into and onto almost every part I've touched. There will be more than one formerly chrome now painted part on here and as long as I can keep it to a minimum I'm ok with it. One of the big ones I don't want to paint is the front fender. It'll clean up but if I ever slow down it's going to get ugly fast.


As it stands now most of the headlight bucket and mounts will be black.

The forks are also affected but I think they will be ok for now. I'm planning on cleaning them up and replacing the fork seals.



Like Joe said lots of cleaning for now.





I found this when I pulled the coils.



Is that part of the Dyna conversion?

So before I hit ebay I figured I'd ask here if anybody wants to get rid of some parts. The must have parts so far are left exhaust header (rotted) Rear caliper and master cylinder (seized). Or I'd gladly take suggestions on how to get the pistons moving again. :thanks: :salute:

Chrome is over rated!

rear master may still move. often it's the pedal pivot that is bound up. I'd try cleaning that up first. Caliper will often push out the piston if you open the bleeder and pump in grease with a grease gun attached to the bleeder. Those don't look like dyna coils to me. Forks look pretty iffy but if they aren't pitted may still be serviceable.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138692#p138692:3dvb6ecn said:

HockeyFan » Sun Jan 04, 2015 4:10 pm[/url]":3dvb6ecn]
Rust has worked is way into and onto almost every part I've touched.

Click to expand...

Well....either get some gloves, or quit touching stuff!! :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: :smilie_happy:
sorry...you walked yerself right into that one.... :hihihi:
I think those forks might be a problem. They might clean up well enough to survive for a while, but from the looks of it, they'll prolly start leaking eventually. Definitely worth a shot to try them first. :good:

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138703#p138703:1q679q0a said:

slabghost » Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:26 pm[/url]":1q679q0a]
rear master may still move. often it's the pedal pivot that is bound up. I'd try cleaning that up first. Caliper will often push out the piston if you open the bleeder and pump in grease with a grease gun attached to the bleeder. Those don't look like dyna coils to me. Forks look pretty iffy but if they aren't pitted may still be serviceable.

Click to expand...

The pivot was stuck. So was the piston in the master cylinder and the caliper. Been soaking them in PB blaster and hitting them with 130 psi of air and they haven't moved. I'll try the grease trick on the caliper next.

AApple":1q679q0a said:

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138692#p138692:1q679q0a said:

HockeyFan » Sun Jan 04, 2015 4:10 pm[/url]":1q679q0a]
Rust has worked is way into and onto almost every part I've touched.

Click to expand...

Well....either get some gloves, or quit touching stuff!! :smilie_happy: :mrgreen: :smilie_happy:
sorry...you walked yerself right into that one.... :hihihi:
I think those forks might be a problem. They might clean up well enough to survive for a while, but from the looks of it, they'll prolly start leaking eventually. Definitely worth a shot to try them first. :good:

Click to expand...

The pitting seems to be above where the seals should reach so I hope it holds for a while. Just buying some time at this point though.

Discovered something odd while cleaning the motor tonight.



Shouldn't that number match this one?



I'm trying to keep the work I'm doing on the down low as far as my Dad goes so I haven't called him to ask many questions about stuff like this. I know he had this bike in the early '80s but I'm not sure how much earlier he bought it. Seems odd that it would have had a motor swap done so early.

If honda did gw"s like they did the 750's,then no

those numbers never match up. a fellow here has several types of old Hondas. He says he has never seen frame and engine nos on Hondas match.
the rust seems to be the biggest issue with that one.. opcorn:

Once upon a time, I had a bookmark for a website that you could tell if the motor was the right year for the frame because they never match each other. I had to format my hard drive and lost it.

Hondachoppers.com does that for the sohc engines,not sure about wings

heres a link to a chart with engine numbers, vin numbers etc explained for the GL.
https://www.randakksblog.com/gl1000-vin- ... #more-1520

Thanks for the link. Looks like everything is original as far as the motor and drivetrain go.