Atila the Hun, 84 GL1200 disguised as a GL 1000

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173537#p173537:hswfelxq said:

joedrum » Wed May 18, 2016 5:37 am[/url]":hswfelxq]
hmmmm great stuff mike...glad things are getting better for you....love the jig

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+1 :good:

A little more progress on Atila, getting the tubes filled and smoothed on the neck rake so the frame can be painted, got the triple trees painted, the wiring harness is completed, the left and right hand controls have been reconditioned and painted, the new handle bars I think will look pretty cool. The engine has been completed and painted for some time. The list is getting shorter with paint work and assembly being the majority of work left to be done. There is a lot of painting to be done though. Most likely all of the light colored factory grey will be replaced with the Dupli-Color, darker Cast Iron like the engine and the triple trees have been done, including the rear drive and maybe the shiny parts of the wheels for a black and cast iron color scheme.

Looking good!

What paint did you use on the hand controls?

I told you wrong Gerry, I picked up the wrong can, it was Dupli-Color but it was the DE 1613 Gloss Black Engine paint I used on the hand controls. I guess I had a brain fart, I used the engine paint because of the possibility of brake fluid leakage. Sorry for the confusion. On the metal pulls I used the Cast Iron Dupli Color Engine paint on them.

looks great mike ...

It's a lot of work restoring all these areas of a bike isn't it. Looking good and worth it in the end.

Yes it is, a very fulfilling and satisfying hobby. Probably 80% of the work is never seen by anyone except the one doing the restoring but it's a great feeling when you climb aboard and take off knowing your machine from one end to the other.

Glad to see you are back at it Mike, looking good. :good:

Looks great!

Sweet looking so far..... opcorn:

Finished filling & smoothing the tubes, primed and painted the frame. Used Dupli-Color DE-1613 Engine Black. Pleased with the outcome, can hardly tell where the cuts were made, sectioned and welded to rake the neck 6 degrees. Getting the fuel tank in shape is next on the list.

Looks great from here!

:good: :good:

No offense intended Mike but some of the weld looks crappy like mine. Are you sure they are strong?

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179330#p179330:1sfeh9rb said:

dan filipi » Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:37 am[/url]":1sfeh9rb]
No offense intended Mike but some of the weld looks crappy like mine. Are you sure they are strong?

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I am okay with the welds, just curious how you use the side stand on a trike? :smilie_happy:

No offense taken , which welds Dan, the ones directly from the tubes to sides of neck are factory. The main weld at the bottom of the throat of the neck is a layered weld joint from the inside out so I think it should be strong.

I don't know Tony, if anybody needed a side stand for a trike it would be me with my luck! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: Right now I don't know which direction this build is going, seems to be changing as my health dictates !!!

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179334#p179334:1ltu65qx said:

backlander » 26 minutes ago[/url]":1ltu65qx]
No offense taken , which welds Dan, the ones directly from the tubes to sides of neck are factory. The main weld at the bottom of the throat of the neck is a layered weld joint from the inside out so I think it should be strong.

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Surprised those factory welds look like that...ok.

ive never done anything like the first thoughts were on something ....looks great mike

The time has arrived for assembly to begin on Atila as I have finished construction of the work table. I started assembly last night and in this order.
1. Rear master assembly with front and rear brake lines. Not bolted in to allow movement making it easier to insert fuel tank.
2. Fuel tank.
3. Flat plate below coils that holds brake and clutch lines.
4. Ignition coils.
5. Complete Main wiring harness.
6. Bolt rear master cylinder to frame and attach brake rod pivot pin